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I have a question on what an O2 sensor must read. I have bank 1 front sensor staying at .227 never really moving more than 5 percent. The bank 2 front sensor is going up and down and I know it suppose to bounce alot so from this I am guessing I have bad O2 sensor now the big question is the downstream O2 which were eliminated on my turbo kit can they be used in place of my upstream hardwiring them into the other plug
I went all over looking for an O2 and noone had them and the one who could geet them by tomorrow price is 90 bucks. So if the sensors are the same then I will use downstream that I have extra. The only noticable difference is the wires are a little heavier guage and the end of the O2 on the downstream is a little fatter but the probe etc are identical. I was just wondering if the electrical properties are the same betweent the two. SO that the computer does not get the wrong values If I do so. I also bought the universal bousch O2 for 60 bucks if I can't use the downstream's ones
And My long term fuel trims are 1.2 so therefore I must be running 20 percent richer on 2000rpm and my Short term or .850 or more. I am trying to get it more drivable so I can get some good data for Keith to give me a new base line program so I can head to the Dyno soon.
99 SVT #198 blk/blue
Spec 3/quaife/stage 2 shafts
T3/T4 fully built 3.0
ported heads
water injec./intercooled
13.2 @ 107 mph
clifford alarm and turbo timer
koni struts H&R springs
intercooler for sale
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A properly functioning oxygen sensor in a properly running engine should be rapidly switching from .1 volts to .9 volts.
Although a downstream oxygen sensor might work in the upstream hole, it may not be ideal. It is designed for a different function.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Originally posted by BurritaSVT:
I have a question on what an O2 sensor must read. I have bank 1 front sensor staying at .227 never really moving more than 5 percent. The bank 2 front sensor is going up and down and I know it suppose to bounce alot so from this I am guessing I have bad O2 sensor now the big question is the downstream O2 which were eliminated on my turbo kit can they be used in place of my upstream hardwiring them into the other plug
I went all over looking for an O2 and noone had them and the one who could geet them by tomorrow price is 90 bucks. So if the sensors are the same then I will use downstream that I have extra. The only noticable difference is the wires are a little heavier guage and the end of the O2 on the downstream is a little fatter but the probe etc are identical. I was just wondering if the electrical properties are the same betweent the two. SO that the computer does not get the wrong values If I do so. I also bought the universal bousch O2 for 60 bucks if I can't use the downstream's ones
And My long term fuel trims are 1.2 so therefore I must be running 20 percent richer on 2000rpm and my Short term or .850 or more. I am trying to get it more drivable so I can get some good data for Keith to give me a new base line program so I can head to the Dyno soon.
Don't use the downstream O2s.
Just order the correct sensor, or use the Bosch sensor.
Also, the sensors should bounce from rich to lean and back and if you graph the signal it will look like a sine wave.
If your O2 sensor voltage is .2v and staying close to it, it would be signifying a lean condition. It may be bad as you already suggest. Also, I've noticed that the O2 sensors on the turbo vehicles are a little more likely to go bad, especially if you are running really hot EGTs. I had two go bad on my old pipes but to be fair neither one was brand new when I stuck it in.
Your fuel trims are supposed to be in percent so I don't know if that is 1.2% or +20% over. 0.85% or -15% under. Short terms aren't a big deal though. The long term trims are where it is at. You must replace the O2, clear the pcm and then drive it around to see what happens.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Thanks Tom I guess I will not be a cheap ass and put on the universal bosch O2. You right I did run 1500 to 1600 degrees on my last motor a no-no and melted some pistons. SO I guess the O2 substained too much heat. Well I am going change it and install my intake sensor for now.
I also will show a pic later of my new intercooler in postion under the hood. If I can get this to work we could have an intercooler for less then 200 bucks work for us.
99 SVT #198 blk/blue
Spec 3/quaife/stage 2 shafts
T3/T4 fully built 3.0
ported heads
water injec./intercooled
13.2 @ 107 mph
clifford alarm and turbo timer
koni struts H&R springs
intercooler for sale
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Cool. Good luck with that.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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well I still have code 1131 so that verifys the sensor was still good  there went 70 bucks down the drain. I know it is not vacuum leak because the other bank would do the same it must be a faulty wire or plug somewhere. I verified with key on I had 12 volts on heater wire the other one is grounded and the siganl wire matches the bank 2 resistance. I will switch the harness plug to the rear since the new O2 came with a long wire so if the bank 2 reads then I know the O2 sensor is fuctioning right on bank 1. Then I will pull the pcm and do leak checks between wire and resistance check on wires. If that checks then the PCM is bad or I have a injector faulty.
99 SVT #198 blk/blue
Spec 3/quaife/stage 2 shafts
T3/T4 fully built 3.0
ported heads
water injec./intercooled
13.2 @ 107 mph
clifford alarm and turbo timer
koni struts H&R springs
intercooler for sale
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Posts: 611
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Is it possible you do have an air leak and the sensor in the front isn't picking it up (bad) but the rear sensor is? It doesn't sound like that is the problem but, if you haven't already try swapping the front and rear sensors around. I don't know if swaping the plugs is a good idea if you plan on starting the car. It wouldn't be adjusting the banks correctly. A few seconds of running probably wouldn't hurt it though.
1999 3.0L Cougar: 220fwhp and 200tq
2003 VW Passat W8 with 4 Motion AWD
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/300644
PM for intrest in 3L SVT Contours, 3L swaps into your current car, Prepped 3L engines, or anything 3L related.
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You could have a leak below the upper intake manifold. Maybe a bad injector O-ring or lIM gaskets on one or two runners. It is hard to say.
If you have one bank showing lean that means that your system is dumping as much fuel as it can and exceeded the parameters for the LTFT on that bank.
The other wa to look at it is that the computer is "seeing" less air than it is really getting for its calculations.
If the O2 sensor and wiring is good on both banks, and one bank is good then there MUST be a problem with either an injector or a vacuum leak.
If one injector is failing, then the overall bank would be lean. You should have a misfire on that one cylinder in that case.
Sounds like you have some more diagnostic work to do.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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