Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Suspension Anyone try this camber/caster kit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPC-Ford-Contour-Cougar-Mystique-front-camber-kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33581QQitemZ8033553383QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Anyone have any experience with these ebay parts? I know you can get a kit through BAT, but this ones a little cheaper.. What do you guys think?

As far as I know, there is only one company that makes those for our cars, Specialty Products. According to the info posted with it, it is a Specialty Products part. Also, it looks just like the one I installed.

yes i use that camber kit. i actually paid a bit less too from the same seller.

-a

Ok, I have some dumb questions about these camber kits and the upgraded kits.
I have an 98 SE V6 MTX75 and I am thinking of putting GC Coilovers in and at the same time these BAT/SPE camber kit.
1)I hear about the camber plates "spinning". How serious is this? Is it a big problem?

2) I was hoping to get the GC Coilovers and the Camber kit installed while I am travelling at the end of the month. Can I put the upgraded plates from SVTForme in from the top or do I have pull the strut to do it?
It looks like they could be installed from the top after I have had the Coilovers and stock Camber plates installed. I am thinking of ordering upgraded plates and the time frame would not matter if I can do this.

3)Don't mean to steal this thread but what spring rate is recommended for the GC Coilovers for autocrossing? I have the Single adjustable Konis.
Thanks in advance for your patience with the dumb questions!

The upper plates serve no other purpose than to keep the strut in place at full droop.

Thanks for the feed back Auto X!
I have been autocrossing the Contour in G Stock here in Canda for the last 4 years and doing the winter autocross (same as summer autocross but on a gravel parking lot, I think you call it rally cross in the States) for the last 4 years too.
I was having some trouble with the transaxle and had have it pulled and fixed so, long story short, also put in a Quaife and a Spec aluminium flywheel!
Since I am now in Canadain DSP (flywheel) I am thinking of putting in the GC Coil overs and camber plates. I will autocross it this summer then most likely switch it back to winter autocross next winter. To make the car really working in low friction surfaces I should get the Koni's revalved but I am not sure I want to go to that expense.
In the end the Contour will be my winter car! I have dreams of an E36 M3 for a summer autocross car.

In the end I don't want to drop the car much, I just want to corner weight it and get some camber. I would like it to rotate a bit better. I have the single adjustable Koni and the 21 mm rear sway bar (rear bar legal in Canada in stock class). I ran 225-50-15 Kumho 710's last year and most likely will stick with them.

What setup are you running in Autocross? The regular springs that come with the GC's are 525 Fr 280 Rear. Why did you go the higher rate rear? Just curious!

Whoops, went to your page and I see your setup!
Another question, why did you go with the 16 inch wheels?

The 280lb rear springs are way too soft. You need a lot of rear roll stiffness in any fwd car, and most real racing setups are very nearly equal rates f/r. I assume Ground Control sells the soft rear springs to produce an understeering kit for liability reasons, but I don't really know. I have been doing a bit of messing around with rates, but I still don't know what's best.

If you want to run on rough surfaces, you might think about something a good bit softer, like 300/250 or 250/200. On rough pavement my car gets very loose because of the stiff springs. You'll have to run the car higher to keep it off the bumpstops with softer springs, though: I have around 1.25" of travel before a 1" bumpstop now.

I went with the 16" wheels because they were cheap, and so are 16" tires. I've thought about 15" for lower weight, but if I don't want the taller sidewalls or lower gearing. 17" would let me run a 225/45R17, which gives huge tire selection, but that's going to be several lbs heavier than my 16s. I'm running a 205/55 right now, despite the tall sidewall, to see how the gearing feels. If I like the taller gearing, and the 1/2" higher CG over stock size doesn't slow me down, I may go to a 17" if I can find some light, cheap wheels. One other advantage of 17" is that 7.5" wide wheels are common, while they're rare in 16". Mine are 7" wide, wich is great for the 205s I've been running, but 7.5 would be better, especially when I finally get some 225s.