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Well this is my first time working on the contour, and I have to say that it's really been worth the time and effort. Those that are worried about trying this fix should just go for it! It's really worth the experience and knowledge you gain about your car. Plus it's not that bad, so you'll encounter a few issues, but I feel it's worth it! Here's what I've got going wrong now...

Two Known Issues:
Sorry if this is confusing and not very specific...
(1)On the top of the UIM there are the two black hoses that everyone posts about not knowing how to remove. Well in moving parts around and tightening things down I some how snapped the one that goes into the rear hole in half at the center plastic joint.

(2) The Green hose coming off of the EGR that is brittle and breaks, well that DID NOT break. However, there are a group of thin red hoses around it. One of those snapped in half. Which One???? I'll try to explain it... During the UIM removal there is a plastic piece on the back of the UIM (guide calls it the EVR) that requires two bolts to be removed. This EVR has a tube running off of it that comes to a T-split. The bottom red tube on the T-Split that runs to a bundle of other red tubes (this bundle of tubes is attached to the front hole black UIM hose) snapped in half.

Anyways this all happened at 11:30 last night, and work starts at 6:30... so I did a rather crude tape job to try and seal these hose back together (yes I know the proper fix, but I was tired and had no methods of obtaining new tubing or sealant). I really just wanted to see if the car would start, I'm not going to drive it anytime soon so I just went with a simple attempt at sealing it with tape.

My question... even with these hoses more than likely leaking, should the car still start? There's going to be a permanent fix on the hoses, but I'd like to get the car running first.

I'm not sure what the issue is... when I turn the key I hear a hum and then a fast ticking sound. There's no firing up of the engine. Possibly I've lost compression and need to attempt the oil fix that everyone uses?

Sorry for the lengthy post, but any help would be appreciated!!! Thanks in Advance!!! (Yes I Searched! But like my UIM/LIM rebuild it might not have been the best )


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Is it turning over? I know which two you mean, but if you patched them well enough, it should at least try to start, than give a CEL code. FWIW, I had to replace my plugs when I did the UIM/LIM rebuild.


Scott Mabe I WILL be Phil. 1999 Contour SVT, Tropic Green BAT kit, K&N RU-3530+MAF, Magnecore 8.5mm, some audio goodies, Hightowers, Knauberized, tatoo by Parkedcar.
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Is the engine spinning? It sounds like your battery might be dead, if it's not.


I'd get those hoses fixed. If you have a very big vacuum leak the car won't run.


-Philip Maynard '95 Contour [71 STS | Track Whore] '97 Miata [71 ES | Boulevard Pimp] 2006 autocross results
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Try holding the gas to the floor while starting.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Not to provide any more information here. But to break something during the work, or to not be able to start after it's done, was exactly the thing I feared about. So I hired one truely knowledgeable CEGer to get it done. And I am very happy for the decision I made, and the smooth drive the car became afterwards.


98 Silver Frost E0 SVT. 1011/6535. DOB 05/16/97 Owned since new. Optimized y-pipe. Bosal Exhaust w/ silencer inserts. K&N intake w/ MAF. Ford Racing 9mm wires. 05 Saab 9-2X Aero Satin Grey. Cobbs Accessport Stage 2.
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Originally posted by getsum111:
Is it turning over? I know which two you mean, but if you patched them well enough, it should at least try to start, than give a CEL code. FWIW, I had to replace my plugs when I did the UIM/LIM rebuild.




Me too, i think doing the rebuild fouls the plugs or something cause mine needed to be changed for the car to not misfire.


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


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even with the hoses broken, it should start, albeit roughly maybe.

my guess: too much cleaner leaked into the chambers and it's locking up; that happened to me. disconnect the fuel pump fuse, take out the spark plugs, stuff the holes with rags, and crank the engine. If you my guess is correct, you'll have a nice mess on your hands as the engine blows it out like a whale (the rags are important)

Once most of the fluid is absorbed, take out the rags, let it air out for about 30 minutes, reinstall the spark plugs, reconnect the fuse, and it should start straight away.


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That could be it, too. I let mine airout overnight as we drank beer!


Scott Mabe I WILL be Phil. 1999 Contour SVT, Tropic Green BAT kit, K&N RU-3530+MAF, Magnecore 8.5mm, some audio goodies, Hightowers, Knauberized, tatoo by Parkedcar.
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When I did mine, it took like what seemed to be forever for the fuel rail to properly pessurize and purge all the air out of it so it could fire...

Steve


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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I doubt that any cleaner went down into the chambers of the engine. I took the UIM and LIM off, cleaned them, and let them dry overnight. The openings below the LIM appeared clean, and I wanted to avoid getting cleaner down in the engine so I didn't even use cleaner down there.

I'm not ruling any possibilities out, and I appreciate all the suggestions!

When forums say things like, "crank the engine" is that talking about cranking it by hand? Another item... when I'm turning the key to start the car, should I be pushing on the gas pedal... I figured that would flood the engine if its not firing. Sorry for any dumb questions or statements.



2005 S/C Monte Carlo SS 1995 Contour SE
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