|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 636
Veteran CEG\'er
|
OP
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 636 |
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,788
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,788 |
Did you either unbolt the rack so it stays in place (you'll have to tie it up) or completely disconnect the steering column intermediate section from the input shaft of the rack?
Did you remove he drive axles?
Did you disconnect the lower control arms from the steering knuckles?
Did you look this up in the service manual? It has a step-by-step procedure, you know....
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 70
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 70 |
Looks to me like you left the front and back brackets of the tranny bolted to the mounts which are bolted to the subframe. So the engine is bolted to the tranny and the tranny is bolted the front and back of the subframe, so the chain holding up the motor will only allow the subframe to drop so far. To make things easy disconnect the long bolts going through the mounts, and then undo the brackets on the tranny. This way you'll have more room to get the tranny out. You can leave the front mount bolted to the subframe and I beleive you will need to undo the rear mount, which is easy anyway. Good luck
96 Mystique Black On Tan V6 MTX Port Matched 01 3L, 2.5L Cams, 2.5" Exhaust Optimized y-pipe, SVT clutch, Superchips, 3L split port LIM, SVT UIM, Intake, Mustang 65mm TB, MSDS Headers. Eibach Pro Kit, Torsen Diff., Ford Racing 17" Wheels.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 636
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 636 |
Originally posted by Avey:
Looks to me like you left the front and back brackets of the tranny bolted to the mounts which are bolted to the subframe
Yes, but I'm lowering the front subframe so it should all drop together.
Basically from what I can tell I've loosed or removed everything holding the subframe to the car. Heres a list of things:
-Removed bolt holding the steering rack to the steering column (can be seen in the one picture above)
-Removed two bolts holding subframe to drivers side.
-Loosened, but did not remove the two bolts holding the subframe to the passenger side.
-Removed bolts holding drivers side strut to control arm.
-Removed drivers side transmission mount from car (can be seen in picture above)
-Loosened nut to passenger side motor mount so motor has room to move.
I think that about covers it. I haven't unbolted the transmission from the motor yet as I want to make sure the frame will drop enough to pull it out. I also have not removed the drivers side axle.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 70
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 70 |
Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Originally posted by Avey:
Looks to me like you left the front and back brackets of the tranny bolted to the mounts which are bolted to the subframe
Yes, but I'm lowering the front subframe so it should all drop together.
Basically from what I can tell I've loosed or removed everything holding the subframe to the car. Heres a list of things:
-Removed bolt holding the steering rack to the steering column (can be seen in the one picture above)
-Removed two bolts holding subframe to drivers side.
-Loosened, but did not remove the two bolts holding the subframe to the passenger side.
-Removed bolts holding drivers side strut to control arm.
-Removed drivers side transmission mount from car (can be seen in picture above)
-Loosened nut to passenger side motor mount so motor has room to move.
I think that about covers it. I haven't unbolted the transmission from the motor yet as I want to make sure the frame will drop enough to pull it out. I also have not removed the drivers side axle.
You are going to need to pop out the ball joint the drivers side, pop out the axle from the hub. Also you didn't list removing the two 10 mm bolts holding the A/C dryer bracket to the subframe on the drivers side. I can only tell you what worked for me as I just did this like two days ago. Take out the long bolts going through the mounts, remove the rear mount and remove both the brackets bolted to the tranny. It'll won't take long. Also you can leave the drivers side axle in the tranny if it's too hard on the car. Also make sure you removed the splash shield under the car (not sure if post 98s have this?)
Think about it, if the subframe is basically part of the tranny (bolted still) and the engine is part of the tranny (bolted still) and your engine is part of the chain holding it, it can only drop so far.
BTW I just drove my car with the TORSEN installed and it's sweet, pulls so nicely through turns. Heh it feels so wrong on a FWD. 
96 Mystique Black On Tan V6 MTX Port Matched 01 3L, 2.5L Cams, 2.5" Exhaust Optimized y-pipe, SVT clutch, Superchips, 3L split port LIM, SVT UIM, Intake, Mustang 65mm TB, MSDS Headers. Eibach Pro Kit, Torsen Diff., Ford Racing 17" Wheels.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 70
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 70 |
Oh yeah go inside the car and pop out the rubber boot on the firewall, you might rip it. I just looked at your pics again and you did forget the to unbolt the a/c dryer, you're stressing the a/c lines etc. Just for clarification you leave the strut bolted to the hub on the drivers side, you only want to diconnect the ball joint from the hub. Can't tell from the pics but you also need to pop out the tie rod on the drivers side.
