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Originally posted by stilov:
has anyone used the wool pad for compounding?
what were the results?




wool + motion = static electricity which attracts a lot of dust, and is just going to annoy you.


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Originally posted by stilov:
has anyone used the wool pad for compounding?
what were the results?




It's going to cut and swirl like a MOFO, especially on black. But, as long as you're going to follow through with the correct pads and compounds and/or polishes.... that won't be a problem.


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I want it to cut...my paint is DULL!!! Then I was going to follow through.


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Originally posted by m4gician:
wool + motion = static electricity and is just going to annoy you.






'99 Sport TropicGreen,Duratec, SVT exhaust, Brembo rotors, Ceramic pads, K&N filters(oil & air), Alpine CDM7874, Polk DB570 speakers front and rear. Fog light mod. 50% Formula One tint.
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im told those are just fine...

But there is nothing like a Porter Cable... Bill (starjammir) just got one and did me the honors of using it on my rolla for the first tim e. He clay barred my trunk lid then porter cabled it with I dont know what compound. My trunk almost instantly was restored to showroom finnish.


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Originally posted by AliasJerkââ??¢:
im told those are just fine...

But there is nothing like a Porter Cable... Bill (starjammir) just got one and did me the honors of using it on my rolla for the first tim e. He clay barred my trunk lid then porter cabled it with I dont know what compound. My trunk almost instantly was restored to showroom finnish.



It wasnt perfect but just a few seconds of PCing it, it was 50x better than it was before


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okay and for the "porter cable challenged" is a random orbit adequate? Will similar results be produced from it?


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Well, I decided to give mine a shot.

I did not go for the full cut 'n buff, thank god. The 8" pad on mine is far too big to be useful, at least on this car. It cant get into all the 'dips' this car has, such as the low areas on the hood, the lower side panels, etc. etc. Larger, flat areas are OK, but I wouldnt try to polish with it for the already stated reason.

I used it to apply wax, and I would give its performance an OK at best. Erring on the side of caution, I kept plenty of wax on the pad (paranoid as hell using this thing). I will say it makes quick work of applying too much wax, LOL. I used it on the hood, roof, top of the trunk, and upper portion of the doors. All the more curvy or contoured areas were still done by hand. I removed everything by hand as well, though that isnt the buffers fault, the terry cloth pads I bought for wax removal were quickly rendered ineffective by the amount of wax on the car, hence me having to break out the extra towels and doing it by hand.

A 4" pad with a more manuverable unit is best.

I will say my shoulders were less tired than usual. And with the subframe busted and my car just sitting outside, at least it has a nice coat of wax. Car still looks great after sitting in 2 days worth of rain!

Pete, I wish you were just local and could do the full polish for me. I will end up buying a PC, but honestly Im a bit apprehensive about doing a full polish. I would hate myself forever if I jacked the paint. It needs it, though, so I guess Ill eventually give it a shot. Id rather try myself than let some local yahoo go nuts with a power buffer.


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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
Well, I decided to give mine a shot.

I did not go for the full cut 'n buff, thank god. The 8" pad on mine is far too big to be useful, at least on this car. It cant get into all the 'dips' this car has, such as the low areas on the hood, the lower side panels, etc. etc. Larger, flat areas are OK, but I wouldnt try to polish with it for the already stated reason.

I used it to apply wax, and I would give its performance an OK at best. Erring on the side of caution, I kept plenty of wax on the pad (paranoid as hell using this thing). I will say it makes quick work of applying too much wax, LOL. I used it on the hood, roof, top of the trunk, and upper portion of the doors. All the more curvy or contoured areas were still done by hand. I removed everything by hand as well, though that isnt the buffers fault, the terry cloth pads I bought for wax removal were quickly rendered ineffective by the amount of wax on the car, hence me having to break out the extra towels and doing it by hand.

A 4" pad with a more manuverable unit is best.

I will say my shoulders were less tired than usual. And with the subframe busted and my car just sitting outside, at least it has a nice coat of wax. Car still looks great after sitting in 2 days worth of rain!

Pete, I wish you were just local and could do the full polish for me. I will end up buying a PC, but honestly Im a bit apprehensive about doing a full polish. I would hate myself forever if I jacked the paint. It needs it, though, so I guess Ill eventually give it a shot. Id rather try myself than let some local yahoo go nuts with a power buffer.




when buffing it out, use a MICRO FIBRE pad, and yes after a panel or so, you'll need to toss this in the wash. The good thing is that if it isn't completely buffed, all the HARDEND or hazed wax that will be a struggle by hand is now just a small annoyance and you've done pretty much all the hard work. Normall after using a random orbit you need to hand buff afterwards to get the small pieces of wax left on. But yes you did everything right.


1998 Mercury Mystique LS - Looking for SVT EXHAUST, SVT Rear bumper (silver frost) and ANY rocker mouldings (side skirts)
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