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Joined: Sep 2005
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Hey all,
I did a search...way too much information, so please don't get too upset that I posted this question...again...
Anyhoo, I have a 98 Contour SE V6, and a 21mm BAT Rear Sway bar w/ bushings.
Do I have to re-inforce the subframe tabs like described? I don't drive this thing at the track or drive it hard...what's the deal? I bought the sway bar because I thought it was a straight swap...
Also have new BAT Endlinks.
Rob
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Joined: Oct 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by Rob___: Hey all,
I did a search...way too much information, so please don't get too upset that I posted this question...again...
Anyhoo, I have a 98 Contour SE V6, and a 21mm BAT Rear Sway bar w/ bushings.
Do I have to re-inforce the subframe tabs like described? I don't drive this thing at the track or drive it hard...what's the deal? I bought the sway bar because I thought it was a straight swap...
Also have new BAT Endlinks.
Rob
It is highly recommended with any upgraded rear bar. Even some stock setups have had issues. You can always try to go without, since it's an easy enough bar to remove and replace (not like the front.)
Why are you upgrading the rear bar if you don't track it or autocross? I've kept my stock rear SE bar, but upgraded to poly bushings. I noticed improvement right away. Tracks very well on the street. I actually have an SVT front bar (smaller than our stock 20mm bar), but I haven't gotten up the gumption to attempt the install, yet. Just thinking out loud, here.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Joined: Jan 2004
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CEG\'er
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It is not required when installing the bar.That's why I told you to make sure and keep the bushings well greased.I didn't have any problems with my mounts until I waited to long to grease the bushings.You probably won't have any problems since you don't drive it hard and you're probably on stock suspension.I know It's hard to crawl under your car every few thousand miles to grease the bushings,so if you get in a bind and can't grease them spray them with WD40.That is only a temporary fix though.Make sure you stay on top of the lube.
2000 Silver SVT
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Actually I'm running BAT Suspension Kit...does that make a difference...
So why does everyone say to beef it up? Is it just for serious corning?
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The stock tabs are weak. There's a considerable amount of force transmitted through them when you corner, and the harder you corner and the stiffer the swaybar the worse it is. Stiffer springs actually help by taking some of the load off the swaybar. If you have access to someone with a welder (most shops can help you out), just drop the subframe and have them weld it up a little. It's cheap and easy insurance. Should be about $50, maybe less.
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Holy man,
I'm all stressed out now. Thought I could just do a quick swap after work, now some are telling me to strengthen, others are saying no need...what should I do man?
I really just wanted to do the swap, but if it's gonna bust my car I rather not do anything...
Sorry to be so blunt, but that's just my feeling...
Rob
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If it's a PITA for you just swap it in. With your springs and road use odds are you'll be fine.
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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil: If it's a PITA for you just swap it in. With your springs and road use odds are you'll be fine.
I agree. Try it this way, keeping it well lubed. If something does break, then you'll have to have it welded up, anyway, but at least you won't have dropped the subframe unnecessarily.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Joined: Sep 2005
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Ok guys...I'll jack'r up when I get home...see what it looks like down there.
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Sorry Rob, didn't mean to freak you out. reinforcing the tabs is just cheap insurance, so I suggested it. You don't HAVE to do it. Good that you have the information though.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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