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#1629349 08/13/06 02:06 PM
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I have a 98 SVT w/88k. I've been having problems starting it after sitting for a week or more , I dont drive it often enough. It will start , but won't keep running without giveing it gas the whole time . The first time this happened a mechanic said it was carbon build up ,and I needed to run it hard to burn it out . I think it is something eles , because I'll run it hard for a little bit , then it will idle fine untill I want to drive it again next week . Has anyone had this experince , or can anyone help ???
Thanks ,Jason quiksvt@hotmail.com

#1629350 08/13/06 02:31 PM
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You probably need a good oil tune up. Start with the IAC valve. Then air filter, clean MAF, TB, Spark plugs, sp wires, UIM/LIM rebuild.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1629351 08/13/06 07:07 PM
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Start by cleaning the IAC as Tony suggested. Clean the throttle body at the same time. You probably have a sticking IAC (idle air control). Sometimes they don't respond to cleaning and need to be replaced.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited
#1629352 08/13/06 10:29 PM
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How much does a IAC cost and where is a good spot to find one ???

#1629353 08/13/06 11:03 PM
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Originally posted by f-rice:
How much does a IAC cost and where is a good spot to find one ???



About $65, www.teamfordparts.com


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1629354 08/13/06 11:15 PM
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by f-rice:
How much does a IAC cost and where is a good spot to find one ???



About $65, www.teamfordparts.com



Have you done this before ? is it a hard job ?

#1629355 08/14/06 12:48 AM
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2 bolts. Need a gasket also. It is easier if you remove the EVR solenoid valve next to it. Gives you more space (for your left hand) to get to the bottom bolt.
IAC change in UIM/LIM rebuild

Edit. Or per Ford CD

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.

4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.

5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.

6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.

8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.

9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).

10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.

Installation

1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.

Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.

2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12

4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).

Last edited by Tony2005; 08/14/06 01:35 AM.

"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1629356 08/15/06 02:04 AM
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
2 bolts. Need a gasket also. It is easier if you remove the EVR solenoid valve next to it. Gives you more space (for your left hand) to get to the bottom bolt.
IAC change in UIM/LIM rebuild

Edit. Or per Ford CD

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve

Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.

4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.

5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.

6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.

8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.

9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).

10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.

Installation

1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.

Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.

2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12

4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).



Thanks this will help alot ,Where in VA are you ??

#1629357 08/15/06 02:08 AM
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Originally posted by f-rice:
..Thanks this will help alot ,Where in VA are you ??



Falls Church


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1629358 08/15/06 09:57 PM
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by f-rice:
..Thanks this will help alot ,Where in VA are you ??



Falls Church



I build houses in that area ,we are starting 2 in Vienna this month .


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