If you get frustrated go and take a 10 min break, these cars suck to work on 
96 Mystique Black On Tan V6 MTX Port Matched 01 3L, 2.5L Cams, 2.5" Exhaust Optimized y-pipe, SVT clutch, Superchips, 3L split port LIM, SVT UIM, Intake, Mustang 65mm TB, MSDS Headers. Eibach Pro Kit, Torsen Diff., Ford Racing 17" Wheels.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 636
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 636 |
Originally posted by Avey:
I just looked at your pics again and you did forget the to unbolt the a/c dryer, you're stressing the a/c lines etc
Yea your right I didn't. It looked as if the lines were bolted to the the inner fender and not the subframe, I guess I didn't look close enough.
Originally posted by Avey:
Just for clarification you leave the strut bolted to the hub on the drivers side, you only want to diconnect the ball joint from the hub.
Why does it matter if you leave the strut bolted or unbolted? I already removed it from the control arm.
Originally posted by Avey:
Can't tell from the pics but you also need to pop out the tie rod on the drivers side.
Yes I forgot to mention that. I did unbolt everything in the drivers side wheel well. Including the brake caliper, brake lines, as well as the tie rod. So there is nothing connecting the car to the lower control arm anymore.
So just to recap I need to unbolt the A/C dryer, remove the steering boot so I don't rip it, and remove ball joint from the hub and I should be good to go?
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 70
CEG\'er
|
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 70 |
Originally posted by Avey:
Just for clarification you leave the strut bolted to the hub on the drivers side, you only want to diconnect the ball joint from the hub.
Quote:
Why does it matter if you leave the strut bolted or unbolted? I already removed it from the control arm.
I mentioned this incase you were trying to drop the steering knuckle with the control arm off the strut.
Quote:
So just to recap I need to unbolt the A/C dryer, remove the steering boot so I don't rip it, and remove ball joint from the hub and I should be good to go?
The idea was to leave the brakes and everything as one piece and just remove the balljoint and tie rod from the knuckle.
Sounds like your good as long as your pulling out the mounts from the tranny to the subframe as well. The tranny is not super heavy, just unbolt it from the subframe mounts and shove a floor jack under it to support the weight, and when your ready pull it over the subframe by hand, ideally you would want someone to help you lift it over. You might have enough room to work to change the clutch just by supporting the tranny with the floor jack and moving it over a bit, but it might be tight to change the TOB inside the bell housing. You'll save a lot of time by lifting the tranny over the subframe and out of the way, give youself enough room to work. I can't comment on how much of a B*tch it is to remove the shift cables etc, as I have a rod shift tranny but I can tell you it's a nightmare to try and remove the shifter rod from the tranny.
BTW what kind of clutch you putting in?
Last edited by Avey; 05/21/06 09:32 PM.
96 Mystique Black On Tan V6 MTX Port Matched 01 3L, 2.5L Cams, 2.5" Exhaust Optimized y-pipe, SVT clutch, Superchips, 3L split port LIM, SVT UIM, Intake, Mustang 65mm TB, MSDS Headers. Eibach Pro Kit, Torsen Diff., Ford Racing 17" Wheels.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 636
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 636 |
Originally posted by Avey:
BTW what kind of clutch you putting in?
SPEC stage I, which is what is in it now. The thing is the clutch that's in there now has only 14k on it. So hopefully when I pull it I can find out why it went out so damn quick. At least I'm personally putting the new one in so I will know that everything is connected correctly. I guess this will give me that extra peace of mind.
Taking the shift cables off is a piece of cake? They snap right off, done deal. Oh I also have upgraded to the focus shift tower so maybe that's why you where thinking it was difficult. Although I don't recall what the orignal ones look like anymore.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
Just glanced over the thread, so forgive the repost/oversight on my part, but I didn't see where you listed removing the strut tower bolts 
|
|
|
|
|
