Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 92
G
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
G
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 92
Yea tried the nonfouler fix but only used one per sensor and still get a CEL.Might try with two of the,still be cheaper then the res and cap. would be from Radio Shack.

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,097
S
Hard-core CEG\'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG\'er
S
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,097
you have to use 2...you have to get the o2 out of the exhaust path.

but when you use 2 you have to drill all the way through them (they taper) and the sensor will bottom out. Just drill through one of them an you'll be good.


98 E0 SVT with some stuff
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 46
C
New CEG\'er
Offline
New CEG\'er
C
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 46
Originally posted by GrimmSVT:
Yea tried the nonfouler fix but only used one per sensor and still get a CEL.Might try with two of the,still be cheaper then the res and cap. would be from Radio Shack.





cheaper then what??? The res and cap are like $2 from radio shack and took me like 10 mins to make???

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
W
Hard-core CEG'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
W
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Originally posted by GrimmSVT:
Yea tried the nonfouler fix but only used one per sensor and still get a CEL.Might try with two of the,still be cheaper then the res and cap. would be from Radio Shack.




Hahaha, No Way!

The mechanical method is a bunch more work and is hit or miss.

The electrical method requires no drilling and such costs very little and takes only enough time to read the schematic and solder it together, tape up and put back.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 92
G
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
G
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 92
Ok I will try the circuit method but I still need pics or a simplified explanation of the circuit board.Last time I was going to get the stuff the price was over 15.00 for the parts that the schematic has listed.I understand where the resistor goes just not the cap.

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 46
C
New CEG\'er
Offline
New CEG\'er
C
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 46
OK seriously... I found this in 30 seconds using the search function. It was very simple, I clicked search at the top of the page. I typed in "mil eliminators" I changed the search option from "Announcments" to "General Mods". I then asked to see the posts from "newer than 6 months" I clicked on, "how to make MIL ELIMINATORS". I read down about 5 posts and this was posted. If that was too hard than I fear what this instructions will do to you!!! But for those who are not faint of heart they are.......

Also, THANKS "warmonger" as these were originally posted by him.

Also for clarification, The uF capcitor is $0.99 for one at Radio Shack. I bought one less than a month ago. The Megaohm
resistors come in packs of 5 and are also $0.99. Electrical Tape $0.99 for a whole roll. If you have a soldering iron great if not you probably know someone who does, just ask. I bet they will even let you use some of their solder. MY POINT: Total Cost $3.00. If you have a 2.5 you need 2 capacitors. Total Cost $4.00

Parts:

1 uF capacitor
1Megaohm resistor

Tools:
soldering iron
wire cutters/strippers
solder
heat shrinks tubing
Tape
piece of hose or conduit
zip ties
rtv silicone


Wire the resistor in series on the signal wire out of the o2 sensor; that means cut the wire and solder in the resistor inline (gray wire) between the sensor body and the plug.

Wire the capacitor in parallel with the sensor, that means solder the capacitor from the signal (gray) wire to the ground wire (black wire). No need to cut the ground wire just cut off some insulation.
Connect the capacitor to the plug side of the solder joint where you hooked in the resistor on the signal (gray) wire.

After cutting the gray wire slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing on one of the wires. After soldering the two parts onto the sensor harness slide up the tubing to cover as much of the parts as possible.
Shrink it with heat. Tape any remaining exposed wires. Put the hose or conduit around the parts and taped wires. Zip tie it tight. Put RTV sealant along the seam and at the ends of the hose/conduit to seal it from moisture.

Repeat for the other side.
Now these O2 sensors are permanently set up to eliminate the MIL and they plug in normally.

Don't cut the two white sensor wires, those are the heater circuit.


** Oh yeah, the insulation on the wires is tough, Teflon insulation. The RTV sticks well but not much else does. THe wires also take a lot of heat for the solder to stick well so make sure the joints are good. Not hard, just pay attention to detail. You don't necessarily need any heat shrink tubing just use tape if you are going to seal the hose/conduit with RTV silicone afterwards.**

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 92
G
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
G
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 92
That helped a lot,thanks.I have searched before but it had been awhile so it might of been before the post.Looking at the schematic it makes sense now,just couldn't figure out how the cap.would do anything when connected to the grey and black wires so I guessed that was not what the schematic said. As far as the price,that was with the circuit boards and all the connectors.I guess I get to go down to Radio Shack and see if the still have the parts.The one close to me mostly has TV,VCR stuff not a lot of circuit components.

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 46
C
New CEG\'er
Offline
New CEG\'er
C
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 46
I didn't use the circuit board and all that I just soldered directly to the wire and it worked great but good luck! Let me know how it turns out!

Page 2 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  GTO Pete 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5