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should there be any play when doing the 9-3 test? i've been feeling some slight squirminess in the front end and every now and then at slower speeds when braking the steering wheel will cut 45* to the left or right and i have to counter it. i did a quick 9-3 test on one of the wheels (i happen to have a front corner jacked up) and think i got more movement on the 9 than on the 3. but should there be any movement? the 12-6 test i get no movement. but i wasnt sure if the movement was just me shaking the front end via the wheel. should i feel the wheel/control arm moving in and out if the bushings r going?
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
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Quote:
should i feel the wheel/control arm moving in and out if the bushings r going?
Yes.
If the bushings are good, the control arm will not move in the 3-9 test.
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Originally posted by hmouta:
when braking the steering wheel will cut 45* to the left or right and i have to counter it.
bingo.. i had that problem EXACTLY. it was found to be a worn out bushing on the passenger side lower control arm.. install was fairly simple and parts were cheap.. i was going insane workin on brake components trying to decide what was going on and i was very relieved when i figured this out.
1998.5 Diamond White Pearl SVT (#4725)
custom exhaust/intake k&N/mod'ed y-pipe
slotted rotors/greenstuff pads/SS lines
cougar trans/FSVT shift tower/Torsen
16lb. flywheel
18" Velox VX-8's with some rubba bands
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i'm gonna retest them to be sure. i wanted to avoid this and maybe install the 4 bolt arms and subframe next year but i might as well do them soon when i install the koni kit. i dont have any air tools. will i be able to get the all the bolts without them?
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
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Sorry to jack the thread.
Where did you purchase the bushings and do you have a part number?
Preferred brand?
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i believe the whole control arm has to be replaced when the bushings go. the 2 bolt arms are relatively cheap. about 60 each arm from teamfordparts.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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Are you sure it is not the lower ball joint or outer tie rod? Might be worth it to jack up the car and check. Pushing and pulling on the parts would confirm if they are loose.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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yeah i have to recheck to see. i really didnt get any 12-6 movement but i was checking really fast. i need to be a little more thorough when i check again
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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Originally posted by hmouta:
.. i really didnt get any 12-6 movement ..
I posted because 9-3 could also be outer tie rods and lower ball joint issues. (12-6 is usually wheel bearing)
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by hmouta:
.. i really didnt get any 12-6 movement ..
I posted because 9-3 could also be outer tie rods and lower ball joint issues. (12-6 is usually wheel bearing)
Yeah, those could also cause play in the 3-9 test. Need to focus specifically on the control arm itself when checking the bushings.
Of course, being a Contour, they all might be bad....
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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