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I'd buy THAT for a dollar!
Wait... I DID buy that!
And, yes.. it WILL produce 400+ FWHP reliably...
Congrats on your purchase Jim!!
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Anyway, I question whether anyone at even twice that price could (practically) put together a better 3L for turbocharging than what AER offers. I'm considering the upgraded internals, ST220 cams, machining for oil squirters, additional quality control steps and such, and the fact that it�s a complete drop-in engine (I hope!); I think $4300 shipped to my door is a bargain. Only mass production allows this.
I CAN. I could do it for half that price for myself.
Originally posted by JEDsContour:
I expect this entire combination will be routinely capable of putting out over 400 FWHP without big risk of damage.
Actually, I can make a stock block duratec engine do this.... 
OK. Suffice to say that the least troublesome way for me to assure myself of a quality long block, well suited for turbo charging was to write a check to AER.
Warmonger, you�re not saying you could assemble an equivalent Noble long block for half the price that AER does? Are you? $2150?
I know trading time for money really works when applied to engine machining and assembly. I�ve built my share of inexpensive PAW small block ford kits to know that, not to mention a 390 FE and a regrettably high dollar 428 FE rebuild.
So maybe you could source the parts for less than $2150 and use your time and experience and well-equipped shop to put it together. Can you do the machining for piston squirters as well?
My engine rebuilding days are over. I never really much enjoyed that aspect of the car hobby. With the power available from forced induction and electronic tuning, I have no incentive to do the kinds of things I used to do with 60�s iron anyway.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Learned patience the hard way
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Learned patience the hard way
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Tom, sorry, but you'd be hard pressed to hit $2500 for a forged internal shortblock doing all the work yourself except for piston boring and balancing. Not to mention that is including a used shortblock to start with. $4300 is an exceptional deal for a mostly complete longblock.
Rick
Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180
Buckshot77@msn.com
Misc 3L parts for sale
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Actually, I can make a stock block duratec engine do this....
Ray...Tom...come out with it! I wanna see the numbers 
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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so the aer 3l is set up for forced induction? it cant be run NA? likely has low compression for FI. is there anything really special that they do to the engine? its a complete forged internal 3l longblock? you still have to pay for a built mtx75 to mate to the 3l right? sorry, i'm not sure what noble does for a tranny if they use the mtx75 too.
Hugo AIM:omegazodiac
95 gl & 99 contour svt #1750/2760
my profile pics stuff for sale
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Originally posted by hmouta:
so the aer 3l is set up for forced induction? it cant be run NA? likely has low compression for FI. is there anything really special that they do to the engine? its a complete forged internal 3l longblock? you still have to pay for a built mtx75 to mate to the 3l right? sorry, i'm not sure what noble does for a tranny if they use the mtx75 too.
This is from an email from Dave Walker:
Quote:
We use a custom forged aluminum piston from Wiseco which results in a compression ratio of about 8.5:1
The rods are Scat's 4340 forged H-beam with ARP 2000 bolts. (These are not the Q-Lite version)
Standard green top, 42 lb Ford Lightning injectors.
In terms of balancing and blueprinting:
Each crank is rebalanced to match the weight of the new forged rods and pistons. Each block is checked for deck height, main bore size, etc. Heads and cranks and inspected as well. Due to small variations in piston size, we measure each and every one in our climate controlled quality dept and then make very closely matched sets of six. After this, each block is honed to match the set of six pistons. We do this in order to maintain very tight control over the piston-to-bore clearance to reduce the possiblilty of piston slap from the increased clearance requirements of a forged piston.
Other items which are different:
1) The camshafts are a unique profile with increased lift and duration.
2) The block is specially machined to install piston squirters on each cylinder.
3) The accessory drive setup requires a non-stock front cover.
4) We use a special dual frequency damper for engine smoothness. This is not an underdrive or lightweight type change.
5) Lighter weight 19 lb flywheel (SVT flywheel)
Order Line (800) 753 5237, part# "L30NOBLE"
When I spoke on the phone with Dave he assured me that the engine comes complete with front cover, intake manifolds, and water pump.
Some time next week I'll have it sitting here and I will start a new thread. Seriously hijacked this one!
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Originally posted by Buckshot77:
Tom, sorry, but you'd be hard pressed to hit $2500 for a forged internal shortblock doing all the work yourself except for piston boring and balancing. Not to mention that is including a used shortblock to start with. $4300 is an exceptional deal for a mostly complete longblock.
Rick
I don't know...you get an almost new long black for about 500, rods are 1200, pistons about 700, do head work yourself, and maybe 400 machine shop work.
That's only 2800 and you have a longblock...although then you gotta get gaskets and bearings.
I got my 3L for 350 shipped to me. So about 3000 for everything plus or minus.
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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Joined: Nov 2000
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Learned patience the hard way
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Learned patience the hard way
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Gaskets- $200 +/-
Bearings $75
Head bolts or studs- $50-150
New timing assemblies- $300
DMD- $75
Flywheel- $200
42lb injectors- $200
Now tell me that you're going to pay yourself $5-10/hour to do all of that work as to do everything properly and get all of the build quality you get with one of their engines, you should spend 50-100 hours on your build and head PnP.
Rick
Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180
Buckshot77@msn.com
Misc 3L parts for sale
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Originally posted by Buckshot77:
Gaskets- $200 +/-
Bearings $75
Head bolts or studs- $50-150
New timing assemblies- $300
DMD- $75
Flywheel- $200
42lb injectors- $200
Now tell me that you're going to pay yourself $5-10/hour to do all of that work as to do everything properly and get all of the build quality you get with one of their engines, you should spend 50-100 hours on your build and head PnP.
Rick
Not To Mention The Cam Grind...Or Is This An ST220 Cam Basically?
If Not You Have To Assume Around $750.00 For Cams From Ford.UK Or Around $300.00 For A Grind (Wouldn't Do That In An Engine With Such Tolerances Or High RPM Anyway) And That's Being Conservative.
Tom, I Bet It Could be Reproduced For Around $3500-$3900 Per Longblock, But Not Half Price. I Do Know However, That You Would Be One Of The Best Candidates For The Job.
Between You And Rick, I Bet It Could Be Done In This Price Range And Done With a High Level Of Quality. <insert>:asskissinggraemlin:
CSVT E0 3L
14.5 @ 94mph, Stock Intake, Stock Exhaust minus Resonator, CEL, And Broken Pass. Side CV...Untuned.
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I for one hope you plan on showing How they installed the piston squirters. The main oil galley is easily accessable and all that would be required is tapping into it and placing a threaded nozzel in there ... only caveat would be ensuring that the nozzel is pointed correctly with no way of backing out/rotating (thread locker red SHOULD do that trick). I seriously thought about this with my block and still haven't counted it out as it's still in shortblock form with the lower block fully accessable.
Oh yeah, would also want to ensure that this setup doesn't adversly affect oil pressure further down the line somehow???
Last edited by fastcougar; 06/20/06 02:09 PM.
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