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Well I started my 3.0L swap yesterday. Everything went good except a couple of things. The Ford CD helps a lot, but it would be a lot more helpful if it had real pictures. It might have been beneficial if I took the pictures it was trying to show, could have possibly helped some people out. I wanted to post my progress just because I am excited to get it all back together, the weather has been great, hopefully it will be back in action before the 4th of July. I also wanted to start this thread incase I needed help. This is what I got done yesterday:    I am taking the day off from the swap; I canâ??t take anymore sick days. Oh well. I will keep the pictures coming once I start swapping parts over at night.
3L process done
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Just make sure you use the 2.5L (contour) assembly intructions. The taurus instructions has some serious mistakes in it.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
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Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
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A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Don't forget about the pulse wheel!!! LOL!
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
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No Shite!!!! I would not want to be the guy that had to pull everything back out just to flip the pulse wheel!!LOL!!!
Good Luck Man!!!!!!! Let us know if you need anything!
CSVT E0 3L
14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
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Originally posted by Pale Horse:
No Shite!!!! I would not want to be the guy that had to pull everything back out just to flip the pulse wheel!!LOL!!!
Good Luck Man!!!!!!! Let us know if you need anything!
Inside joke....?
*I'm on the outside...once again...  *
2000 Contour SVT
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Inside joke....?
Nope. Just something ppl seem to forget. Heck it ALMOST got me.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
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Originally posted by Pale Horse:
No Shite!!!! I would not want to be the guy that had to pull everything back out just to flip the pulse wheel!!LOL!!!
Good Luck Man!!!!!!! Let us know if you need anything!
Holy crap, you finally figured out what the shift key is supposed to be used for.
Whirling dervish of FFOG.
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Originally posted by todras:
Don't forget about the pulse wheel!!! LOL!
I hope I come across what that is. I suppose I will find out tonight or the next night. Does the Ford CD call it the pulse wheel?
3L process done
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I went into the garage to check it out. I feel alot better now that I looked at it. Seems like a careless mistake, hopefully I wont be careless.  
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Just make sure it stays on the 2.5 just as it came off. This is because you still use all the 2.5 timing components.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
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I am swapping over my cams from my SVT onto my 3.0L and I canâ??t remember if I saw a threat about telling the difference between Taurus cams and the SVT cams. I thought I remembered the SVT cams having a green stripe on them.
I took the part number from my cam F73E-6A269-BA and checked the web without any results. I donâ??t know what I am worried about, I just thought for a second I could have been screwed and the seller to never think I would go in there to notice. I just like reassurance 
3L process done
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3L process done
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Nice pics! This will definetly help me out!
Sal
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
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3L process done
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I'm pretty sure that is the knock sensor.
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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Originally posted by 99cougar:
I'm pretty sure that is the knock sensor.
Any idea of how the SVT Knock sensor fits on the Taurus Block?
3L process done
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"Absolut Rara."
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
Originally posted by 99cougar:
I'm pretty sure that is the knock sensor.
Any idea of how the SVT Knock sensor fits on the Taurus Block?
Either splice the Taurus sensor into the 2.5L harness, or drill and tap the block for the 2,5L sensor. todras prefers to drill and tap, while most other prefer to splice in the connector to use the 3L sensor.
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Originally posted by Rara:
most other prefer to splice in the connector to use the 3L sensor.
That's what I will be doing.
2000 Contour SVT
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are you not rebuilding the 3L engine? all that and your putting used back in? i do not believe in doing that. oh well, to each his own, and good luck 
1998 CSVT
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Originally posted by TRicker:
are you not rebuilding the 3L engine? all that and your putting used back in? i do not believe in doing that. oh well, to each his own, and good luck
The components on the SVT engine that are in ok shape I am going to reuse, no sense in throwing stuff away that still works or spending more money that I donâ??t have.
Thanks for the help guys. I think I will splice I suppose, anyone have pictures of their finished product?
3L process done
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lol, I reused SVT cams and timing components from my old motor. You go and buy all new stuff from the dealer and see if you still believe in brand new stuff.
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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
lol, I reused SVT cams and timing components from my old motor. You go and buy all new stuff from the dealer and see if you still believe in brand new stuff.
SVT cams are really cheap from the dealer. I think it was around 1200? 
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Pictures of Today
REFRESH IF A PICTURE DOESN'T LOAD (PM me if it still doesnt)
SVT Flywheel 95k
SVT Flywheel Resurfaced
Bearings Pressed on the Torsen
One question, Can I reuse this? It broke when I used a gear puller to pull it off. Thanks for the help. (Crank Pully)
Unsolved Questions:
1. SVT Cams have a mark on them to tell the difference between other Taurus or Escape Cams?
2. Anyone have a picture of their knock sensor on their 3.0L?
Thanks
3L process done
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shouldn't your torsen have the speedo gear on it?
