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Originally posted by SVT4STD:
Originally posted by morbid:
dood... you almost made me spray my monitor. That owl cracks me up.

Anyways... slightly OT, but it is possible to convert to 4 bolt from 2 bolt? Is it just the subframe and the arm, or is there more to it?




I think so but I'll wait for someone to answer for sure. I'd like to do this conversion to my 2000 since I have a 98 parts car available with subframe.






off hand I don't see why not, the subframe bolt points seem the same on all the V6's I have worked on, The suspension geometry has to be the same but I am not sure, since the mounts are interchangable then that part of the frame would have to be the same

Tony you might just have to try it out and see


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Originally posted by todras:
Originally posted by Pale Horse:

Something I Noticed From This Pic...Is That Looks Like The New Replacement Ball Joint From MOOG, Which Uses Internal Lubrication And Eliminates The Grease Boot. Greasing Is Now In The Form Of A Zert In the Bottom Of The Ball Joint.




You KNow ForD Makes THem Liek That 2 nOw rIgHt?




No I Didn't Know That... Do You Know Off Hand What The Price Is For The Ford Part?? I Don't Frequent The Stealership At All Anymore, Unless The Part Cant Be Had Somewhere Else And We Can't Fabricate It.


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$19 from Bill Jenkins.


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Originally posted by morbid:
.. slightly OT, but it is possible to convert to 4 bolt from 2 bolt? Is it just the subframe and the arm, or is there more to it?




It's necessary to replace the subframe if you want to use the superior 4 bolt A arms. I've had my subframe out and it is definitely not a job for beginners. Replacing the rubber subframe to chassis bushings are a huge PITA!

As an aside, has anyone priced up ball joints? In the past, my bushings never outlasted the ball joints, but the ones I'm making now will be totally rebuildable (bushings & ball joints).


Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
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Originally posted by Bradness:


It's necessary to replace the subframe if you want to use the superior 4 bolt A arms. I've had my subframe out and it is definitely not a job for beginners. Replacing the rubber subframe to chassis bushings are a huge PITA!

As an aside, has anyone priced up ball joints? In the past, my bushings never outlasted the ball joints, but the ones I'm making now will be totally rebuildable (bushings & ball joints).




I Just Bought The MOOG Ball Joints From O'Really's @ 37.70 With My 10% Discount. As Posted Above, They Are The New And Improved Ball Joints That I Have Been Informed That Ford Sells Now As Well (Style, Not Manufacturer). Thay Come With Mounting Hardware, Not Sure Of Grade Yet. I Haven't Open The Hardware Packet, A Zert Fitting, And The Dust Cover...Which Could Be Very Easily Replaced With The Poly Urethane Boot/Cover From "Prothane".


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Originally posted by todras:
$19 from Bill Jenkins.




[will farrel/on=anchorman] By The Beard Of Zeus That's Cheap!!! [will farrel/off]


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Originally posted by Bradness:


As an aside, has anyone priced up ball joints? In the past, my bushings never outlasted the ball joints, but the ones I'm making now will be totally rebuildable (bushings & ball joints).




Umm look at the post above this one. $19 from Bill Jenkins. Just drill/grind out the rivets and bolt em on.

Part # F5RZ-3V078-B

Edit: They are $28 from Bill. They must have gone up a little. Still better than replacing the LCA if they are in good shape!


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What is the latest here folks? I am very interested in a set of these LCA's. Group buy going ahead?


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I'm still waiting for my adjustable ones to arrive.
2 weeks they told me and its now 5 weeks tomorrow


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Have they shipped yet? Buying things from overseas is always a hassle.


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