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#1577031 05/23/06 11:46 PM
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Can someone help me with this problem. The speedodmeter just stoped working today.

Anyone have any ideas of what may be wrong?

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Welcome . Change the Vehicle Speed Sensor.

Read this.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/cb/ad/0900823d801bcbad.jsp

VSS change by unisys.

"VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)

I had to change my VSS late this afternoon, so I thought I would walk you guys through the process on my Duratec/CD4E. It's really not all that bad, except unplugging the connector. My symptoms were pretty simple... Bouncing/in-accurate seedo and once that was bad enough, the tranny would not shift properly.

- Secure the vehicle, in the air, safely.

- Remove your air cleaner & tubing.

- Reach down, under the brake booster, and locate the VSS connector. You can actually see it better from the bottom, just no way to actually reach it from there. It will take some serious single handed twisting to disconnect this connection, but don't give up!

- From under the car, use a 5/16" wrench to remove the single bolt from the VSS retainer. * Note that this retainer looks like it is upside down, with a tab resting on the case of the tranny. Don't fret! This is normal, but be sure to replace the retainer in the same way that it was removed.

- Grasp the sensor body and lightly wiggle it out of it's location. Use gently force when wiggling, but apply steady pressure upwards. The sensor body should slide right out. Do not jerk upwards on the sensor, when removing it, or you will run the risk of gear coming off the end of the sensor. This is not a real big deal, since the gear itself is about an inch tall. Along with the added shaft that is part of the gear, the gear assy is probably around 4 inches long. You should be able to grasp it with a pair of crooked needle nose pliers, but it would be one hella tight fit!!

- Once the sensor is out of the case and you have removed the gear assy from the sensor body, use a rag to wrap around the body of the sensor base. This part of the sensor is metal, so we don't want to damage it. Use a pair of pliers and grasp the metal part of the sensor. LIGHTLY! Do Not Squeeze Hard!! Just apply a small amount of pressure here. And use a 1" wrench on the plastic part of the body and seperate the two halfs.

- At this point, you get simply reverse. But something that I should note here... There is a seal on the metal half of the sensor base. Be sure to inspect this seal closely or better yet, just replace it. Also, be sure to clean everything really good and lube everything down with CLEAN ATF before putting it all back together.

Part number of the sensor - F-F5RZ-9E371-BC

Cost of part - 44.67 + tax = 47.80

Part was purchused from local Ford Dealer

Reason for sensor replacement - Notice about a week ago that when traveling over bumpy roads, that my speedometer would fluctuate +/- 5mph. Monday, of this week, it progressivly got worse (of course) and the speedo would actually stay at 0 when taking off from a stand still, as well as droping to 0 when I let off the gas. In only 60 miles of driving, on that day, it managed to toast the ATF I had in there, which only had about 5K on it. Yes, I have also changed my ATF as well."

Last edited by Tony2005; 05/23/06 11:59 PM.

"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by rwc387:
Can someone help me with this problem. The speedodmeter just stoped working today.

Anyone have any ideas of what may be wrong?




When posting, please tell us the year, engine size, and transmission type. Many times that will make a difference on how we answer the question.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited
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I too am having a speedo fluctuation problem. Only difference is that the dealer told me there's 2 speed sensors - 1 on the transaxle and another at the instrument cluster.

I believe my problem is the sensor in the dash. WHY? The last time I had the car on the highway the speedo was reading (240KMH) way over the speed where the fuel cutout comes in and it did not. As long as the PCM reads the transaxle sensor and not the dash sensor, this is my problem.

Of course, the dash sensor is the more expensive of the 2!

My car is an early Duratec powered MTX.



Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
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Originally posted by Bradness:
I too am having a speedo fluctuation problem. Only difference is that the dealer told me there's 2 speed sensors - 1 on the transaxle and another at the instrument cluster.

I believe my problem is the sensor in the dash. WHY? The last time I had the car on the highway the speedo was reading (240KMH) way over the speed where the fuel cutout comes in and it did not. As long as the PCM reads the transaxle sensor and not the dash sensor, this is my problem.

Of course, the dash sensor is the more expensive of the 2!

My car is an early Duratec powered MTX.





Is yours an early 1995 model? There is only one Vehicle speed sensor (unless they mean the Turbine Shaft speed sensor which is also listed as a VSS but has a different function). It is just that the early 1995 models have a cable driven speedometer.


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Tony: No, my current car is a '96. However, I have my old rebuilt '95 transaxle c/w Quaife & shifter fork upgrades sitting on the garage floor waiting to be installed. The '96 trans sure looks identical...

There is no mechanical cable connection on the '95 trans either, only electrical. Possible that this was 1 of those mid yr. changes?


Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
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Yes, only early 95 models were cable driven. I would still consider changing the Vehicle speed sensor (the one on top of the transaxle) if I were you.


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Tony: Once I do the transaxle swap, I'll know for certain which of the 2 sensors it is.

Now to get at it...


Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.

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