I wouldn't use the pulley with a chip in it like that. It probably wouldn't hurt much but can cause vibration, noise, and throw the balancing of the crank off. Pick up a DMD if you have the extra funds.
SVT Cams with large pitch should have 36 teeth. Small pitch such as the 3.0 cams have 42 teeth. The orange stripe can wear off but the part # is still usually on them.
he switch from 3/8in pitch to 8mm pitch was a running change during the 2000 model year.
Check the laser etched part numbers on the cam to positively identify. Part number will be in the form XXX-6A26*-XX (Prefix-Base-Suffix)
Base numbers are:
6A266 for Intake RH
6A267 for Intake LH
6A268 for Exhaust RH
6A269 for Exhaust LH
3/8" (large pitch) pitch SVT cams will have F73E prefix. 8mm pitch SVT cams will have 1S7E prefix and suffix must be BA. (CA was non-svt)
If for some reason the part number is not visible then you should be able to measure the cam lobes. I don't know the specs but the SVT lobes should be taller than non SVT lobes.
My 99 Cougar did not have a knock sensor so I just took it out completely. The oil pressure send in the front of the block needs changed over also.
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Wow thanks for noticing that about my Torsen, I completely forgot and didnâ??t come across the part again so it never rang a bell. I will head back to the machine shop again and see what they can do. I hope the bearing will be useable after they pull it and repress onto the differential.
I am so upset with myself for breaking that lip on the crank pulley. I have spent way to much money on this swap and being a college student I really donâ??t have cash to throw around that much. I can only thank Monster.com for my income this summer.
I think I will look into a DMD or Unorthodox Under drive Crank Pulley. I need to look into that soon, I wanted to reinstall my engine on Thursday, (when my crank bolt comes in). I will just search around for cheap alternatives.
Thanks for your help RodneyBur
Unsolved Questions:
1:Anyone have a picture of their knock sensor on their 3.0L?
3L process done
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A new speedo gear is probably $8 from Bill Jenkins. A DMD is probably around $40 if you can't find a used one.
Also, if you got your 3L from an escape, the damper/crank pulley is the same as for the contour cougar and is interchangeable. If you got it from the tauraus/sable then it wont.
If you take a file to your damper pulley where the rib broke and make sure that it has no sharp upraised portions that will eat up the belt then you can use it. THat little bit of weight shouldn't hurt anything. As long as the remaining ribs are still straight and you take off the burrs it will work fine.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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I have a spare pulley ... you pay shipping + $5 and it's yours 
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Hey Brad, on this setup... Did you have to cut the cam? If so, you have pics of that?
Thanks,
Sal
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
[img]http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/260278/original/CrackerBarrel.jpg[/img]
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Does look like it in the pics....
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Thanks for the replies. I am going to first see if I can get a DMD. Originally posted by SableSal:
Hey Brad, on this setup... Did you have to cut the cam? If so, you have pics of that?
Not sure what you mean by this Sal, but I didnâ??t do any cutting on my cams. PM me if you need any help.
3L process done
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"Absolut Rara."
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I just ordered a DMD from Bill the other day, the current price is $104.64
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Ah, I know why no cutting of cams... You swapped the 2.5L heads over didn't you??
Nevermind, I should probably do the same. Lemme know what kinda power she produces in the end.
Sal
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
[img]http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/260278/original/CrackerBarrel.jpg[/img]
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Originally posted by SableSal:
Ah, I know why no cutting of cams... You swapped the 2.5L heads over didn't you??
Nevermind, I should probably do the same. Lemme know what kinda power she produces in the end.
Sal
...READ MORE!
2000 Contour SVT
SF - #542 of 2150
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by SableSal:
Ah, I know why no cutting of cams... You swapped the 2.5L heads over didn't you??
Nevermind, I should probably do the same. Lemme know what kinda power she produces in the end.
Sal
...READ MORE!
Will do!
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
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Originally posted by SableSal:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by SableSal:
Ah, I know why no cutting of cams... You swapped the 2.5L heads over didn't you??
Nevermind, I should probably do the same. Lemme know what kinda power she produces in the end.
Sal
...READ MORE!
Will do!
I think I remember reading somewhere recently about some dude trying to put SVT cams into a duratec motor that did not have the cam driven water pump. Is this what you mean? If so, he doesn't have anything to cut off because the engine he has and all the Contour/Mystique Duratec v6 engines had the cam driven water pump.
