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So get this... I overheated. I then thought, ok a hose bursted. WRONG!
The hoses are good. Looks like the thermostat wasn't opening the way it was suppose suppose to, replaced it... It's still doing the same.
Coolant Builds up in the res. tank. It doesn't get HOT, but it does get higher than it's suppose to.
Also, Im pondering the possibility of a clogged radiator?
I touch the hoses... the ones that lead to the intake plenum feel hot (left side of the motor). Which the lower radiator hose feels cold to the touch.
I don't get it... I'm stumped.
A little help please?
Sal
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
[img]http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/260278/original/CrackerBarrel.jpg[/img]
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Do you have a V6? The 2.5L's are notorious for water pump deterioration. Relatively cheap and easy fix ΓΆβ?¬β?? if nothing else damaged. Another more ominous possibility is cylinder leakage (exhaust) into the water jacket. This would be very bad news as it would indicate a bad head gasket (at best). Similar result to what you describe: coolant forced out of block under exhaust pressure into the radiator and overflow tank. A compression test might reveal it. Try replacing the waterpump first 
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Do you have a V6? The 2.5L's are notorious for water pump deterioration. Relatively cheap and easy fix ΓΆβ?¬β?? if nothing else damaged.
Another more ominous possibility is cylinder leakage (exhaust) into the water jacket. This would be very bad news as it would indicate a bad head gasket (at best). Similar result to what you describe: coolant forced out of block under exhaust pressure into the radiator and overflow tank.
A compression test might reveal it.
Try replacing the waterpump first
Ouch, don't scare me! 
You think water pump eh? Hmm... Coolant is getting forced back into the tank.
Hmm, I may try that. But there are no signs of water pump failure. Is this common?
Sal
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
[img]http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/260278/original/CrackerBarrel.jpg[/img]
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Also, how does one test the water pump? I mean, pressure is one way, but pressure comes with heat. So if it wasn't flowing, you wouldn't notice it.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Sal
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
[img]http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/260278/original/CrackerBarrel.jpg[/img]
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by SableSal:
Also, how does one test the water pump? I mean, pressure is one way, but pressure comes with heat. So if it wasn't flowing, you wouldn't notice it.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Sal
Your car is overheating. You replaced the T stat. If one side of your pipes are cold to the touch...I would say it's a safe bet that your pump is dead. IIRC yours is not the cam driven pump, so I have no personal experience with that [censored].
Get it fixed before you destroy it.
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Yeah, I don't plan on destroying it.
I have another car to drive in the meanwhile...
I'll buy a pump and go from there. Although, do the Duratec Pumps go out without warning like that? Also, this pump is not leaking and the bearing felt good. I don't get it...
Anyhow, tomorrow is another day.
Sal
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
[img]http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/260278/original/CrackerBarrel.jpg[/img]
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Originally posted by SableSal:
Yeah, I don't plan on destroying it.
I have another car to drive in the meanwhile...
I'll buy a pump and go from there. Although, do the Duratec Pumps go out without warning like that? Also, this pump is not leaking and the bearing felt good. I don't get it...
Anyhow, tomorrow is another day.
Sal
If it has that cheap plastic impellar yes it will just go.
the bearing can spin all day long, but if the impellar is gone... 
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Originally posted by SableSal:
Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Do you have a V6? The 2.5L's are notorious for water pump deterioration. Relatively cheap and easy fix ΓΆβ?¬β?? if nothing else damaged.
Another more ominous possibility is cylinder leakage (exhaust) into the water jacket. This would be very bad news as it would indicate a bad head gasket (at best). Similar result to what you describe: coolant forced out of block under exhaust pressure into the radiator and overflow tank.
A compression test might reveal it.
Try replacing the waterpump first
Ouch, don't scare me!
You think water pump eh? Hmm... Coolant is getting forced back into the tank.
Hmm, I may try that. But there are no signs of water pump failure. Is this common?
Sal
Yes I think water pump. The plastic impellor comes loose from the shaft. No leakage, bearing is still good, no water is pumped.
Localized boiling in the engine will produce enough vapor to force out coolant.
Change the water pump. Simple job.
P.S. Why did you post this in 3.0L Duratec?
Last edited by JEDsContour; 06/22/06 05:48 AM.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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LOL, Sorry... It's cause I own a Sable and it's a 3L  Thanks for the info on the pump! On the aftermarkets, is this problem corrected? Or is it usually same as factory. Sal
SHOCal Advisor / Midwest Duratec Co-Owner
[img]http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/260278/original/CrackerBarrel.jpg[/img]
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I have no life
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I have no life
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A GMB metal one. Go here and get it.
GMB Water pump
or go to Napa and get a Dura pro. The older Ford pumps with the black impellars are the ones with issue. Not sure if this was an issue on your car. If it's ealier than 99 they might have used the same material. Look for black pieces in the resevoir.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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