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Alright, I got acouple questions after spending a few hours reading/searching the forums.

I'll be swappming my 2.5 Duratech out of my 95 Contour SE.
And I'll be putting a 3.0 Duratech out of a '99 Tarus in it.

I've read a lot of posts of people running the 2.5 heads on the 3.0.
My 1st question is
1) Can I drop the whole 3.0L in and use the heads thats on it?

Also, I've read some posts about the transaxle/diff.

2) Can I use the 4speed automatic transmission thats in the Contour right now, will it bolt up to the 3.0L?

3)Also I've read about notching the block w/ pre '01 3.0 Duratechs, why is the block notched?

4) I've noticed that some people swap the heads so they do not have to reroute the fuel rail, ect this is not a problem for me. But I noticed that they're talking about some type of control module that you cant run w/ the 3.0L heads, is this true, and if so what module, and how do I go about disc onnecting it.

Basically I wanna do a full 3.0L 1999 Duratech swap.

What am I looking at getting into? And what are going to be some of the major problems am I going to encounter?

Also will the will the 3.0L bolt right up to the motor mounts?

Any information is helpful.
I've been working on vehicles as a mechanic for over 30years and I'm also known around the tri-county area where I'm from for building performance transmissions for over 35years.
When it comes to mechanics, I know what I'm getting into.
These questions are just prior to the swap, making sure everythings going to work, ect..

Thanks!

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No you need to run the 2.5 heads for the watter pump. On the Tauri they are on the front and on the 2.5 it is driven off the back of the cam.

The block is notched so that the snout of the starter will sit correctly.


The major thing about the pre 01 engines is that the block has an extra set of drianback holes. The heads don't. You can put drainback holes in tho by drilling in the side of the head. Oiling issues are pretty big on these engines. Depending on how crazy you want to get with this, you might want to take the crank out and have it pollished. Take advantage of the oil to cool the bottom end. Might also want to port out the pressure releif valve on the oil pump. The pump will deliver oil to the heads much faster than it can return it. After 20-30 seconds after startup, I have 80+ PSI of oil pressure. I've heard of 100+.


Most people will try an persuade you to do an 01+ swap. That way you have the 3l valves already in and you don't need to do as much work.

But if you want to do a hybrid (2.5 heads 3.0 block) there are many of us that will guide you.

BTW you will also need to probably use the 2.5 oil pan and drill another hole for the last bolt to line up. Dunno about an auto.....


Might also want to look into a Toesen/Quaife. (once again dunno if this applies to the CD4E).


Sounds like you should have no problem with this project.

It's a piece of cake.



Mike


The ONLY 96 (engine) 3L Build 'em fast. Spray 'em faster. ricehatersclub.com
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Mike

I would like to take the time to personally thank you for your reply.
To point it bluntly, from reading the forums I've noticed a lot of threads getting turned down and getting the good ole
"USE THE SEARCH BUTTON"
Which is why I clearly stated that I did search for countless hours, and found a good bit of information, but most of it was in threads that had like 10 differnt swaps going on, and the answers wheren't directed to one specific swap.

I come from acouple large forums, and I know how new users get turnt down by getting that phrase, and it somtimes puts a bad image in their head of the site and they usally don't come back. This site has a lot to offer tho, and I did search!

Anyways, thank you once again!
I'll be dropping the motor in the contour tomorrow, and begini pulling the motor in the tarus tomorrow evening.
I'm not to worried about the oil circulation issues as I'm not keeping this car for long, plan on selling it!
I got the car for free, spun bearings, and was missing two rod cabs. The crank was fine, so I was going to put the bearings in and order two rods and put the caps on, but I noticed the caps on the rods (Note - this is a ford remanufactured motor) where cut in werid angles that I've never seen before. And I couldn't find any cheap 2.5s around here. So I decided to do the 3.0 swap!

Also, if anyone needs any automatic transmission goods, for any vehicle, or any performance clutchs for standerds, let me know I'll cut you all low deals for the information on this website!
I'm also an Amsoil dealer so if you ever need any synthetics let me know!

-Jared
best way to contact
e-mail bowtie.pride@gmail.com
aim: h1gh oct4n3 108

Thanks again!!

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Jared .. i am with you brother ... i am a newbie here and i did kinda got the cold shoulder at first even though i did hours and hours and days of research, but many CEG'ers have assisted me or try to assist me .. i just wonna drop an 02+ taurus Duratech VIN"S" motor into my 1998.5 CSVT that has a spun bearing and a rod through the block .. i just wonna pull the old 2.5 out and unbolt my MTX tranny and do whatever i have to do to the 3.0 Taurus motor to get my MTX tranny on the 3.0 motor and drop it in and it be reliable, safe and Driveable... so mike if you know what i need to do or anyone can put into terms like you mike i'll be indebted to you .. and i'll pass the knowledge when i know it as good as you...... thanks again ....


SpdySVT


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I just fired up my 3.0 SCVT swap yesterday. I have been messing with it for months. I did the full 3.0 because I thought it would be easier. After doing all the fuel rail, wire splicing, EGR tube welding, etc, etc, etc, I would recommend going the hybrid route. Again, my personal hindsight says the head swapping would be easier than all the other crap I have gone through. I still have to weld up the throttle bracket (not required to do on a hybrid) before I can get it on the street. Hope this helps give you some direction, as everything on all these sites, it is just my humble opion. If you go the 3.0, I will gladly answer any questions for you I can. This site and the other FordContour.org one are full of good people and full of smart asses, you just have to put up with the pain to get the gain.