Of course, if you we're doing the opposite, putting Contour/Mystique cams into a Duratec motor (without a cam driven water pump), than yes, you would have to cut off the pulley and some metal off the one camshaft to make it fit into the head.
Black 1998.5
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Ouch!
Pricey now aren't they?
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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Originally posted by Rara:
I just ordered a DMD from Bill the other day, the current price is $104.64
Looks like I will be calling Bill tomorrow. I cant really wait for someone to sell me one from their broken car. Oh well I just want to get the rest of this swap done. I have to head over the tranny section to learn how to shim next!
3L process done
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Originally posted by muntus:
Originally posted by SableSal:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by SableSal:
Ah, I know why no cutting of cams... You swapped the 2.5L heads over didn't you??
Nevermind, I should probably do the same. Lemme know what kinda power she produces in the end.
Sal
...READ MORE!
Will do!
I think I remember reading somewhere recently about some dude trying to put SVT cams into a duratec motor that did not have the cam driven water pump. Is this what you mean? If so, he doesn't have anything to cut off because the engine he has and all the Contour/Mystique Duratec v6 engines had the cam driven water pump.
Of course, if you we're doing the opposite, putting Contour/Mystique cams into a Duratec motor (without a cam driven water pump), than yes, you would have to cut off the pulley and some metal off the one camshaft to make it fit into the head.
Is there a write up on this site that shows the steps and what and where the cams need to be cut off?
Thanks everyone so far for helping me while following this thread. I've learned soo much so far!
Thank you again!
Sal
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
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I don't think there is a write up of it...really doesn't have to be. After you get the 2.5 cams next to your 3L heads, you'll see what you've got to do and where you need to chop the cam.
2000 Contour SVT
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My vote is to drill and tap the M8x1.25 knock sensor hole used on 2001 and up 2.5/3.0L engines to the M12x1.5 used on earlier models like your's. I would recommend against splicing the sensors. The calibration in the ECU to detect knock is specific to the sensor. By splicing in a different sensor you might possibly confuse the ECU. It could either not detect knock or detect knock where there is none.
Keep up the good work but please stuff some rags in those intake and exhaust ports before a screw falls in and puts a hole in your piston.
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Originally posted by procyon:
My vote is to drill and tap the M8x1.25 knock sensor hole used on 2001 and up 2.5/3.0L engines to the M12x1.5 used on earlier models like your's. I would recommend against splicing the sensors. The calibration in the ECU to detect knock is specific to the sensor. By splicing in a different sensor you might possibly confuse the ECU. It could either not detect knock or detect knock where there is none.
Keep up the good work but please stuff some rags in those intake and exhaust ports before a screw falls in and puts a hole in your piston.
Thanks for the advice. There is cardboard on top of it, Didnâ??t want to take a picture with a piece of cardboard in it  .
Now I will go read how to tap.
What I found:
Thread size - 12mm x 1.75
Use 11/32 drill bit for tapping
3L process done
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Update: I had some time this weekend to play around with the tranny. The transmission was not as complicated as I would of expected. I swaped the shift forks out with the updated ones in minutes and the LSD in the car was easy to get the gear off. I wish I could have shimmed the transmission myself; it would have saved me a lot of time and money. Itâ??s going to a shop tomorrow to get done. Hopefully I will get the transmission back soon. I am waiting on two parts from Ford that I ordered from Bill that should arrive tomorrow so I can get everything ready to drop back in. Looking forward to finishing this process.   
3L process done
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
Update: I had some time this weekend to play around with the tranny. The transmission was not as complicated as I would of expected. I swaped the shift forks out with the updated ones in minutes and the LSD in the car was easy to get the gear off. I wish I could have shimmed the transmission myself; it would have saved me a lot of time and money. Itâ??s going to a shop tomorrow to get done. Hopefully I will get the transmission back soon.
I am waiting on two parts from Ford that I ordered from Bill that should arrive tomorrow so I can get everything ready to drop back in.
Looking forward to finishing this process.
I Love seeing people get into their cars, save some money, and learn a bunch. I like it when people get so smart that they end up knowing more than the mechanics who work at the dealers.  Especially when I have a hand in it. lol
Keep up the good work!
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by bradSVT:
Update: I had some time this weekend to play around with the tranny. The transmission was not as complicated as I would of expected. I swaped the shift forks out with the updated ones in minutes and the LSD in the car was easy to get the gear off. I wish I could have shimmed the transmission myself; it would have saved me a lot of time and money. Itâ??s going to a shop tomorrow to get done. Hopefully I will get the transmission back soon.
