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Ok, figured out the random misfire problem!
This little sensor with the part number F6AF-18801-AA that has 1 wire going to it (that's covered in a loom) with a little metal bracket with a hole in it was dangling near the coil pack...
Appears that the bracket is secured with the passeneger-side front bolt of the coil pack (and also gets it's ground signal that way).
So now the car runs nice and smooth, but I still need an IAC valve since mine is shot from the B12 cleaning.
After that, car should run perfect!
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Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:
..This little sensor with the part number F6AF-18801-AA that has 1 wire going to it (that's covered in a loom) with a little metal bracket with a hole in it was dangling near the coil pack...
Appears that the bracket is secured with the passeneger-side front bolt of the coil pack (and also gets it's ground signal that way).
..
Radio capacitor.
"TAKE NOTE that there are two seperate items that were also secure by two of those four bolts.. the radio noise suppressor is on one side (small grey-ish plastic clip with a metal braket on it) and a ground strap on the other... REMEMBER THIS.." Ray (from Alternator R and R)
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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What does this capacitor do?
Is it blocking the ignition system from creating harmful radio waves, or is it blocking harmful radio waves from interfering with the radio system?
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The high idle is due to the TPS sensor going bad. You might have to pick a new one up. most of the time if between shifts it holds rvs for more than 3 seconds it is the tps. On my svt it would hold a rev for like 6 secs i was like wtf. Also on idle it would idle high and sit at a high idle for ever. pretty much 
I reject your reality and substitute my own.
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Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:
What does this capacitor do?
Is it blocking the ignition system from creating harmful radio waves, or is it blocking harmful radio waves from interfering with the radio system?
It is supposed to block interference to the radio caused by "waves" from the ignition coil. In your case, the ground was attached to the same bolt and leaving the Radio Ignition Interference Capacitor (RIIC) out meant no ground for the ignition coil.
If you look at this diagram from Autozone and the description from Ray's Alternator how-to, the ground and RIIC are supposed to be in two different bolts. So technically, if the ground is on and the RIIC is not on, the car should start. You will just have the radio interference which sounds like a "thud, thud, thud,....".
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/c4/02/0900823d801bc402.jsp
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by Rickson:
The high idle is due to the TPS sensor going bad. You might have to pick a new one up.
most of the time if between shifts it holds rvs for more than 3 seconds it is the tps. On my svt it would hold a rev for like 6 secs i was like wtf.
Also on idle it would idle high and sit at a high idle for ever. pretty much
Symptoms are identical to mine with the IAC plugged in. Note I've been having to do this for a while now with a vacuum leak and I was assuming the IAC being gummed up. Now the B12 ate my IAC because it's worse than before (but at least I got rid of my vacuum leak!)
However, If I unplug the IAC, no more high revs, but I have to 2 foot it at a stop (or if I'm in gear, have to tilt my foot a bit on the brake pedal).
Car runs perfect except the idle issue, which I will make an educated guess is the IAC.
Originally posted by Tony2005:
If you look at this diagram from Autozone and the description from Ray's Alternator how-to, the ground and RIIC are supposed to be in two different bolts. So technically, if the ground is on and the RIIC is not on, the car should start.
I remembered to put the ground strap on, but not the RIIC since it had fallen behind where I couldn't see it.
They're on different bolts, the ground strap is on the driver side front bolt, the RIIC on the passenger side front bolt.
Last edited by Big Daddy Kane; 08/06/06 11:45 PM.
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Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:
...Originally posted by Tony2005:
If you look at this diagram from Autozone and the description from Ray's Alternator how-to, the ground and RIIC are supposed to be in two different bolts. So technically, if the ground is on and the RIIC is not on, the car should start.
I remembered to put the ground strap on, but not the RIIC since it had fallen behind where I couldn't see it.
They're on different bolts, the ground strap is on the driver side front bolt, the RIIC on the passenger side front bolt.
Hmmm....then maybe I was wrong about the "waves" from the ignition causing problems with the radio. Maybe it it the magnetic "waves" from the alternator causing interference to the ignition (and radio)? I have always remembered since young that if you had issues with the radio reception in the car (if it is not a problem with the antenna), to first change the "filter capacitor" for the radio. Maybe some expert RF CEGer can chime in with their thoughts.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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All I know is that noise in a stereo is ignition noise...
I didn't notice any noise in the radio while it was like that, so I think you may be right about it blocking harmful interference TO the ignition system...
I need new wires (the Magnecores are getting pretty dirty, and have at least 30,000 miles on them)... but I'm waiting for that Accel coil to come out on SP and change it all at once.
Oh, and my spark plugs... they looked very normal when I pulled them out.
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