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Veteran CEG\'er
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hrm... I'll have to search my emails and stuff to see where I got that from.
morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 6,106
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Not to hijack, but is this the part# people are using for the RP Syncromax?
RPO-RP01512
It's $8.95/qt. from Summitracing, but I thought I'd check around town first. Wanted to confirm. Thanks!
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Haven't gone by part #. Just go by the name. Only one Synchromax by RP.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 6,106
Addicted CEG\'er
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:
Haven't gone by part #. Just go by the name. Only one Synchromax by RP.
Awesome! I figured that, but knowing how this whole debate goes...... Anyway, found it for $8.04/qt. locally, and they only have 3 quarts left on the shelf. 
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,165
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Pump pump pump pump it up!! $5.00 at murray's and fits right on the Honey bottle:  This is the package it came in: 
I live in Detroit, I couldn't give a **** how good my car is in the "twisties."
"I could use a hundred people who don't know there is such a word as impossible."
~Henry Ford
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 595
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
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Originally posted by morbid:
Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:
Originally posted by Tisby:
IMO Ford Honey is too expensive to use for either (A) and break-in or (B)a "flush." That's the end of my reasoning. 
Break in? There is no break in. If there was a break in wouldn't Ford advise that when you picked up your car from the dealer. Just run what you're going to to be it Synchromax or Honey. Even after a rebuild. Their is a magnet in the trans to pick up any particles should their be any.
Todd... you know that contradicts what Terry advises for his trannys. He told me to run dino ATF for the first 750 miles.
I just talked to Terry. He said that the days of ATF and friction modifier are over. Do not, he says, put ATF in the MTX-75. He recommends the Ford honey, but he says the RP SynchroMax might be a good subsitute.
As far as the break in period goes, I believe that this only applies to those transmissions that are coated at HMS. For my tranny, which has the coating, Terry told me that after 300 miles of moderate city driving, to drain and fill. He says some of the coating will get in the oil, turning it a little grey, and it is to be drained.
He also made an interesting point. Whatever you use to break in a new transmission, use that same fluid for the life of the transmisssion. I'm not a metallurgy expert, but my layman's explanation is that the brass-alloy compounds used in the forks are porous. If you put x-fluid in, x-fluid will get in the pores and won't entirely leave the metal. The same is true of the aluminum case. I haven't welded on aluminum, but I understand that, for a few different reasons, you pre-heat the metal prior to welding. Aluminum is porous and pre-heating leaches out contaminents prior to welding.
If your tranny is not new, and you change fluids, you won't ever be able to get all the old fluid out of the metals. This would compromise a comparison of a different oils.
Black 1998.5
3L Oval Port
Full HMS Transmission
Lots of other stuff
Ressurected 06/14/06
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Hehehe that pump looks like the one I have, but mine wasn't called "lubrimatic" 
morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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Now why does this not suprise me? This logic is just amazing. It's okay to recommend a fluid change for newly coated parts because they will produce a particulate that actually colors the fluid gray? Because the coating is gray? Well that isn't exactly a break-in, but it isn't exactly "not a break-in" either now is it?
But I'm fine with that because I agree that I wouldn't want those particles floating in the fluid forever.
However. How is that ANY different then recommending that the there should be a fluid change after a new Torsen unit is put into an MTX75? Why is it all different when we talk about putting in a Torsen, which is coated black on all the metal parts to prevent corrosion (like rifle blueing) I might add, and having the metal parts inside it that experience metal to metal contact wear off the black coating and consequently darken the oil. With black particles I might add?
Maybe when I said that black oily film in that trans was caused by the break-in of the T2 diff it will be better understood through the comparison with those gray-coated transmissions.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by morbid:
Hehehe that pump looks like the one I have, but mine wasn't called "lubrimatic"
"No, no. That's not my bag, baby!"
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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At what intervals are you supposed to change the MTX fluid? I have 35K on the car now and I assume it is factory honey.
Alex
00 T-Red/Tan SVTC
#1964/2150
167 HP @6800
153 TQ @3000
Sold-
98 'Tour SE 24V 5-spd
149 HP @5900
148 LB FT @4300
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