I am waiting on two parts from Ford that I ordered from Bill that should arrive tomorrow so I can get everything ready to drop back in.
Looking forward to finishing this process.
I Love seeing people get into their cars, save some money, and learn a bunch. I like it when people get so smart that they end up knowing more than the mechanics who work at the dealers. Especially when I have a hand in it. lol
Keep up the good work!
Thanks, ya I know what you mean when I feel like I know more then these mechanics that are suppose to shim my tranny. I still have not found a place I am confident enough in to get the job done right. Hopefully I will get a call back soon on a place that might be the one.
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
Looking forward to finishing this process.
I know exactly how you feel, except that I am done.
And it feels great. 490 miles till I can have some fun.
Black 1998.5
3L Oval Port
Full HMS Transmission
Lots of other stuff
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i cant wait to make a 3L feel like he wasted his time although i could be very wrong, and feel like i wasted my time putting a 2.5 back into the car  good luck on the swap!
1998 CSVT
NX stage 1 ford EFI kit
MSD dis-4
B&M short throw
K&N short ram intake
Fsvt Euro 17's
Trubendz 2.5" exhaust
Spec stage 3
249.9 HP 258.2 TRQ clutch slipping the whole time
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Originally posted by TRicker:
i cant wait to make a 3L feel like he wasted his time
LMAO...you just don't get it do you? Mod for moda 3L WILL HAVE more power than a 2.5 anyday. Stock vs. stock they do...and then a full bolt-on 2.5 vs. a full bolt-on 3L. If you take your exact setup that you plan to do with your 2.5 and put it on a 3L guess what...it will have more power. So quit all the "i'm stayin' with the 2.5" bullsh!t and do a 3L! 
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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I will have the dyno of my car in a couple of weeks to see what it pulls. Hopefully something good. Maybe that will help him notice the 3L gains?
3L process done
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
I will have the dyno of my car in a couple of weeks to see what it pulls. Hopefully something good. Maybe that will help him notice the 3L gains?
Maybe it will. I can promise one thing...if for nothing else but the cheap price and the added torque for daily driving, i will be doing a 3L whenever m 2.5 decides to kick the bucket...or maybe before it does we'll just have to see.
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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Originally posted by 99cougar:
Maybe it will. I can promise one thing...if for nothing else but the cheap price and the added torque for daily driving, i will be doing a 3L whenever m 2.5 decides to kick the bucket...or maybe before it does we'll just have to see.
That's what I did. Thank you, rod knock.
Black 1998.5
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Full HMS Transmission
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i wont have my engine done and in the car till the end of next month, so early september i'm going to get it on the dyno for a few pulls. i'll post up the slips.
1998 CSVT
NX stage 1 ford EFI kit
MSD dis-4
B&M short throw
K&N short ram intake
Fsvt Euro 17's
Trubendz 2.5" exhaust
Spec stage 3
249.9 HP 258.2 TRQ clutch slipping the whole time
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Since I cracked my crank pulley I got a reason to upgrade to a DMD Bill J. Price $106.81    I also got my transmission back from a shop today. The funny thing was the guy knew that I had a CSVT and asked will this transmission be on a 2.5L or 3.0L? I didnâ??t hear him say 3.0L so all I said was yes. Then when I realized he said 3.0L I said ya thatâ??s the engine I am rebuilding. I was surprised that he knew about that type of swap, but made me more relaxed about leaving it there. Also everything was sealed which makes me feel like they took there time on it. Cost: $260
3L process done
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yeah up here in MN i went into MAS racing products and like 3 guys at the same time asked if it was a 3L when i said contour SVT..... i said no, im a wittle guy
1998 CSVT
NX stage 1 ford EFI kit
MSD dis-4
B&M short throw
K&N short ram intake
Fsvt Euro 17's
Trubendz 2.5" exhaust
Spec stage 3
249.9 HP 258.2 TRQ clutch slipping the whole time
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I had some extra time today so I decided to swap over the oil pan from the 2.5L block. I thought I was going to have to alter something on the bracket but never came across a problem.  After I finished with the oil pan I noticed that the transmission doesnâ??t seem to line up correctly with the 3.0L block. I took the engine off the stand and put it on the ground to check. I put up the transmission and was in shock. Everything had gaps and I was so afraid I got screwed on the engine again and brought back bad memories from before: previous post I sat back and started thinking about what I was going to do, when my neighbor came over, he likes to see the progress. He asked â??Whereâ??s the backing plate?â? I gave that guy a hug I was so relieved. That was a very scary moment of this process. Haha and the most stupid moment for me as well. I ended up cutting the bushing to get the crank even to fit the flywheel. I used a sawzall with a metal blade. I heard that when you use a sawzall a lot of vibrations occur that hurt the crank. I started with a hacksaw and then said screw it. The sawzall didnâ??t shake the crank at all. I then used a die grinder to make it all even. Die Grinder on the Crank I didnâ??t have a camera today, I just used my camera phone to record everything today. I have a busy weekend so it looks like the rest of the engine work will come next week.
