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http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=wheels&Number=875255

First off, let me apologize for my attitude in that thread. I was a relative noob who had a lot to learn about how to discuss something online.

I've done a lot of research since then, and I've determined that we were both right. Basically, a lugcentric setup with no rings should work fine. The tapers do a good enough job of centering the wheels that carefuly mounting will result in a balanced setup. The friction between the hub face and wheel carries the load, as we all agreed in that thread.

BUT, rings do not only help make the mounting easier, they actually bear some force. I've seen a lot of pictures of fretting on rotor hats from play in the system - properly torqued ones, at that. You do end up asking the studs to take shear loads, which is a very bad thing.

Now, Miata guys will fight this all day. A Miata uses the same stud size and number as the Contour, weighs 1000lbs less, and is rwd with 50/50 weight distribution. The front wheels on a Contour have 1000lbs each on them, and do all the driving and essentially all of the braking. This means you have fully reversing forces in two dimensions on each stud, which is horrible for fatigue! The Miata has 500 lbs on each wheel, and the driven rears do very little braking. With 4 M12 studs, just like us.

Of course, you can get lucky. Things for mass consumption are overbuilt, and even racing without rings won't break anything. But I ran without and had stud breakage. Weargle had stud breakage, I believe without rings (Wes, details?). 4 small studs are not much for a fat car like this, so get good tight rings and give them every chance you can!


-Philip Maynard '95 Contour [71 STS | Track Whore] '97 Miata [71 ES | Boulevard Pimp] 2006 autocross results
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IMHO, I would rather have hubcentric rings to fill the gap as peace of mind. Spend ~$40 and get them. BFD.


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Hubcentric rings can usually be found for $15 or less.
I had two missing for a little while with no problems, but south georgia roads (even pushing the car where I can, which isn't a lot) doesn't put a lot of weird forces on the car. I agree, if the wheel is not made to fit the hub (st200s,roush wheels,focus svt,etc.) make sure you have hubcentric rings.


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contact your wheel manufacturer. I did, even though I bought them second-hand, and they sent them to me for free. (American Racing btw, and tirerack included them free with my new O.Z. Superleggeras)

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with my 18z i kept breaking studs like nobody's business. almost always in the rear though. anywho, fiiiinally figured out that hubcentric rings would solve the problem and it did. with my current 19" centerlines, they werent needed at all.


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Sometimes you can mess up a word so bad that spell check doens't know what the hell you're talking about.


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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Weargle had stud breakage, I believe without rings (Wes, details?).




I only had one stud break while autocrossing; the ATS Comp Lites don't allow rings due to the taper where the hub contacts the wheel. The other three studs broke when using the rings on the DD Enkei RS-5's. After I have adjusted the torque from 95 to 85 lb/ft, I have yet to experience another failure.

I've broken three rear studs and one front, which kind of doesn't help your case Phil. I also wish that the Miata weighed 2000 lbs; it's closer to 2450-2550 depending on trim level, fuel level and wheel options. Nationally competitive CSP cars get down to 2250ish. I also wish that there was a 50/50 front to rear weight distribution. When we cornerweighted my car, the cross weights at stock ride heights with driver were 49.8 and 50.2. The front to rear was something like 52/48. I'm of the opinion that the marketing guys didn't understand what 50/50 balance is from the engineers and it has stuck.

The Miata front studs are the same as both front and rear studs on the Contour, but the rears on the Miata have a beefier knurl section. It's hard to harness the 110 lb/ft of torque with anything else.

And I think that you're a bit off with the loads that the front sees. Sitting on the ground, sure each hub has the appropriate weight on it, but an ABS stop from 80 puts a whisper more weight on the fronts than what you indicated above.

I stand by my assertion that the hub centering rings bear zero load when the wheel is bolted to the hub. If it did, then there'd be slop in that the wheel would move relative to the hub, and this simply cannot happen using male tapered lugnuts in a correspondingly female tapered receiver (the wheel)


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Andy Hollis said his ES miata (1992 base model) was 2015 pounds in race trim and I am sure his in CSP trim was even lighter.

More engine weight with the 1.8L but removed softop, racing seats and I am sure he was under 2000 lbs in CSP trim.

the 52/48 F/R sounds about right from what I have heard.


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I will say right now, I have lugs that help center the wheels and I tighten them in the approved patterns. HOWEVER before I got my hubcentrics for my RS5's I managed to warp a rotor or two from the wheels not being centered!


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You can't warp rotors that way. It can't happen. You can tweak a hub, but there's no way to induce enough force at that thick inner portion to warp a rotor.


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I guess my rotors randomly warped themselves sitting in my garage.

I must have had those rotors turned for nothing then.


Alex '99 SVT Contour -=|WANTED: Vortech, working or not |=-
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