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I have the engine out of the car, so I figure now is the easiest time to install the sending unit to the block. I found the hex nut that was behind the compressor, it looks like I'm going to have to buy another fitting/reducer so it will fit the kit.
1. After you guys mounted it to the block, what route did you use for the tubing? What is easiest and low-risk from heat/rotating objects?
I also have a lights and whistles gauge (air/fuel) and I haven't looked at it in a while, but I think it said to connect it to the lower o2 sensor. Now, I have MSDS headers going in with my 3L, and instead of installing MIL Elim's I was just going to disable my lower o2's via the prp/xcal2.
2. Will disabling the lower o2's effect the A/F gauge? Will it still work, just not be read by the PCM, meaning the gauge will work, or does it mean the gauge will not work.
Yes, I know an A/F gauge is pretty worthless unless it's wideband...but thats not really in the budget right now. Any info is appreciated.
2000 Contour SVT
SF - #542 of 2150
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You will hook it into the up stream o2, otherwise your different the purpose of the gauge. And be sure to send it to gadgetseller.com to make it more accurate and not just a light show! And no, the downstream o2s won't affect the a/f gauge.
Ryan
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how do they make the a/f gauge more accurate...?
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Originally posted by posthuman63t: how do they make the a/f gauge more accurate...?
http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/index.htm
Ryan
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Thanks for the info. I am sending my gauge to them tomorrow.
That solves 1 of my questions....still wondering how everyone routed their tubing for their mechanical oil pressure gauges from the hex bolt behind the A/c compressor to the firewall.
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Related question to your post, do you have to remove the A/C compressor to gain access to that hex bolt? As my engine is still in the car and I would like to install my gauge there. Thanks.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Originally posted by posthuman63t: how do they make the a/f gauge more accurate...?
buy a wideband
The narrowband works to slow.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer: Originally posted by RawBurt: I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Originally posted by CSVT#49: Related question to your post, do you have to remove the A/C compressor to gain access to that hex bolt? As my engine is still in the car and I would like to install my gauge there. Thanks.
My engine is out of the car. there isn't much room between the two, I'd suggest taking off your serp. belt and removing the bolts holding on the ac compressor. If memory serves me correctly, its only 3 bolts then you can move it away w/out any problems.
And Tourige...gimme some cash and I'll buy a Wideband...
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Originally posted by CSVT#49: Related question to your post, do you have to remove the A/C compressor to gain access to that hex bolt? As my engine is still in the car and I would like to install my gauge there. Thanks.
IIRC, you have to unbolt it to gain access, but not disconnect it.
Ryan
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Originally posted by RTStabler51: IIRC, you have to unbolt it to gain access, but not disconnect it.
Sweet I didn't want to disconnect the A/C lines and have R134a spraying all over. So what kind of adaptors have you guys used to install the sensor? I'm assuming I'm going to have to buy some 90 degree bends so I can screw in the pressure sending unit. Or will the thing fit in there behind the A/C compressor? It's the standard sending unit the big knober deal with the stud sticking out the end.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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