3L process done
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Just imagine all the vibration the engine sees while running! Then think of a sawzall, roll your eyes, and get to work cutting that stuff. Sawzall is the number one tool for the 3L conversion
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
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I have no life
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
I used a sawzall with a metal blade.
 I used one made out of marshmellow!
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Originally posted by todras:
Originally posted by bradSVT:
I used a sawzall with a metal blade.
I used one made out of marshmellow!
wood works better.
Ryan
Trollin!
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Just imagine all the vibration the engine sees while running! Then think of a sawzall, roll your eyes, and get to work cutting that stuff. Sawzall is the number one tool for the 3L conversion
Completely agree.
Originally posted by todras:
Originally posted by bradSVT:
I used a sawzall with a metal blade.
I used one made out of marshmellow!
That is funny. I meant a blade designed for cutting metal, incase someone wanted to use a different blade for cutting wood. But I suppose it probably didnâ??t need to be said.
3L process done
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but then you can't sit down and have a snack afterwards...
2000 Contour SVT
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3L process done
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These are the codes that are coming up.
P0141 â??? O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor2)
P0155 â??? O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0135 â??? O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0161 â??? O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
Just wondering if all of these codes come up from the MIL eliminators not working correctly?
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You can turn off the downstream O2's on your XCal2 tune instead of making MIL eliminators for them. It's way easier, but you won't have them for comparing bank readings. IMO, it isn't a big deal, especially if you have a wideband sensor hooked up correctly with a good tune.
BTW, congrats on your 3L!
Matt
2002 Subaru Impreza WRX (WRB Stage 4+)
Old Rides:
1999 Sil-Fro SVT Contour 3.0L with goodies (Totalled 6/21/06)
1988 Bronco II (Sold)
You know you launch hard when you beat oncoming traffic through their own crosswalk lines.
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
These are the codes that are coming up.
P0141 â??? O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor2)
P0155 â??? O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0135 â??? O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0161 â??? O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
Just wondering if all of these codes come up from the MIL eliminators not working correctly?
That sounds like you pinched a wiring harness (or corrupted the circuit) for the O2 sensors. Improperly made/installed MIL Eliminators may be causing it but I would double-check all the wiring first. Especially the wiring for the front (bank 2) O2 sensors.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Looks great.
YOu are probably getting those codes cuz you soldered the wrong wires when you tried to make mil eliminators.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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What would the MIL elims have to do with the upstream sensors? That could be the problem on the lowers, but wouldnt another issue be causing the upstream problems? Congrats on finishing your project! Looking forward to see what kind of numbers you get. 
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Thanks for the replies. I believe it could be a fuse. One of the fuses controls all the 02 heater sensors so I think I will check that out and see if it is the case.
I thought my MIL eliminators were done correctly. My dad did it and he is a hardware engineer. I would tease him if he got something so simple wrong.
3L process done
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Yep it was a fuse, it makes you feel good when you figure out a problem. Thanks for the ideas.
I will get that video on here shortly
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What kind of clutch did you use?
Why did you decide to keep the secondary Butterflies?
Good job on the install and thanks for the updates.
I started taking my 3L apart but won't remove my 2.5 for another couple weeks - need another car to drive first.
Good luck with the tuning.
1998 Contour SVT Black w/ Blue interior
Torsen LSD updated shiftforks
Lightened Flywheel, HD Drivelines
Optimized Thottle Body
2003 3.0L engine upgrade (Soon to be)
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I just got my flywheel resurfaced and used a spec 1 since I am not turbo/supercharger my car anytime soon.
I kept the butterfly's because most people do I believe. I dont want to lose tq and when I get tuned those will kick in differently I believe.
Update: I didnt fix the check engine light. I changed the fuse and it didnt end up working. I guess I will troubleshoot more.
3L process done
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Awesome job Brad. I got my engine in today. Start hooking things up tomorrow, hopefully I will be able to start it up on Sunday. (i get up at noon and work for about 4 hours so, 2 days should be accurate, hehe) Anyways....Congrats bro.
2000 Contour SVT
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
Update: I didnt fix the check engine light. I changed the fuse and it didnt end up working. I guess I will troubleshoot more.
Did you disconnect your battery to reset the check engine light?