My swap wouldn't have happened without these guys.

Last edited by green1999csvt; 04/07/06 04:59 AM.

1999 Green Contour SVT 3.0 1999 Black Corvette 6 Speed (FOR SALE) 2000 GTP Pace Car 1993 Lumina Z-34 (SOLD!!!!) 2000 Blazer ZR/2 (FOR SALE) 1993 Eagle Talon (my baby) 1970 Camaro, since 1974 Yeah, I need more cars!
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this sounds stupid but the term full 3.0 and Hybrid 3.0 swap are used way too vaugely will someone please clarify the exact differences betwewn full 3.0 swap and Hybrid 3.0 swap .. i know the difference just from what i have read which is way too much so in one form..."this one" will someone who ever wiews this with experience in both types of swaps get back to me with the answer... thank you soooo much ...


SpdySVT


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Originally posted by Jared:
Mike

I would like to take the time to personally thank you for your reply.
To point it bluntly, from reading the forums I've noticed a lot of threads getting turned down and getting the good ole
"USE THE SEARCH BUTTON"
Which is why I clearly stated that I did search for countless hours, and found a good bit of information, but most of it was in threads that had like 10 differnt swaps going on, and the answers wheren't directed to one specific swap.






Jared

I know how ya feel man. I personally find it hard to search these forums. Might just be me dunno. One thing I forgot to mention is that if you have a non SVT you will need to tune the computer to interpret the extra air flow. The SVT maf is sufficent for the extra 30 cubes....

Can you get ahold of SPEC clutches?

Mike


The ONLY 96 (engine) 3L Build 'em fast. Spray 'em faster. ricehatersclub.com
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Originally posted by SpdySVT:
Jared .. i am with you brother ... i am a newbie here and i did kinda got the cold shoulder at first even though i did hours and hours and days of research, but many CEG'ers have assisted me or try to assist me .. i just wonna drop an 02+ taurus Duratech VIN"S" motor into my 1998.5 CSVT that has a spun bearing and a rod through the block .. i just wonna pull the old 2.5 out and unbolt my MTX tranny and do whatever i have to do to the 3.0 Taurus motor to get my MTX tranny on the 3.0 motor and drop it in and it be reliable, safe and Driveable... so mike if you know what i need to do or anyone can put into terms like you mike i'll be indebted to you .. and i'll pass the knowledge when i know it as good as you...... thanks again ....


SpdySVT






Well I Don't klnow much about the 01+ swap... But I'll tell you what I do know. Some people need to modify the fuel rail. You don't need to modify much (or maybe anything). IF you want to do a port match, pull off the front cover, take out the cams and go to town with a dremel or similar too. THen just blow out the excess...

Use the front cover that came off of your 2.5. The 3.0 and 2.5 are timed the same way the CKP sensor is just in a different location which is why there are 2 different notches on the exciter ring.

Then put everything back together using the SVT goodies. DeamonSVT has a ton of info on these motors on his site.

MIke


The ONLY 96 (engine) 3L Build 'em fast. Spray 'em faster. ricehatersclub.com
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Originally posted by giddyup306:
Originally posted by Jared:
Mike

I would like to take the time to personally thank you for your reply.
To point it bluntly, from reading the forums I've noticed a lot of threads getting turned down and getting the good ole
"USE THE SEARCH BUTTON"
Which is why I clearly stated that I did search for countless hours, and found a good bit of information, but most of it was in threads that had like 10 differnt swaps going on, and the answers wheren't directed to one specific swap.






Jared

I know how ya feel man. I personally find it hard to search these forums. Might just be me dunno. One thing I forgot to mention is that if you have a non SVT you will need to tune the computer to interpret the extra air flow. The SVT maf is sufficent for the extra 30 cubes....

Can you get ahold of SPEC clutches?

Mike




I don't think its an SVT, just says Contour SE.. w/ the 2.5 Duratech 24dohc.

Anyways, will the computer out of the tarus work? instead of getting stock one tweaked?

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Originally posted by Jared:
Originally posted by giddyup306:
Originally posted by Jared:
Mike

I would like to take the time to personally thank you for your reply.
To point it bluntly, from reading the forums I've noticed a lot of threads getting turned down and getting the good ole
"USE THE SEARCH BUTTON"
Which is why I clearly stated that I did search for countless hours, and found a good bit of information, but most of it was in threads that had like 10 differnt swaps going on, and the answers wheren't directed to one specific swap.






Jared

I know how ya feel man. I personally find it hard to search these forums. Might just be me dunno. One thing I forgot to mention is that if you have a non SVT you will need to tune the computer to interpret the extra air flow. The SVT maf is sufficent for the extra 30 cubes....

Can you get ahold of SPEC clutches?

Mike




I don't think its an SVT, just says Contour SE.. w/ the 2.5 Duratech 24dohc.

Anyways, will the computer out of the tarus work? instead of getting stock one tweaked?




I really don't know how to answer that. I dout it would work. The problem isn't the computer itself it's the MAF not correctly measuring the amount of air entering the engine.

Maybe someone else will chime in.


The ONLY 96 (engine) 3L Build 'em fast. Spray 'em faster. ricehatersclub.com
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