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So I've been having a slight clunking sound coming from the front driver's side wheel area. It would usually happen at low speeds when going over a low(~1") drop off/dip. I just noticed that it happens now when I turn the wheel fast from one direction to the other, when at a stand still. I believe only when I turn it to the left 1/4 turn. So I'll turn it 1/4 turn right pretty fast, and then back left to the same position, and it will clunk. Any ideas?
Setup is: Koni/Eibach that now have ~35k miles, and everything else is factory suspension with 87k miles.
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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I have no life
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I have no life
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Sway bar bushings, end links, tie rod, or control arms.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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good question, in my 95 mystique I have this clunking noise if you move the wheel signly back and forth, never figured it out, been meaning to check the cupling to the steering rack, other then that it really isn't noticable unless you listen for it, did change the fluid partially once
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Mine does the same thing. I need to do a full overhaul soon.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
Mine does the same thing. I need to do a full overhaul soon.
I'm thinking I'll be doing the same. Something about me, not liking the idea of one side getting a new part. So I'll do both sides. Then, why only do those parts, when all the other parts are just as old? Might as well do it all! 
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Upper strut plate worn maybe, Ive seen this on a contour, it would clunk, or pop when turning on the drivers side. The shaft to the strut would shift inside the hole (very little mind you). Take the upper dust cover off (plate inside engine bay), loosen the holding bolt a little bit that is under the dust cover (you will need a allen wrench and 18mm box wrench) (no it will not fly apart, but don't remove the nut anyway, you just want to see if it will shift around inside the hole. It souldn't really move (that is side to side) but if it's worn out will. I think the plate that holds the spring was bad, not the rubber strut to body mount.
Check it after loosening the nut by leaving the hood open and have someone turn the steering back and forth. If it's bad, it's going to make noise. The nut holds everything together, but if that hole is worn out, the nut can't hold the sturt from shifting a little bit, which causes a clunk.
Last edited by jd28; 06/02/06 04:24 PM.
JD a.k.a Fingers
"Don't Panic"
'98 Contour GL 2.0L VCT ATX 88k
'98 Contour LX 2.5L MTX 120k
Street racing can kill
just less of a chance with a 2.0
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Originally posted by jd28:
Upper strut plate worn maybe,
that was my first thought.
Ryan
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Is this the rubber in the SPC camber kit, or is there another piece of rubber in the assembly?
morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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b0x @dm1n
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b0x @dm1n
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I'd be will to bet it's just a loose bolt on the sturt.
-Andy
Andy W.
The problem with America is stupidity.
I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment
for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety
labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Originally posted by Andy W.:
I'd be will to bet it's just a loose bolt on the sturt.
-Andy
I do think it's strut related, and has something to do with the sh!tty camber kit I have. Well, I replaced the passenger side with the updated plate from Thinkmoto, but had a hell of a time getting the nut off of the driver's side. It just spins, so I need to cut the old plate off, so I can get a wrench on the nut below.
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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