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Don't know if you came across this write-up I did a while back. It goes over how to move the subframe out of the way, along with the rest of the job. 
Marty
98 SVT, Black, No. 786, May 7, 1997.
K&N, MSDS, Xcal2, Tint, Antennas, Big Gulp(R)-Sized Cupholder, Rear Dome Lt., Koni/Eibach, DMD, Pre-98 Sails, Brake Cooling Deflectors, Sidemarkers, Etc.
147K+ Miles
"Get the Door - It's GrooveNerd!"
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Originally posted by GrooveNerd:
Don't know if you came across this write-up I did a while back. It goes over how to move the subframe out of the way, along with the rest of the job.
Marty
That's a good write-up. I wish I had come across it before I installed my LCAs. I just went by what the manual said, to loosen all 4 mounts and then we lifted the engine/tranny out of the way with a jack, which gave just enough room to switch the driver's side LCA. The passenger side isn't nearly as difficult. Basically: passenger side, 1 - 1.5 hours, driver side, 3 - 4 hours, and that's if you know what you're doing. It took me a bit longer on both counts because there were a lot of other little issues that came up.
E0 Silver Frost CSVT #3095/6535
Alpine CDA-9851
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Took me only 1.5 hours to do my driver's side 4-bolt a couple of weeks ago.
Would have only taken 45 minutes, but the inboard CV joint popped apart so I had to pull the knuckle to pop the joint back together.
I both raised the engine (loosened forward mount only) AND dropped that side of the subframe a bit. Gave me enough room to get the bolts out.
Steering is a lot tighter now. The forward bushings were worn out on the old LCA.
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
lol sorry about these questions, how hard is it to raise the subframe to get easy access to the bolts? how would I raise the subframe too btw?
Originally posted by BrApple:
all you need to do is one, disconnect the steering, its one bolt inside the cabin, disconnect the roll restrictors, and with alot of PB Blaster work the 4 subframe bolts out and drop the subframe about 4 inches. should be able to do one side at a time, can use a 14 or 15 mm deep socket as an alignment tool. It is so much easier as you don't have to load up the control arm as you try to get is into the subframe and under the hub. Other wise you need to pull the strut and get the hub out of the way to make it easier.
my father and I have done the 4-bolt lower arms both ways, moving the engine or the subframe to get the bolts out, the subframe is the best way to go imho
please don't do what one person suggested and take one side of the subframe bolts out and pry on it, that is stupid 
take your time and you will be all set
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Originally posted by Yummy Mummy:
Originally posted by rkneeshaw3.0:
the sway bar endlink... I just hand-tightened that.
I hope you don't mean by bare hands. I hope you meant by feel. I think they are about 30 ft lbs. Not too much. I just snug the EL's down.
lol, i thought that would be obvious
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how did you guys get the ball join out of the knuckle? use a crow bar to pry it out? and also I think Bill sent me the wrong nuts for the bolts..they all are the same size nuts..this sucks! should i just re-use the old ones?
#0009
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Big pry bar and air chisel sometimes to split the joint. Usually a good push down will pop it out.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
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Originally posted by T-o double dizzo:
Big pry bar and air chisel sometimes to split the joint. Usually a good push down will pop it out.
I didnt reall dissconnect the tie rods and all that, just the calipers and rotors, I dont wanna take too much out..i should be fine with all that I hope..but those damm nuts, this is getting outa hand, Bill has messed up this order twice..
#0009
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lol believe it or not, we did the passenger side, WITHOUT dropping subframe, and without cutting..just had to lift the axle and move as far as we can till the bolt with a nice hit from the bottom popped out..getting the new LCA in was cake..however getting the joint in the knuckle is where everything went wrong..it just was lining up and when it finally dude, the knuckle slipped and slit the rubber boot on the ball joint..this thing was brand new so this kinda sucked..it took a while whit A LOT of banging to get it in..is funny how swapping the LCA's was nothing and took like an hour but getting the joint in the knuckle just took forever..tommorow will be the driver side where we know we will have some cutting to do..
#0009
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you should have stopped there and replaced the boot.
now that ball joint will wear prematurely.
NY State Trooper: So what makes your car so special to have SVT all over it?
Me: Er...It was made by Fords SPECIAL Vehicle Team?
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