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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,570 |
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
I didnt reall dissconnect the tie rods and all that, just the calipers and rotors,
the only thing I disconnected was the end link 
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9,872
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OP
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Originally posted by Count Blah:
you should have stopped there and replaced the boot.
now that ball joint will wear prematurely.
well when it does my friends who were doing it with me will pay for it..it wont happend anytime soon though hopefully..
#0009
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 27
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 27 |
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
lol believe it or not, we did the passenger side, WITHOUT dropping subframe, and without cutting..just had to lift the axle and move as far as we can till the bolt with a nice hit from the bottom popped out..getting the new LCA in was cake..however getting the joint in the knuckle is where everything went wrong..it just was lining up and when it finally dude, the knuckle slipped and slit the rubber boot on the ball joint..this thing was brand new so this kinda sucked..it took a while whit A LOT of banging to get it in..is funny how swapping the LCA's was nothing and took like an hour but getting the joint in the knuckle just took forever..tommorow will be the driver side where we know we will have some cutting to do..
If you leave all the bolts out in the LCA to sub frame except the bolt that is right under the cv axle, it gives you just the right amount of movement to get the ball joint into place with out tearing up the new boot on the ball joint. I have done it this way and other ways. this is easist that i have found. I can put the passenger side back togather now in about 45 mins.
1999 Mustang GT
1998 SVT #3217 Of 6535 (Sold)
8/25/97 I will own another SVT
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,970
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,970 |
I just read through this thread for any new ideas for when I replace my LCA's this weekend (Thanks again Nima ) Though, I have a new Koni/H&R combo going in along with other misc. goodies.  I'm not looking forward to getting the damn knuckel on without ripping the ball joint boot. I ripped one side on my old ones when I did my 3L swap 
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone 
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Joined: May 2004
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Originally posted by TC'd Swazo:
I just read through this thread for any new ideas for when I replace my LCA's this weekend (Thanks again Nima )
Though, I have a new Koni/H&R combo going in along with other misc. goodies. I'm not looking forward to getting the damn knuckel on without ripping the ball joint boot. I ripped one side on my old ones when I did my 3L swap
yea you hafta be very very carefull..I just finished mine so we'll see tommorow how the car feels..
#0009
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Joined: Aug 2002
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Just an idea I'm going to try, but I think my spring compressors are compact enough to be able to install my strut/spring with them inplace, and then remove them after the ball joint is in the knuckel. A little extra space inbetween the knuckel and the ball joint could make all the difference in the world on NOT tearing them up 
2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9,872
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Originally posted by TC'd Swazo:
Just an idea I'm going to try, but I think my spring compressors are compact enough to be able to install my strut/spring with them inplace, and then remove them after the ball joint is in the knuckel. A little extra space inbetween the knuckel and the ball joint could make all the difference in the world on NOT tearing them up
GOOD IDEA..the force of the springs made it very hard to move the strut around..on the other side we used spring compressors and it was money 
#0009
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