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Joined: Mar 2005
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 241 |
I just got my car back from the shop, Spec Stage 1 clutch and Spec flyhweel were installed. They grip great, however my clutch pedal is so soft its almost limp, and it seems the point at which it grabs is right about when the pedal is almost fully returned to its stationary posistion. Is there anyway to firm it up? Should I go back and make them fix it? In its current state, driveability is not very good and I dont wanna destroy a brand new clutch.
if you need it, '99 SE 2.5L MTX(obviously)
'99 SilFro SE V6 MTX
Alpine CDA-9833, 12" L7, Pioneer 6x8's, Fidanza Short Throw, K&N Drop-In, Spec1 Clutch/Flywheel, WR Headers / Y-Pipe, TBz Cat, PRT Roll Resistors
Mods in queue:
Trubendz Res. Magnaflow Ex.
SVT UIM/LIM/Opt.TB
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Might need some more bleeding.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 241
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 241 |
How hard is that to do? Or should I take it back and make them do it? I would think for $855.15 they would check things like this 
'99 SilFro SE V6 MTX
Alpine CDA-9833, 12" L7, Pioneer 6x8's, Fidanza Short Throw, K&N Drop-In, Spec1 Clutch/Flywheel, WR Headers / Y-Pipe, TBz Cat, PRT Roll Resistors
Mods in queue:
Trubendz Res. Magnaflow Ex.
SVT UIM/LIM/Opt.TB
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
LOL! You got a deal. I know a dealer charges Around $1100. It's as easy as bleeding the brakes. Have someone hold the clutch in. Loosen the bleeder valve on the trans and tighten. Don't let them take their foot off the clutch until you tighten it down. Repeat.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,854
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Might need some more bleeding.
I would bleed it too if he thinks it feels that weird...but any clutch you put in these cars bites pretty high no??
I mean, in my car i can literally tap the clutch to shift it (push it maybe an inch or two). It's always been that way.
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#609 of 2760
Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 241
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
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Originally posted by todras:
LOL! You got a deal. I know a dealer charges Around $1100. It's as easy as bleeding the brakes. Have someone hold the clutch in. Loosen the bleeder valve on the trans and tighten. Don't let them take their foot off the clutch until you tighten it down. Repeat.
It's the cheapest I could get around here, everyone either hung up on me or said they wouldnt touch it. I would have loved to have stazi do it, but between getting my ass to michigan, getting a hotel / gas / food etc. it wasnt worth the trouble. I can do small stuff, but who am I kidding im not gonna [censored] around with big stuff like tranny pulls.
'99 SilFro SE V6 MTX
Alpine CDA-9833, 12" L7, Pioneer 6x8's, Fidanza Short Throw, K&N Drop-In, Spec1 Clutch/Flywheel, WR Headers / Y-Pipe, TBz Cat, PRT Roll Resistors
Mods in queue:
Trubendz Res. Magnaflow Ex.
SVT UIM/LIM/Opt.TB
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by todras:
LOL! You got a deal. I know a dealer charges Around $1100. It's as easy as bleeding the brakes. Have someone hold the clutch in. Loosen the bleeder valve on the trans and tighten. Don't let them take their foot off the clutch until you tighten it down. Repeat.
I think I should add that in addition to the two-man pressure bleeding you discussed, this can be done by gravity bleeding.
I found this out working on it but if you keep the brake resevoir full with the cap off and crack open the bleeder screw a couple turns and wait, then fluid will start to flow down on its own and push the air out. When you get a good stream you shut it off, refill the resevoir, pump the clutch pedal a few times, then crack it open again and verify.
Works great every time I've done it.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 35
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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Posts: 35 |
yeah guess you could bleed it, but normally when it engages high, then the clutch itself is the problem.
now in my car, it engages at the very top of pedal travel. its got about 5,000 miles on it and i noticed it like this about 1,000 miles into driving on it. it use to engage half way between. but i can too tap the pedal and have it disengage. i love how my saturn was just off the floor and with the act 6 puck clutch, it would spring off the floor and engage instantly instead of having to wait till the top of the travel to engage.
1997 Saturn SL2-project car (salvaged now, current tear down)
1996 Ford Contour-DD, up and running again
STC-OH member
My SL2 and other cars
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