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I sounds like you may have checked it, but my old 95 use to overheat, and it was the tensionor on the water pump belt. The belt was loose and would mainly over head at higher RPMs. The tensionor was soo old was stuck. Rpelaced it and the problem went away.

Rich S.


1998 SVT 1995 Contour 2.5 MTX 215K miles Son's car(dead and buried) 1997 Contour 2.0 ATX 1998 Contour 2.5 ATX 2004 Tauras Wagon 3.0 Duratec
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I would go ahead and replace the waterpump/thermostat if you haven't already and check the cooling fans are operating. Sometimes the motors bind up and will run slowly. With the car off, keys out, see if the fans trun with equal effort and can spin by hand. I had one fan bind up.

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still got the big plastic splash gaurd thing underneath the motor? i took mine off and after i did i got the same kind of readings A/L at stop and go and R/M at highway speeds...


95 Merc Stique Zetec 2.0 Auto
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I have also gotten the water pump changed, there was leak in the pump. But still the temperature gauge is M on highways and between A and L in stop and go traffic. Could it be the cooling fan. How can I test if the cooling fan is running properly ? My mechanic told me that "if the needle does'nt go beyond L to the red area, cooling fan is alright". Is that true ?

thanks,

Last edited by ffos2; 07/09/06 08:29 AM.
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"Could it be the cooling fan. How can I test if the cooling fan is running properly ?"

Does the fan come on when it hits L? If it does, then you know it is working properly.

"My mechanic told me that "if the needle does'nt go beyond L to the red area, cooling fan is alright". Is that true ?"

I4 Zetecs do run a little hotter than the V6 Duratecs. Technically, if it is in the NORMAL range, it is considered acceptable.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Thanks again Tony ! The fan starts running when the needle is close to "L", ruuning fan makes the needle go back to M/A

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well i had the same problem before (and still have it). in traffic, the gauge will be up to A/L. So i though it was my thermostat. Got a 180 degree one (cooler than stock), and now at highway speeds of 40 or more the gauge stays at N at the highest, but if I am stuck in traffic it will go up again to A. And you guys know how it says that these cars should run on Motorcraft GOLD coolant with a 50/50 mixture?? And I had my system flushed with green coolant 50/50 again. Did the strength test and was all good....so could it be the coolant? because the car wasn't doing it beofre I changed to the green coolant.
**99 E0 CSVT

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My coolant strength is alrite ! As Tony suggested, I bougth a coolant tester, the coolant tester suspends four balls which according to the coolant tester manual is alrite.

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Originally posted by ffos2:
My coolant strength is alrite ! As Tony suggested, I bougth a coolant tester, the coolant tester suspends four balls which according to the coolant tester manual is alrite.




Coolant concentration has little to no effect on cooling system performance.

Time to lay off suggesting this for engines that appear to be running "too warm".....

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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well when i said about the coolant, i didn't mean the concentration of it, but the type of coolant. as ford suggests using the gold motorcraft, and instaed you are using XYZ green coolant from autozone...could that be cauzing a problem with running hot in heavy traffic?

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