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Yes it will warp and could rip the mounting plates on the subframe with a 21mm. If the subframe show more sign of age, there is a greater risk. Even the brackets (usally go first) I do only street.
In my case even after beefing up the subframe, it still wanted to pull the brackets out (the subframe wasn't getting damaged after it was beefed) but even with new brackets to link the swaybar to the subframe, it was pulling the tab side out.
Maybe I got a bad batch of bushings, but when I had the 21MM in it seemed the bushing was too large for the bracket. And also it was so tight around the swaybar that it would always push the grease out, it was always bad to where the bar wouldn't pivot up and down by hand, until after a regrease. Finally I stepped down to 19MM, stock was 17mm.
If you want to run 21MM I would think about getting ahold of bradness and talking about the 4bolt swaybar to subframe mounts. You could be looking at 200-300 shipped but well worth it. That is if he can find a good one in the junkyard for ya.
There seems though people have different results. So think anything over first.
I should say, try it first, if you have problems then you know you have to do more work.
Last edited by jd2-98s; 07/26/06 09:56 PM.
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
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I fabricated my first reinforced subframe myself before there was good information on how to do it (I made it WAY to beefy) - the next time I bought one from a group buy. BAT has offered a new reinforced subframe for some time now, but at nearly $400 it is pricey, most of which is the cost of the new Ford part. BAT Reinforced Subframe Your best choice is to have your existing subframe welded locally - assuming it is not tore up. Your worst choice is to do nothing. With a 21mm bar you will tear the brackets loose regardless of how gentle you drive. Eventually you will have a wheel hit a rut or an unexpected pothole or something to stress the brackets. It doesn't take driving at the limit to cause damage - just driving on the street will eventually do it.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Mine lasted awhile without upgrading them. Finally it gave way well pulling into a uneven parking lot. Than I heard a sudden "thud" sound. Looked under after I parked and didnt see anything because it was now even (when parked). Drove a little more and you hear the bar "clanking" around. It could get you stuck somewhere if it gives way. It did to me. I was 2 hours away from home.
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You can repair the tabs with the frame on the car,you can't reinforce them on the car.
2000 Silver SVT
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Ya know what...it's sounding like I shouldn't be installing this 21mm bar without re-inforcing...most are saying that it will eventually break away...am I wrong?
I don't want to re-inforce anything...if I have to do that...I'd rather just put some urethane bushings on my old sway bar and call it a day.
Please let me know...
Rob
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I believe my current SE sway bar is 18mm...so I guess it'll do.
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Hey guys,
How bout the 19mm sway bar? Is it worth upgrading my 18mm SE sway bar to the BAT 19mm? Is it worth it, will I notice a difference?
Will the frame/mounts still need re-inforcing?
Rob
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Originally posted by Rob___:
Hey guys,
How bout the 19mm sway bar? Is it worth upgrading my 18mm SE sway bar to the BAT 19mm? Is it worth it, will I notice a difference?
Will the frame/mounts still need re-inforcing?
Rob
You should be OK with the 19mm bar. That's the largest bar that Ford put on the Contour.
I have a brand new 19mm rear sway bar and rubber bushings I bought from BAT (Ford OEM part). I also have heavy duty brackets and 19mm polyurethane bushings that I bought from Performance Fords for use with the stock subframe.
19mm rear sway bar, polyurethane bushings, and heavy duty brackets are really the best you can do without reinforcing the subframe. You will notice a difference in handling.
My Plans changed and I am not going to use these parts - if you want them, I can make you a good deal.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Rob, how does your subframe look? If it's not very rusty, just throw on the 21mm. Odds are good that you'll be fine. If not, it's a pretty easy cheap fix.
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