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I did what the link said, to complete the I/M readiness. The EVAP, Catalyst, HO2S, O2S are still not ready. This was about the 6th or 7th drive cycle and still no codes have been sent. The car ran normal during this last drive cycle.
I've spent too much money on this car. I bought it to help a family member. Things didn't work out now I just need to sale it so I can try to get my money back. $7,000 not counting ins, tag, and labor.
Needless to say right now I am hoping the thermostat was too cool and causing the problems.
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Originally posted by brett64:
..I could not make out the ohm resistance chart for the ECT sensor that is in the Autozone instructions, so I have not checked it yet.
Click on the chart and it opens up in a different window. Note that some OBD II tests will not run if the ECT does not send a correct signal. So, test the ECT sensor.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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I found a chart in my Contour repair manual. The sensor seemed to be really close to spec. It was hard to hold it in the 200+ F water and check but the ohms came down to 2.0 at that temp and was around 33 ohms when I first removed it. I drove the car again this evening and P0172 code came back. 
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Did you get a chance to test the Bank 1 (firewall side) Upper O2 sensor?
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Well my cheesy manual says testing an O2 sensor is beyond the scope of the DIY. Two of the terminals on the sensor measured 3.8 ohms. The other two didn't read anything. Other than that I don't know how to test them.
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From previous post with autozone link on testing O2 sensor.
"Disconnect the HO2S.
Measure the resistance between PWR and GND terminals of the sensor. Resistance should be approximately 6 ohms at 68�°F (20�°C). If resistance is not within specification, the sensor's heater element is faulty.
With the HO2S connected and engine running, measure the voltage with a Digital Volt-Ohmmeter (DVOM) between terminals HO2S and SIG RTN (GND) of the oxygen sensor connector. Voltage should fluctuate between 0.01-1.1 volts. If voltage fluctuation is slow or voltage is not within specification, the sensor may be faulty."
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by Brett64:
Well my cheesy manual says testing an O2 sensor is beyond the scope of the DIY. Two of the terminals on the sensor measured 3.8 ohms. The other two didn't read anything. Other than that I don't know how to test them.
The two terminals that did show resistance are the heater elements.
The other two are the sensor itself which is not a resistance-type device.
If you really want to test it, remove it, connect a voltmeter to the two sensor elements, and heat the tip with a propane torch while watching the voltmeter. A good sensor will start generating voltage (up to aroun .8 or .9 Vdc when it gets hot.
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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I will be busy today, but I should be able to check tomorrow. I want to check the lower sensors as well to see how much voltage they make.
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Originally posted by Brett64:
I will be busy today, but I should be able to check tomorrow. I want to check the lower sensors as well to see how much voltage they make.
The downstream sensors aren't an issue here unless you just wish to indulge curiosity.
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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I checked the top two O2 sensors they both climbed up to .8 vdc as they heated up.
I still have some concern about the fuel pressure dropping. I have installed the FSVT pump but it still has trouble when the tank is 1/4 or lower. It seems to me that the gas runs away from the pickup when hard cornering or going up a hill under heavy acceleration. Could this somehow be affecting the PCM calculations? Is the tank suppose to have baffles to stop the fuel from running away? Is there other reasons for this condition like the inertia switch malfunctioning?
Now where do I go from here?
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