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After getting the motor in and up and running I got two questions.

1) Our intentions where to run the waterpump w/ the electric motors that turned the cooling fans, we ran one counter clockwise and burned it up, and ran one clockwise w/ a CPU case fan and burnd it up. Then we got the heater box fan and tried running it but it didn't last as long as the cooling fan motors.
I'm thinking im just going to have to get out my moldy cash and buy a electric one from jegs or summit.

2) I have NO bottem end, it pulls but after 3,000 RPMs it pulls like a bat out of hell and I can climb to 80-90mph in seconds, anyone got a idea? I think its because the secondaries aren't opening/closing propperly could be the problem.. and I didn't get a chip yet eaither, but like I said after 3,000 rpms, no misses, no nothing, just pure power...

Thanks, -jared

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EWP FTL!


Born again on 04/09/06 FOR SALE: Moonroof glass and motor MB sunshade PM ME!
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Jared, no offense, but unless you get a motor specifically for that type of drag that the waterpump is putting out, you're spinning your wheels. You can buy an electric pump setup through www.batinc.net that is fairly straight forward for installation.

The main caution I have for you is to check and recheck your flow circuits to make sure you're getting water everywhere in the right direction. I've seen several setups where the guys have missed a single hose fitting and completely bypassed the engine in their setup.

Rick


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Ive got an EWP with controller for sale it has less than 1000miles on it. PM me


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Well, if you are bound and determined not to use the cam driven system but still want to use the factory pump, then I suggest you relocate the pump to the front of the engine. YOu have room where the coolant resevoir is for the hoses and the pump body. You can just make a custom mount the comes of the upper motor mount. You can make a small custom pull then can bolt onto the front of the factory PS pump pulley, or you can use a slightly longer belt and make an idler system. Remember that the cam turns half the speed of the crank driven accessories so you can replace the pump shaft with a pulley twice the size in order to get the same pump speed.
I'd probably use a larger pump pulley that will run on the accessory belt with a custom bracket and hose extensions.
Either way, it can be done with the stock hardware and a little fabrication experience.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Well, I found a pump.
My dads good friend who owns the Mountain Boss Hoss here in Pennsylvania set us up w/ a eletric waterpump.. for free

As for the secondaries i guess ill have to get them working and see if I gain any more bottem end, if not I supose I will have to purchase a chip.

I saw that people didn't swap computers due to the 3.0 having a PAT system. But couldn't you take the key and get it reprogrammed @ a ford garage? Just a thought..

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You can turn PATS off all together with SCT software


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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So is it possiable to run the 3.0 computer?

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Originally posted by Jared:
So is it possiable to run the 3.0 computer?



WHy?


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Does anyone have a flow chart for the coolent for these motors? Would be greatly appreciated!

Or any advice on how the flow should be set up?

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