Black 1998.5
3L Oval Port
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Lots of other stuff
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Awesome job Brad. I got my engine in today. Start hooking things up tomorrow, hopefully I will be able to start it up on Sunday. (i get up at noon and work for about 4 hours so, 2 days should be accurate, hehe) Anyways....Congrats bro.
Thanks good luck with everything. Make sure you get the O2 sensor on the front header before you put the radiator and fan in
Originally posted by muntus:
Originally posted by bradSVT:
Update: I didnt fix the check engine light. I changed the fuse and it didnt end up working. I guess I will troubleshoot more.
Did you disconnect your battery to reset the check engine light?
Ya I did disconnect my battery but I don't think I left it disconnected long enough. The fuse was blown when I checked it out, thatâ??s why I thought I had fixed it. So maybe a O2 sensor is breaking it and causing this problem.
3L process done
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Awesome job Brad. I got my engine in today. Start hooking things up tomorrow, hopefully I will be able to start it up on Sunday. (i get up at noon and work for about 4 hours so, 2 days should be accurate, hehe) Anyways....Congrats bro.
Thanks good luck with everything. Make sure you get the O2 sensor on the front header before you put the radiator and fan in
Originally posted by muntus:
Originally posted by bradSVT:
Update: I didnt fix the check engine light. I changed the fuse and it didnt end up working. I guess I will troubleshoot more.
Did you disconnect your battery to reset the check engine light?
Ya I did disconnect my battery but I don't think I left it disconnected long enough. The fuse was blown when I checked it out, thatâ??s why I thought I had fixed it. So maybe a O2 sensor is breaking it and causing this problem.
I have the o2 sensors in already, and I actually did not wind up pulling the radiator nor fan. hehe.
2000 Contour SVT
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/bradoSVT/CSVT/P1010098.jpg
[shameless plug] Needs an optimized TB [/shameless plug]
All you guys doing these 3Ls makes me very anxious to get mine dropped in my other SVT.....Congrats Brad!
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
I just got my flywheel resurfaced and used a spec 1 since I am not turbo/supercharger my car anytime soon.
I kept the butterfly's because most people do I believe. I dont want to lose tq and when I get tuned those will kick in differently I believe.
Update: I didnt fix the check engine light. I changed the fuse and it didnt end up working. I guess I will troubleshoot more.
One of your MIL eliminators may be crossed into the heater wire circuit and blowing the fuse.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Ya I think I am going to un plug them all and check the fuse and just plug them back in one at a time to see when the fuse blows.
Unless someone has a better idea
3L process done
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
What would the MIL elims have to do with the upstream sensors? That could be the problem on the lowers, but wouldnt another issue be causing the upstream problems?
Without looking at the wiring schematics I do not remember off hand if the heater circuits are all tied together. (IIRC they are) If the MIL ELIM's are tapped into the wrong wires they could corrupt that circuit.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Well Demon, I suppose that answers my question.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
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I have finally figured out the fuse blowing problem with the o2 sensor. It happened to be a bad o2 sensor that could of blown because of the two white wires being swapped and blowing the o2 sensor and then the fuse. I swapped it with a spare I had and the check engine light has gone away. So that looks good. I am also having my car tuned next week so I will try to possibly video tape some of that or get any type of info from them about numbers. I have since run into a huge problem. I posted in trouble shooting but I figured I would post here too since everyone here knows so much about 3L. Basically I don??t have any tools now that I am at school and need some advice on fixing this.
??I am trying to get some ideas to where this leak could be. I have put in a 3.0L engine now and I have done the 500 mile break in period. During that period there was no leaking or problems with the car. After that time I have added another 1000 miles to it and with that I did some commuting through Los Angeles. After I drove to LA and back to SD I noticed the next morning that my car was leaking (the large puddle on the garage floor was a good indication) I looked at where it could be coming from and noticed that there was oil all over the subframe and wheel splash shield. Also the drips seem to come from more random places but much of it coming from off of the subframe. Also there was a drip on the flex pipe. It seemed like most of the oil seemed to be around the alternator. I at first thought it could be the crank pulley, but after some examination and checking for some sort of oil near it I came up short it seemed like. The dilemma is that I have no jack stands/tools to work on this, but if I can sort of figure out with some help a general area that is known to leak I could possibly rent or ask my new neighbors for tools.
Lastly I feel like the leak would need to be high since it has gotton all over the place. I felt around the top of the valve cover on the timing cover side in the rear and noticed that it was not dry. Maybe that is where it could be leaking but I am just looking for some guidance so I can get this fixed and my car tuned.
Thanks in advance!?
