|
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 193
CEG\'er
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 193 |
I have a really bad clunk sound from the rear and the tail end gets loose over bumps, so I took my SVT to a local shop to have them install some OEM struts that bought from Ford. I thought that just replacing the struts would be the fix. I asked the tech to look for anything that might look like a problem. The tech told me that everything looked fine but the upper rear mounts. He said they collapsed. I didn't have 2 days to wait for the Ford parts so I just had him install the struts. After having the new struts in, the ride, handling and sounds are EXACTLY the same. Can't stand it. Now I have to pay the labor to install $30 in parts.
I didn't know that a mount can collapse. I thought the SVT's had steel mounts.
99 SVT Black/Midnight
1462 out 2760
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
|
I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
I'm not sure how the mounts collapse but I guess it can happen.
Why don't you do the work yourself? The rears are easy.
Also check everything else out, like sway bar bushings and end links. Though what you're describing does sound strut related.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,867
Hard-core CEG'er
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,867 |
Originally posted by ChiliSVT: I have a really bad clunk sound from the rear and the tail end gets loose over bumps, so I took my SVT to a local shop to have them install some OEM struts that bought from Ford. I thought that just replacing the struts would be the fix. I asked the tech to look for anything that might look like a problem. The tech told me that everything looked fine but the upper rear mounts. He said they collapsed. I didn't have 2 days to wait for the Ford parts so I just had him install the struts. After having the new struts in, the ride, handling and sounds are EXACTLY the same. Can't stand it. Now I have to pay the labor to install $30 in parts.
I didn't know that a mount can collapse. I thought the SVT's had steel mounts.
The mounts are steel and rubber.
My struts, springs, and upper mounts are brand new, and I still have clunking. Still trying to isolate it.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 218
CEG\'er
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 218 |
I'd be willing to bet it's a sway bar issue.Look at the mounts on the subframe,you can see them with a flashlight while the car is on the ground.The mount should be parallel with the ground.
2000 Silver SVT
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 193
CEG\'er
|
OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 193 |
Originally posted by tsSVT: I'd be willing to bet it's a sway bar issue.Look at the mounts on the subframe,you can see them with a flashlight while the car is on the ground.The mount should be parallel with the ground.
That might explain why the car gets loose over bumps?
99 SVT Black/Midnight
1462 out 2760
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117
Hard-core CEG'er
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 7,117 |
Originally posted by tsSVT: I'd be willing to bet it's a sway bar issue.
The sway bar mount may have broken loose, or you have an end link that has given out. $0.02 given...
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,301
Addicted CEG\'er
|
Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,301 |
Originally posted by RogerB: Originally posted by ChiliSVT: I have a really bad clunk sound from the rear and the tail end gets loose over bumps, so I took my SVT to a local shop to have them install some OEM struts that bought from Ford. I thought that just replacing the struts would be the fix. I asked the tech to look for anything that might look like a problem. The tech told me that everything looked fine but the upper rear mounts. He said they collapsed. I didn't have 2 days to wait for the Ford parts so I just had him install the struts. After having the new struts in, the ride, handling and sounds are EXACTLY the same. Can't stand it. Now I have to pay the labor to install $30 in parts.
I didn't know that a mount can collapse. I thought the SVT's had steel mounts.
The mounts are steel and rubber.
My struts, springs, and upper mounts are brand new, and I still have clunking. Still trying to isolate it.
If you find the source, PM me. I have the same problem with new struts, mounts, endlinks and bushings, and boxed sway bar mounts. Driving me crazy.
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 225
CEG\'er
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 225 |
Well, I do believe that I can also be added to this list. Same situation with all the same new parts as the previous list minus the boxed mounts. However I have thoroughly inspected the undercarriage and I am sure that my mounts are still good. Is there any chance that badly blown bearings could be a cause of this? It is definitly only coming from my drivers side rear and I cannot get it to clunk at all unless driving it. I am running out of ideas and parts to replace.
99 csvt
68 cuda fastback 340
00 gp gtp (wife)
01 gs500
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
|
I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
My blown rear struts did clunk some.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 291
CEG\'er
|
CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 291 |
You'll need to provide more details if you wish help. When does the clunk/noise occur? Do you have aftermarket parts in your car? Bigger rr sway bars and/or lowering springs almost always lead to the inevitable "clunk".
Why? Because the suspension geometry has been compromised. Lowering springs shorten the distance from the main control arm (location of the end link) to the sway bar. The lever arm portion of the sway bar SHOULD ALWAYS BE HORIZONTAL at normal ride height. Therefore, if you lower the car, the end links should be shortened the same distance.
In terms of the sway bar, the kink is often located at the wrong side of the car (don't laugh as I've seen it many, many times). There's also very little space where the sway bar is located and the increased diameter often causes rubbing on the subframe. The clue is shiny metal anywhere on the sway bar. Only problem is that to correctly diagnose this problem you usually have to remove the sway bar.
Redcoat Raceworks. Performance parts and custom fabricating for Contours, Mystiques and Cougars. Specializing in chassis and suspension parts. Custom end links, control arms, strut tower bars, engine torque braces, etc.
|
|
|
|
|