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Hello,
I was just wondering what method you guys used to get the bolts that go through the center of the roll resistors off. I have spent all day but they are frozen. Been attacking with PB Blaster, breaker bars and a wrench with a brass mallot, oh and a few explitives, but can not manage to break these free. Is there some way that everyone else uses to get these off? Thank you.
- Chris
'99 Silver Frost SVT #2582:
- Fondmetal Wheels with Kuhmo Ecsta 235x45x17
- Ground Control Coilovers with Koni struts (on rear)
www.contiqueopedia.com <-- just beginning construction
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Air tools. If that's not an option, a very long bar is always the way to go. As long as you have a good 6-point socket, I'd not be afraid to put a lot of pressure on it.
If you're worried about breaking something, try heat: use a torch to get the center bolt hot - red hot if you can. The heat will burn out crud and the expansion will loosen things up. I imagine the rubber will burn and smoke, but it's junk anyway now.
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You didn't search!  That's OK, those things were a [censored]! The solution is at the end of that thread...
EDIT> I didn't have to heat it to be red-hot, just about 30-45 seconds per bolt and they came loose.
Last edited by Tisby; 04/10/06 12:50 AM.
2000 Mystique LS
Duratec 2.5L MTX
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I would try taking a little load off them too...like put a piece of wood under the oil pan and then barely just barely lift the engine with a jack...that will take some of the load off.
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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Did you take the brackets off or no?
E0 Silver Frost CSVT #3095/6535
Alpine CDA-9851
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righty tighty and lefty loosy 
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Auto-x fill/Tisby : yes, I did use air tools (impact gun). I will try taking a torch to them tomorrow to heat the bolt. Stilov: Yes, I had a jack and a block of wood under the transaxle. Rishodi: I have not gotten them off yet. Been at school all day, I have to wait till tomorrow. Mapoftazifosho: Oh yeah now ya tell me  thank you for your replies - Chris
'99 Silver Frost SVT #2582:
- Fondmetal Wheels with Kuhmo Ecsta 235x45x17
- Ground Control Coilovers with Koni struts (on rear)
www.contiqueopedia.com <-- just beginning construction
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Newbie at roll resistors  What's the difference between those and engine mounts, since the poly roll resistors stop wheel hop right? Do they bolt off and on without having to support the engine or take anything off? Sorry for hijacking thread 
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Originally posted by Berkel:
What's the difference between those and engine mounts, since the poly roll resistors stop wheel hop right?
These are engine mounts. They are mounts where the rubber has been removed and replaced with a hard poly filling. The specific mounts discussed here are the front and rear transmission mount for a MTX. These cost wwwaaayyy less, are stronger and do not wear out. The poly-filled roll resistors do stop wheel hop. However, brand new regular engine mounts will stop will hop, but they will eventually wear out. Also, the poly-filled ones increase NVH, but you become used to it very quickly.
Originally posted by Berkel:
Do they bolt off and on without having to support the engine or take anything off?
Yes, they do. There's only 3 bolts or nuts that need to be removed to swap each mount.
2000 Mystique LS
Duratec 2.5L MTX
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Some misinformation here: Originally posted by Tisby:
Originally posted by Berkel:
What's the difference between those and engine mounts, since the poly roll resistors stop wheel hop right?
These are engine mounts. They are mounts where the rubber has been removed and replaced with a hard poly filling. The specific mounts discussed here are the front and rear transmission mount for a MTX. These cost wwwaaayyy less, are stronger and do not wear out. The poly-filled roll resistors do stop wheel hop. However, brand new regular engine mounts will stop will hop, but they will eventually wear out. Also, the poly-filled ones increase NVH, but you become used to it very quickly.
No, they are roll resistors and do just that, they resist the motors want to "roll" from front to back in the engine bay durring acceleration, decelearion, and prety much any time you're driving(cause of wheelhop=misaligned drivetraine). Engine mounts are again, just that, themy mount the engine i nthe car(located on the left and right side of the engine).
Even brand new roll resisotrs WILL NOT stop wheelhop because of the slop that is built into them for noise comfort.
Originally posted by Tisby:
Originally posted by Berkel:
Do they bolt off and on without having to support the engine or take anything off?
Yes, they do. There's only 3 bolts or nuts that need to be removed to swap each mount.
Front: 2 nuts, 1 thru bolt (15mm all)
Rear: 3 bolts, 1 thru bolt (15mm all)
You do not have to support the engine, but make sure it's properly aligned and positioned before tightening the thru-bolts or the NVH will get out of hand(speaking form a LOT of experience). With the engine propperly located there is little to no vibration, ask 99contourdriver, as he has been in both my cars which were equiped with my mounts. I suspect misalignment is the issue with most people who have any problem with the resulting NVH from my mounts.
99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84
Totaled 02/12/06
99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88
Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06
Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle
90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
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