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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,791
Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2004
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So I won the Mirko from the SZ raffle and think I'm going to try to paint it myself. I know the body shop will quote something ridiculous for a piece that will get chipped to hell anyway. So I'm going to give this a shot anyway... Can you guys provide me with a process to do this.
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Just scuff it up with some fine sand paper, shoot some primer, couple coats of spray paint going light and even a couple times, finish with some clear coat.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,281
Captain Impound Boy
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Captain Impound Boy
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,281 |
Ill paint it for you $50 including paint
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,791
Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,791 |
Originally posted by tod "choco vag" ras: Just scuff it up with some fine sand paper, shoot some primer, couple coats of spray paint going light and even a couple times, finish with some clear coat.
What grit? Any sanding or anything in between coats and what not?
Originally posted by Decepticon: Ill paint it for you $50 including paint
Did you paint yours?
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,141
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,141 |
I used duplicolor base and clear on mine....i've had it on for about three weeks and it's got so many paint chips that i'm going to take it off and re-paint it every couple weeks.
You are a bit more fortunate however, a paint chip on a white mirko with silver paint won't show much if at all so you may not ahve to worry. I know the duplicolor clear left an awesome gloss finish while it lasted.....
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,791
Hard-core CEG'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG'er
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Josh, how do you have yours secured?
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 7,025
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Mark painted his right before SZ since I fixed a few chunks that were missing. Looks great. Just painted it with some paint and clearcoat in a can. I must warn you though, the clearcoat in a can has pretty terrible durability. I think even bugs will chip the clear, so give it 6 coats or so.
Jim Hahn
1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04
3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit
364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 498
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2004
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use duplicolor base coat but get some good heavy rustoleum enamel clear coat, enamel is VERY tough once it drys.
96' ATX Zetec- stock
96' ATX Zetec- Modded
Kenwood KDC-319
5.75"-2 MTX 12's
Roady XT
Custom door panels
Mystique Cluster/oil pressure
Getting repainted(in primer)
Pre98 Lip
SE skirts
Mystique front lip
dingless
badgeless
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,141
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by RawBurt: Josh, how do you have yours secured?
A bolt through each side.....
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,970
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Also, leave the Mirko off of the car for 30 days after spraying it. That way the paint/clear is fully cured and will be durable. Considering that it's the most damage prone area of your car, it's more than just a good idea.... it's the only way IMO. Then you can color sand it and buff it to a glass like surface and not worry about it developing a texture. Sometimes if you color sand before it's totally cured it will get a texture or an orange peel look because it hasn't fully release it's solvents.
Use tons of clear! Spray one nice and even coat on the light side, let it flash, repeat upwards of 10 times. Rattle cans don't lay down a lot of material like HVLP guns, so the more coats you can get down without sagging, dripping, crazing or the like.....the better.
Sand with 600 grit inbetween coats if you need to (crap in the finish or any minor fixes), but other wise as long as it's cleaned with a tack cloth you shouldn't need to do anything else besides let the clear flash.
DuPont makes a really good trim/door jam clear coat that comes in a rattle can. It flashes very quick and flows out very nice. You could easily get 10 coats on with this stuff. I used it the lasttime I did my front bumper/mirko and loved working with it and it's results
Last edited by TC'd Swazo; 05/22/06 06:00 PM.
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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