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Or you MAF might be dirty ... have you cleaned your MAF sensor? Do you know how?
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Cleaned it a year ago with my last intake cleaning. I forgot to mention that this was something I hadn't done yet with the new intake rebuild. I'll give it a shot. But with everything I've done, I swear it's fixed. I'll drive it all that day, and the rpm's sit perfect at ~700rpms, no bouncing idle, and no dying. Then, the next day is when the rough idle comes back. This scenerio happened with: cleaning the IAC replacing intake gaskets putting in an EGR gasket that wasn't there.  Each time I swore it was fixed for good. The next day is when it starts to happen again. Each time I've reset the battery. Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Joined: May 2000
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3 words: Spark Plug Gap!
Ensure that ALL the spark plugs are gapped the EXACT Same and gap them a little on the low side. Spec calls for .054 IIRC ... gap them all to .050 and see what happens. My wife's 1996 Explorer had the same exact problem ... regapping slightly smaller cured the problem for good.
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Cleaned it a year ago with my last intake cleaning. I forgot to mention that this was something I hadn't done yet with the new intake rebuild. I'll give it a shot. But with everything I've done, I swear it's fixed. I'll drive it all that day, and the rpm's sit perfect at ~700rpms, no bouncing idle, and no dying. Then, the next day is when the rough idle comes back.
This scenerio happened with:
cleaning the IAC
replacing intake gaskets
putting in an EGR gasket that wasn't there.
Each time I swore it was fixed for good. The next day is when it starts to happen again. Each time I've reset the battery.
Mark
Pull the battery cable and kill the long term memory in the pcm.
This will force the pcm to relearn everything. It could be that as the pcm is learning it starts to develop issues.
If the car runs and idles good at first after the battery reset, then gets bad over time, you probably have to set a few things related to engine displacement and commanded A/F.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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I'll have to try that. Everything I've seen on here with the FAQ's and other random posts call for .054, so that's what we gapped them at. If cleaning the MAF, swapping out the T/B and hose clamping that hose doesn't work, I'll re-gap the plugs.
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Neutral Idle Air values need to be re done.
2001 Lincoln LS8
1994 Lexus GS300
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Originally posted by Keyser:
Neutral Idle Air values need to be re done.
Soooo, basically I'm just chasing my own tail?
Are there certain perameters that I can reference for my tuner, so he can make sure they're correct? I don't know enough about tuning(why I didn't get the PRP), so I might be way off with the question I just asked you. Any insight on what the neutral idle air values should be?
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Are you worried about the Lean codes and running only 19# injectors? I assume your babying it till you get 24#'ers tuned? Sorry I didn't read the book just skimmed so I apologize if you stated that 
I offer PnP Heads for all durtec's details at PnPheads.com or jesse@pnpheads.com for details.
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I still don't see why you would be running that lean. Every 3L I've built runs perfect on the 19lb injectors. The ones I had dyno tuned had the air/fuel spot on before the tune. I'd check for a vacuum leak as with the codes for both banks lean it sounds like a vacuum leak before the intake manifold. Check the intake with carb cleaner or starter fluid to see if the car revs up.
1999 3.0L Cougar: 220fwhp and 200tq
2003 VW Passat W8 with 4 Motion AWD
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/300644
PM for intrest in 3L SVT Contours, 3L swaps into your current car, Prepped 3L engines, or anything 3L related.
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Originally posted by Blackcoog:
I still don't see why you would be running that lean. Every 3L I've built runs perfect on the 19lb injectors. The ones I had dyno tuned had the air/fuel spot on before the tune. I'd check for a vacuum leak as with the codes for both banks lean it sounds like a vacuum leak before the intake manifold. Check the intake with carb cleaner or starter fluid to see if the car revs up.
As were my experiences and many others who actually got theirs tuned and running right.
Hell, using stock 2.5L SVT code and hardware you'll make more power and have less headaches than any normal mail order tune.
Just my advice.........
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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