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I realized why the tranny and engine is not stabbing. The 3 liter has a bushing that stick out of the crank now I am worried like crap that this peice will come out assembled.

What tool did ya'll use to remove the buching from the crank. I was think of maybe a seal puller or so or worse senario to cut the bit out with a vertical metal saw.

Help need some tips here


99 SVT #198 blk/blue Spec 3/quaife/stage 2 shafts T3/T4 fully built 3.0 ported heads water injec./intercooled 13.2 @ 107 mph clifford alarm and turbo timer koni struts H&R springs intercooler for sale
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A hack saw will work if you don't have anything else. Just be sure to remove it as flush as possible. There are other ways but considering the state of your build this would likely be the easiest


Then: 99 Silver Frost SVT #1919 237hp/219tq All Motor Now: 06 White STI Parts 4 sale
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Check out my recent post. I have a video of the die grinder on the bushing.

Die Grinder

Just scroll closer to the bottom of the post. Hope it helps!


3L process done
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judging by your post...you must not have been aware...it does not come out...you just need to cut it flush...

I used a hacksaw as well.


98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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it does come off!! use a sliding hammer type dent puller. Weld on a nut to the end of the pilot, thread the dent puller onto the nut and yank it out.

Last edited by ovalracer98csvt; 07/21/06 09:50 PM.

1998 red CSVT 02' 3l hybrid swap, MSDS headers, KKM intake, UD pulleys, Brenspeed tune, DMD poly mounts
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The heat from welding the nut on the bushing has the potential to damage the rear seal. Cut two slits in the side of the pilot bushing and use a Bearing Separator with a puller and it'll come right out.


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it does not get near hot enough to damage the rear seal. tack a couple spots and pull it. that easy


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I used an angle grinder with a thin cut-off wheel. It took me about ten seconds to cut it off and sand it smooth.


Black 1998.5 3L Oval Port Full HMS Transmission Lots of other stuff Ressurected 06/14/06
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Well Guys I found the easiest way too get it out. First if you have the same size solid rod as the pilot ID then take thick grease and pack it in the hole and when you hit the rod into the pilot bearing the grease with hyrdraulically press out the bearing if it not old and rusted or worn too.

But that method did not work since I could locate a spline or rod too fit the hole perfectly.

So I went get a 7/8 drill bit and drilled out the pilot bearing which drilled easily too. Then I purchased a 1 inch bolt and a 1 inch tap and tap the piolt bearing. Then I took a small quarter inch socket and put it in the hole first to allow the bolt to mate up early. I then threaded the 1 inch bolt into the new thread and then got my half inch impact wrench and pressed it out.

Took me 8 hours to loacte the idea around town and 30 minutes to remove once I got the right method.

Oh I also rented the pilot bearing puller from autozone.
Save your time the the pilot bearing is flush does not have enough space behind it to get the two fingers in behind the bushing.

I would have the darn thing running today but I spent all day on a darn bushing.

Oh the final cost to do this was 35 bucks for parts and 20 dollars in gas firguring it out.....lol.....

Well I have a dyno appointment schedule for friday wish me luck guys.


99 SVT #198 blk/blue Spec 3/quaife/stage 2 shafts T3/T4 fully built 3.0 ported heads water injec./intercooled 13.2 @ 107 mph clifford alarm and turbo timer koni struts H&R springs intercooler for sale
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How did you NOT KNOW by this time about having to cut that piece of the metal bushing off? lol

Building a turbo but missed that piece of info that has been around since 2000 on this board. Heheheh.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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