Hopefully this wont cost me that much money. Books are expensive!
3L process done
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same boat as you man...School starting...books killing my wallet, and I have the SAME LEAK! Wherever its coming from its hitting my belt because i get a spray pattern on my hood. It's not leaking terribly, but it is a good leak. I tried to look around the crank seal but it didn't seem like it was from there...But today I ordered a new seal and bolt so I'm going to replace it and see if it solves my problem. Other than that, I have no idea where it could be leaking from...valvle cover seals look fine...
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Check both valve covers and possibly the timing cover.
Don't forget that the spark plug orings can leak too.
I would pay special attention to the mating surface for the valve cover where the timing cover meets the heads. This is sometimes uneven.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
same boat as you man...School starting...books killing my wallet, and I have the SAME LEAK! Wherever its coming from its hitting my belt because i get a spray pattern on my hood. It's not leaking terribly, but it is a good leak. I tried to look around the crank seal but it didn't seem like it was from there...But today I ordered a new seal and bolt so I'm going to replace it and see if it solves my problem. Other than that, I have no idea where it could be leaking from...valvle cover seals look fine...
Lucky that you can look around for the leak. I wish I could get some tools but I am 500 miles away from my beautiful garage. Good luck finding the spot.
Originally posted by warmonger:
Check both valve covers and possibly the timing cover.
Don't forget that the spark plug orings can leak too.
I would pay special attention to the mating surface for the valve cover where the timing cover meets the heads. This is sometimes uneven.
I thought it was most likely where the timing cover meets the heads and where the valve cover is. Somewhere back there. I called and am bringing into an auto repair place. This is the first time I have ever had too do this. I feel handicapped since I dont have my tools.
Oh well. Its going in at 8am tomorrow.
3L process done
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There are a couple of power steering hoses in that area as well - although the PS uses Dexron, yes? Check those for leaks as they will spray fluid everywhere.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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I'm guessing that you did have the valve cover off and front cover when you are they assembled the motor. If they did they might not have put gasket maker like ultra black etc where the seams are. Example the head and block have a seam where you put sealant on four spot before you put on the timing cover. And When you put the valve covers on you have 6 spots you must put sealant on too. Four between timing cover and two on intake cam cover for water pump. Alot people forget to put the sealant on the mated parts. Then If they do they forget to cut the excess off with a razor blade before installing valve cover too. Check to see if it puddling in the center of the motor and dripping down the cover on the belts.
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I know that I did apply sealant to all the seams. It doesn't appear that its leaking from the crank seal, but its difficult to seebehind the damper to tell if anything is running out from there. I know I put a good amount of sealant on the seams on the heads (all 6 places) and on the block.front cover where the oil pan mates up. I think I'm gonna take off the UIM and valve covers and make sure the inside (where the LIM is) seals are in good and possibly put a small bead of sealant on the gasket. The power steering pump looks wet all over so maybe it it was leaking down inside there from the valve covers.
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I also did remember to put all the sealants on the correct places. The power steering fluid has a distinct smell and I do not smell that. My oil is still very clear and the stuff dripping out of my car tastes like oil. My dipstick read max then 1000 miles later it now says min. Not sure still where it could be leaking but I feel like it has to be somewhere high up to hit the belts and spray places that you wouldn??t think a lower leak could get too. If I had a lift I am sure it would be a lot easier to tell.
3L process done
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
I also did remember to put all the sealants on the correct places. The power steering fluid has a distinct smell and I do not smell that. My oil is still very clear and the stuff dripping out of my car tastes like oil. My dipstick read max then 1000 miles later it now says min. Not sure still where it could be leaking but I feel like it has to be somewhere high up to hit the belts and spray places that you wouldn??t think a lower leak could get too. If I had a lift I am sure it would be a lot easier to tell.
Pull a few of your Plug wires out and check for oil on the ends of the wires. Secondly, Start the car and have friend give the car some accelerator pedal while you watch the oil filter. Look for oil around the oil filter o-ring area and also inspect your filter for pinholes...I spent a week looking for an oil leak that ended up being a small ding from a rock or something, in my oil filter. It sprayed oil all over the engine bay. I felt like an ass clown.
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Originally posted by Pale Horse:
Originally posted by bradSVT:
I also did remember to put all the sealants on the correct places. The power steering fluid has a distinct smell and I do not smell that. My oil is still very clear and the stuff dripping out of my car tastes like oil. My dipstick read max then 1000 miles later it now says min. Not sure still where it could be leaking but I feel like it has to be somewhere high up to hit the belts and spray places that you wouldn??t think a lower leak could get too. If I had a lift I am sure it would be a lot easier to tell.
