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Joined: May 2004
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So I'll be replacing my SPEC stage 1 clutch with another one (more then likely) next weekend. I've got the replacement SPEC clutch on order and it should arrive at my house on Wed. So my question is what is the best way to replace the turd?
I'm crossing my fingers that I don't have to do it as my clutch appears to be getting better. The car hasn't slipped as much the last few days, which makes me wonder if it some how got oil on it or something. Either way I'll have a replacement for it come dooms day.
So again whats the best method to go about taking the clutch out? Thanks in advance.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 496
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
So I'll be replacing my SPEC stage 1 clutch with another one (more then likely) next weekend. I've got the replacement SPEC clutch on order and it should arrive at my house on Wed. So my question is what is the best way to replace the turd?
I'm crossing my fingers that I don't have to do it as my clutch appears to be getting better. The car hasn't slipped as much the last few days, which makes me wonder if it some how got oil on it or something. Either way I'll have a replacement for it come dooms day.
So again whats the best method to go about taking the clutch out? Thanks in advance.
So you didn't read what I posted about sometimes burning a clutch and causing it to glaze, and consequently it slips? Then I pointed out that you can just continue to drive normal on it like on the verge of slipping for a while so that it will wear down through the glazed surface and restore most of its former clamp strenght, if not all?
I'd hold on to the new spec disk and continue to drive and test it until you fine out if it gets better or if you need to really replace it.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by warmonger:
So you didn't read what I posted...
Oh no Tom I did read what you posted. I purchased the clutch just as a back up. I want to know what I'm getting into before I actually go through with it. That way I can plan ahead to make sure I have everything at my house that I will need. A lot of my tools including my engine hoist are still at my parents place as I have not moved everything over to the house I bought. All I have here are my ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers, and open end wrenches with a few misc. wiring tools (basically the first two portions of my tool box, the bottom sections are still at my parents place.)
I do plan to continue driving it to see if it gets better, but I'd rather be safe then sorry if it does decide to crap out on me.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,361
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by CSVT#49:
So I'll be replacing my SPEC stage 1 clutch with another one (more then likely) next weekend. I've got the replacement SPEC clutch on order and it should arrive at my house on Wed. So my question is what is the best way to replace the turd?
I'm crossing my fingers that I don't have to do it as my clutch appears to be getting better. The car hasn't slipped as much the last few days, which makes me wonder if it some how got oil on it or something. Either way I'll have a replacement for it come dooms day.
So again whats the best method to go about taking the clutch out? Thanks in advance.
So you didn't read what I posted about sometimes burning a clutch and causing it to glaze, and consequently it slips? Then I pointed out that you can just continue to drive normal on it like on the verge of slipping for a while so that it will wear down through the glazed surface and restore most of its former clamp strenght, if not all?
I'd hold on to the new spec disk and continue to drive and test it until you fine out if it gets better or if you need to really replace it.
I've been following these posts and wondering if I'm experiencing the same thing. I have a Centerforce DF that started slipping at 35K, so I stopped driving it. Same deal...slips in higher gears. I think I'm going to start driving it around a bit, to wear off a possible glaze as you have mentioned.
My question is at what point do I go ahead and condemn the clutch? Will it get worse before it gets better? Right now it only really slips in third, but that's shifting out of first (my 2nd gear synchro is toast). Please let me know your opinions.
'98 SVT Contour, in at least 639 pieces 
4 Speed MTX...synchro and shift fork replacement in progress 
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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You probably made it worse quickly by skipping the 2nd gear shift all the time. The clutch may be beyond repair and the reason is that there is a bigger change in engine rpm with each shift going from 1-3 than from 1-2. It would at least double the amount of slippage with each shift.
I think you will have to pull it and fix the bad synchro before you can remedy the clutch and you will replace the clutch when you do that so it is a moot point.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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