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98 SVT EO - 120,000 (60,000 on "new" engine)
Driving to work yesterday. I noticed my electrical warning light was on, it would flicker and go off above 2000 rpm. Never happened before (Replaced coil bout 3000 miles ago). No CEL, so I figure I'll just watch it.
10 miles later at 60 on I-5, my electrical warning light stays on constantly. Then, all of a sudden, my ABS light comes on...I'm like...crap. 30 seconds later my Airbag Warning light comes on, at the same time I notice my tach has quit working, engine still running...I bumped the gas to be sure. I'm now turning around to try and get home on (on I-5..fun). Before I could find an illegal turn around, my stereo is now trying to turn off and on repeatedly...crap, complete electrical failure.
I slow down, turn around and realize my engine is in limp mode, I can't go faster than 20 or so. Driving on the shoulder begging to make it to the next off-ramp, smell burning oil, car starts chugging, shut off engine immediately, open hood, blue/white smoke...not a lot but it is definelty burning oil.
Wait 4 hours for tow truck, back to work, get home, inspect, no oil under car or on engine, (I suspected maybe blow head gasgets) voltage is low (11.65) attempt to start car (wtf) car starts no problem, no warning lights...however it won't idle under 3000rpm, back in into the garage, done for the night.
Today I used my friends code reader, the only codes are P1131 (Lack of HO2S11 Switches - Sensor indicates Lean) & P1151 (Lack of HO2S21 Switches - Sensor indicates Lean) I'm thinking the limp mode left an excess of oil/gas in engine and it was burning it out, i dunno.
So...what do you guys think?
- Alternator/voltage reg???
- ECU??
??
Help
thanks, Christian
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If "electrical warning light" was the Battery/Charge light, then test the battery and alternator.
If the light was actually the oil light, then ....... not a good thing.
Edit.
Charge the battery well and then test battery and alternator. Your symptoms could be a weak or dying battery (probably due to a bad alternator).
Battery test. Engine off, headlights on for one minute. Voltage across battery terminals should be 12 to 12.5.
Alternator test. Engine running, voltage across battery terminals should be 14 to 14.5.
Change the oil and filter and check the consistency of the oil.
Duratecs have few headgasket issues but if you suspect headgasket issues....do the el cheapo headgasket test.
Fill coolant to the brim on recovery tank (leave cap off). Remove all spark plug wires. Remove all but one spark plug and have someone crank the engine. If the coolant bubbles over, there is leak from that portion of the engine (or cylinder). If not, go to the next cylinder, and then the next.... Note, it could be more than one area or more than one cylinder.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by rainshdw:
98 SVT EO - 120,000 (60,000 on "new" engine)
Driving to work yesterday. I noticed my electrical warning light was on, it would flicker and go off above 2000 rpm. Never happened before (Replaced coil bout 3000 miles ago). No CEL, so I figure I'll just watch it.
10 miles later at 60 on I-5, my electrical warning light stays on constantly. Then, all of a sudden, my ABS light comes on...I'm like...crap. 30 seconds later my Airbag Warning light comes on, at the same time I notice my tach has quit working, engine still running...I bumped the gas to be sure. I'm now turning around to try and get home on (on I-5..fun). Before I could find an illegal turn around, my stereo is now trying to turn off and on repeatedly...crap, complete electrical failure.
I slow down, turn around and realize my engine is in limp mode, I can't go faster than 20 or so. Driving on the shoulder begging to make it to the next off-ramp, smell burning oil, car starts chugging, shut off engine immediately, open hood, blue/white smoke...not a lot but it is definelty burning oil.
Wait 4 hours for tow truck, back to work, get home, inspect, no oil under car or on engine, (I suspected maybe blow head gasgets) voltage is low (11.65) attempt to start car (wtf) car starts no problem, no warning lights...however it won't idle under 3000rpm, back in into the garage, done for the night.
Today I used my friends code reader, the only codes are P1131 (Lack of HO2S11 Switches - Sensor indicates Lean) & P1151 (Lack of HO2S21 Switches - Sensor indicates Lean) I'm thinking the limp mode left an excess of oil/gas in engine and it was burning it out, i dunno.
So...what do you guys think?
- Alternator/voltage reg???
- ECU??
??
Help
thanks, Christian
For one, your "electrical warning light" is probably the battery light, in which case when that comes on it means your charging system is malfunctioning. Usualy this is because of a faulty alternator. Why you continued driving after problems started showing up I dont quite know... I would suggest you replace that alternator.