Pull a few of your Plug wires out and check for oil on the ends of the wires. Secondly, Start the car and have friend give the car some accelerator pedal while you watch the oil filter. Look for oil around the oil filter o-ring area and also inspect your filter for pinholes...I spent a week looking for an oil leak that ended up being a small ding from a rock or something, in my oil filter. It sprayed oil all over the engine bay. I felt like an ass clown.
I thought it could be the oil filter but there is no oil around it and it would be very weird for oil to get from the oil filter to the flex pipe on my exhaust.
3L process done
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It could still be the oil pan gasket in the front where it meets the timing cover as that is still higher than the bottom of the crank pulley. Also , the crank seals are famous for leaking once the harmonic balancer gets a groove in it over time.
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For my issue, I ordered a new gasket and bolt from BJ, and tomorrow I'm throwing them on and see if it cures my problem. When I upgraded the engine I also put a DMD on it...I think BradSVT did the same...anyone ever hear of a bad batch or problems with them? When I get off I think I'mm gonna go over it and compare it to my old damper and see if there is any noticable differences.
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Ya I put a DMD on as well. I broke my old pulley so I had to get one. The car is going into the shop tomorrow so I will let you know what there idea is. This is really bugging me to send my car to a shop. If it costs me alot of money I need to sell my new tv instead of not getting books. I will be REALLY upset if i lose my Tv.
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Originally posted by bradSVT:
Ya I put a DMD on as well. I broke my old pulley so I had to get one. The car is going into the shop tomorrow so I will let you know what there idea is. This is really bugging me to send my car to a shop. If it costs me alot of money I need to sell my new tv instead of not getting books. I will be REALLY upset if i lose my Tv.
With all those books and School, do you really think you need a tv? hehe. Hopefully I get the problem fixed tomorrow, I'll post an update if it works or not. And hopefully the shop doesn't rape you...
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
For my issue, I ordered a new gasket and bolt from BJ, and tomorrow I'm throwing them on and see if it cures my problem. When I upgraded the engine I also put a DMD on it...I think BradSVT did the same...anyone ever hear of a bad batch or problems with them? When I get off I think I'mm gonna go over it and compare it to my old damper and see if there is any noticable differences.
I really doubt that there would be a bad batch of DMD's as it's a factory ford part.  Yes,I know, I just put alot of faith in ford products, hopefully I'm not disappointed with a rash of DMD failures.
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So the problem ended up being piping from the power steering reservoir that ended up hitting the belt some how and creating a hole. I still think along with that there is an oil leak but I guess I will see in time. It cost $137 for an hour of labor and this pipe that they charged $47 for. I guess I can??t complain since I have no other way to fix it. Hopefully I will not run into other problems anytime soon.
The bright side to this story is that I get to keep my new TV!!! haha
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Originally posted by tsSVT:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
For my issue, I ordered a new gasket and bolt from BJ, and tomorrow I'm throwing them on and see if it cures my problem. When I upgraded the engine I also put a DMD on it...I think BradSVT did the same...anyone ever hear of a bad batch or problems with them? When I get off I think I'mm gonna go over it and compare it to my old damper and see if there is any noticable differences.
I really doubt that there would be a bad batch of DMD's as it's a factory ford part. Yes,I know, I just put alot of faith in ford products, hopefully I'm not disappointed with a rash of DMD failures.
Facotry ford part, or factory anywhere part means nothing. There are standards and specs for everything, but even bad parts are missed at quality checkpoints within manufacturers hand, as well as the assmeblers. Wasn't really suspecting anything wrong with it, just figured I'd give it a once over and make sure its up to par.
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I just got back from picking up a puller to remove the DMD. I popped my hood and noticed a fading hissing sound from the back of my engine (near the timing cover, back by the firewall).
I don't remember hearing this before, but do you think it could be a possible source for a leak? (oil) I really dont want to take off my intake and remove the rear valve cover to find that everything is okay, when those valve cover seals come out, they dont like to go back in with out a little modification.
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
I just got back from picking up a puller to remove the DMD. I popped my hood and noticed a fading hissing sound from the back of my engine (near the timing cover, back by the firewall).
I don't remember hearing this before, but do you think it could be a possible source for a leak? (oil) I really dont want to take off my intake and remove the rear valve cover to find that everything is okay, when those valve cover seals come out, they dont like to go back in with out a little modification.
FAding hissing right after you shut the engine off?
IF so, its probably the AC system pressure equalizing past the expansion valve.
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Yes, Thanks war. I just neever noticed it before and thought I'd ask. Now it's time to go replace my crank seal!
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