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I'll putting in my new LCA's tommorow and was just wondering if anyone would suggest certain tips. I have new Ford bolts so I'll pretty much be cutting out the old ones and iirc these new ones will go in from the bottom, correct?? Also is there a way to keep ur alignment from getting wacked?? I know Brian (brapple) did it without messin his up..Also anyone know the torque specs for the nuts and anything else I'll be taking out? thanks
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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Two-bolt or four-bolt?
4 bolt pita one
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Search for my old threads. Basically, you take the nuts off, push the bolts up and out - cutting the heads off the ones that won't come out. It helps to undo your engine mounts and jack the engine/tranny up a bit for more room. Air tools help a lot!
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cool i just found it, i dont have air tools, its gonna be by hand and to cut the bolts using a dremel..
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Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
cool i just found it, i dont have air tools, its gonna be by hand and to cut the bolts using a dremel..
how are you goign to get the new bolts in correctly ....
all you need to do is one, disconnect the steering, its one bolt inside the cabin, disconnect the roll restrictors, and with alot of PB Blaster work the 4 subframe bolts out and drop the subframe about 4 inches. should be able to do one side at a time, can use a 14 or 15 mm deep socket as an alignment tool. It is so much easier as you don't have to load up the control arm as you try to get is into the subframe and under the hub. Other wise you need to pull the strut and get the hub out of the way to make it easier.
my father and I have done the 4-bolt lower arms both ways, moving the engine or the subframe to get the bolts out, the subframe is the best way to go imho
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I did mine without dropping the subframe, and only had to install two bolts from the bottom up (drivers-side, under the MTX). The bolts directly below the axles are pretty tight to get out, but if you loosen the nut at the top of the strut tower it will allow the strut tower assembly to be pushed around to get the axle out of the way enough to remove/replace the bolts below. If you're axles are old be careful not to tear the rubber boot when you're sliding the bolt in/out. If they're still origional LCAs, be patient. My bolts were in bad condition and did not come out easily. I had air tools and got the nuts off the bottom of the bolts ok, but especially the bolts below the axles were in really bad shape. I had to drill one of them out, the other took a BFH and lots of PB blaster and about 45 minutes of wackin. The bolt was in such a deteriorated condition it was all malformed, corroded, or something. The middle of the bolt was about half the thickness it origionally was. It seems my case was extreme though as I haven't heard of anyone else having so much trouble. My LCA's were also over 10 years old and had 158,000 miles on them 
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so you guys are saying that if I dont move my subframe then I have no chance of getting the bolts in and out? because this isnt somthing I wanna do to be honest..
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If you leave the subframe alone, you will have to cut two bolts off and put them in from the bottom. If you move the subframe you won't need to cut anything.
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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
If you leave the subframe alone, you will have to cut two bolts off and put them in from the bottom. If you move the subframe you won't need to cut anything.
fair enough then, I will cut..wish me luck and also are there any torque sepcs I should be aware of? thanks
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