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99 CSVT Green/Tan
# 84 of 2760
Built on Wednesday, September 30, 1998
15.376 @ 92.00 MPH Stock
75,000Km
96 Contour GL
2.5L V6 ATX 170,000Km
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 71
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Those splines are part of the hub assembly which slides into the bearing. There are no splines on the old bearing.
I changed mine by 1st pressing the hub off the bearing. Pressed it from the backside of the knuckle. After the hub is removed, pry off the front C-clip and press the bearing off the knuckle from the backside as well.
Reassemble in reverse order. Use antiseize compound on bearing OD, ID and the hub splines.
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Thanks for the info, I see what you mean now about the two separate parts ie. hub and knuckle. First press out center part (hub with splines) then outer bearing.
99 CSVT Green/Tan
# 84 of 2760
Built on Wednesday, September 30, 1998
15.376 @ 92.00 MPH Stock
75,000Km
96 Contour GL
2.5L V6 ATX 170,000Km
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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That's my bearing (SKF)!
IF you don't install that new bearing properly you may as well not install one at all - installation method is CRITICAL for the longevity of the bearing - just ask Blu Fuz who went through 5 DEALER-INSTALLED bearings before getting one installed by me.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi:
That's my bearing (SKF)!
IF you don't install that new bearing properly you may as well not install one at all - installation method is CRITICAL for the longevity of the bearing - just ask Blu Fuz who went through 5 DEALER-INSTALLED bearings before getting one installed by me.
What do you mean by installed correctly? We pressed the old one out and pressed the new one in without too much difficulty. Everything appears to be as it was with the old bearing minus the corrosion and pitting. I thought about contacting you directly like I did before about the sensor bearing I was replacing on a piece of machinery but it seemed pretty straight forward. Is there a procedure for doing this?
99 CSVT Green/Tan
# 84 of 2760
Built on Wednesday, September 30, 1998
15.376 @ 92.00 MPH Stock
75,000Km
96 Contour GL
2.5L V6 ATX 170,000Km
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100 |
regardless of procedure, if you didn't ALSO torque the NEW, NEVER USED axle nut (aka locking spindle nut) to 208-214 FOOT lbs, then it will fail soon, too.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Originally posted by SVTCANUK:
Originally posted by Stazi:
That's my bearing (SKF)!
IF you don't install that new bearing properly you may as well not install one at all - installation method is CRITICAL for the longevity of the bearing - just ask Blu Fuz who went through 5 DEALER-INSTALLED bearings before getting one installed by me.
What do you mean by installed correctly? We pressed the old one out and pressed the new one in without too much difficulty. Everything appears to be as it was with the old bearing minus the corrosion and pitting. I thought about contacting you directly like I did before about the sensor bearing I was replacing on a piece of machinery but it seemed pretty straight forward. Is there a procedure for doing this?
If it isn't pressed in to the right position with the right load while pressing on the RIGHT place (and supporting the right areas) you brinelling the bearings and they fail in a few weeks. You don't just press on the nearest flat surface and hope for the best - that's why a lot of these el-cheapo repair shops and DIY'ers screw things up l;ike wheel bearing and other types of bearing because you can irreversibly damage them during installation.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 71
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Posts: 71 |
Press the bearing in from the outer shell(race)only. On wheel bearings inside of the rotor, I heat the rotor to 250-300 deg F and freeze the bearings. They pretty much drop right in  . But that's a bit off topic.
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Originally posted by Ray:
regardless of procedure, if you didn't ALSO torque the NEW, NEVER USED axle nut (aka locking spindle nut) to 208-214 FOOT lbs, then it will fail soon, too.
This was done, I listened to all your warnings in other threads. I guess only time will tell if the rest was done correctly.
99 CSVT Green/Tan
# 84 of 2760
Built on Wednesday, September 30, 1998
15.376 @ 92.00 MPH Stock
75,000Km
96 Contour GL
2.5L V6 ATX 170,000Km
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015 |
Originally posted by Mustang:
Press the bearing in from the outer shell(race)only.
On wheel bearings inside of the rotor, I heat the rotor to 250-300 deg F and freeze the bearings. They pretty much drop right in . But that's a bit off topic.
What about the hub? Yes you need to support the inner race when you press the hub into the bearing. 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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