98 Corolla LE 1.8L DOHC 1ZZFE
TEIN H.Tech Springs
Tokico HP series Struts
Short ram air intake
Tsudo Axel Back Exhaust
... if a jelly fish stung me.. would you pee on the wound?
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oh yeah, one more thing. Before all of this happened, before the coil replacement, I have a...a sound. Pretty much it like a card hitting the spokes on a bicycle wheel while moving sound, very metallic and tingy. This sound happens mainly above 3000rpm all the way to redline, and upon decelerlation also. Very prevalent from the drivers side, inside to car. Head in engine, you can't hear it at all. Doesn't seem to effect performance. My LFD heard it, but has no idea what it is, called FORD, they said it was something like the oil seals near/around the clutch area or something. (can't remember, months ago)
anyway, I just thought this may have bearing on my last post, might.
C
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Originally posted by rainshdw:
oh yeah, one more thing. Before all of this happened, before the coil replacement, I have a...a sound. Pretty much it like a card hitting the spokes on a bicycle wheel while moving sound, very metallic and tingy. This sound happens mainly above 3000rpm all the way to redline, and upon decelerlation also. Very prevalent from the drivers side, inside to car. ...
This sounds really bad. Spun rod bearing? What is the oil level on the dipstick now?
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1015756&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1
Last edited by Tony2005; 08/06/06 03:56 AM.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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I meant battery light...sorry  why did I feep driving...I'm dumb.
btw, the oil was clean, no metal shavings and the Battery is a 6 month old yellow top, pretty sure its good, but ya never know I guess.
No oil pressure light...ever
Thanks guys!
C
Last edited by rainshdw; 08/06/06 03:56 AM.
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Originally posted by rainshdw:
oh yeah, one more thing. Before all of this happened, before the coil replacement, I have a...a sound. Pretty much it like a card hitting the spokes on a bicycle wheel while moving sound, very metallic and tingy. This sound happens mainly above 3000rpm all the way to redline, and upon decelerlation also. Very prevalent from the drivers side, inside to car. Head in engine, you can't hear it at all. Doesn't seem to effect performance. My LFD heard it, but has no idea what it is, called FORD, they said it was something like the oil seals near/around the clutch area or something. (can't remember, months ago)
anyway, I just thought this may have bearing on my last post, might.
C
Main cat?
98 Corolla LE 1.8L DOHC 1ZZFE
TEIN H.Tech Springs
Tokico HP series Struts
Short ram air intake
Tsudo Axel Back Exhaust
... if a jelly fish stung me.. would you pee on the wound?
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Funny things happen when voltages get flakey.
The electrical warning light is a charging system warning light. Although it could be just a battery with flakey internal connections, it is more likely to be an alternator problem.
Before you can get an accurate alternator test, you must qualify the battery. Get it checked out, and replace it if needed. Once you have a known good battery check for voltage up about 14.5 volts with the engine running at about 2000 RPM with no electrical accessories on.
Before replacing the alternator, check out the alternator wiring, especially the mega fuse between the battery and the alternator.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Alias...Dunno, kinda thought that too. I just read that spun bearings post, same sound except my oil pressure light has NEVER (Knock, knock) came on. The sound is definelty heard on the drivers side only, you can barely hear it on the pass side.
Oh, and when I start the car in the am (cold engine) there is loud intermittent chirrping/metallic noises coming from underneath the car...last's about 3-4 min until it warms up if let sitting at idle. Sounds like its coming from the front of the exhaust system, near the engine...like a loose heat shield or something, of course I can't find it. Been there for over a year. Probably should have mentioned that huh.
C
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by rainshdw:
oh yeah, one more thing. Before all of this happened, before the coil replacement, I have a...a sound. Pretty much it like a card hitting the spokes on a bicycle wheel while moving sound, very metallic and tingy. This sound happens mainly above 3000rpm all the way to redline, and upon decelerlation also. Very prevalent from the drivers side, inside to car. ...
This sounds really bad. Spun rod bearing? What is the oil level on the dipstick now?
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1015756&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1
Tony, My oil level is 1/4 over full...as usual. I have already replaced 1 engine @ 50,000 for oil starvation.
I charged my battery last night, started it up today - Voltage across terminals was 12.44, running, same voltage when off.
Pretty sure its my alternator. Funny thing though, when I started it, it hung at 3000 for about 5 seconds before falling to idle. Tried it twice, same result. What is that about? (I know the CSVT has throttle hang issues, mine has done it before but only under acc/decleration).
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