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Did my suspension and here is some general info:
2.5 '95 MTX
2nd set of GCs
Konis with perches removed
upgraded top hat bearings and washers

I just searched and found something about coilovers with tophats put a lot of direct force on the top cap.
Here is a archive post about it....

http://www.contour.org/archive/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB46&Number=563436&Forum=UBB46&Words=tower&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=563430&Search=true#Post563436


The problem is the metal plate with the rubber on the ring, under the hood, does not sit on the strut tower. The driver's side is like 1/4" up off the tower and the passenger side is 1/16" up off the tower. The plates seem to be hitting the first nut that holds the suspension together. Possibilities:

1. Worn cone shape hat allowing front suspension to go too far up into the tower? Replace cones?

2. Find a "shorter" first nut to allow metal plate to come down further?

3. Put an a$$ load of washers to fill the 1/4" and 1/16" gaps? (don't want to do this one)

SOOOOO, basically could my GC's from before bend the cone deeper - I need a pic of a stock cone hat and a measurement of how deep it is to compare to mine....

p.s. back in 2000 when i put my first set of GCs in on stock shocks, i use to jump railroad tracks and am wondering if that could have damaged those caps basically pushing/bending them up further than they should be?

I need suggestions or if this has happened to anyone please throw ideas in - JOE

Im sure you all can relate to what i mean but if you need a pic I can load some up later today.


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You're going ot hate me for saying this, but put your camber kit back in. It solved all my mount issues as it is all metal vs rubber. 2+ years on them no problem vs 1.5yrs max on the stock mounts.


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Hey Joe I don't have any front struts laying around sorry


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blu_fuz Offline OP
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Originally posted by timeless420:
You're going ot hate me for saying this, but put your camber kit back in. It solved all my mount issues as it is all metal vs rubber. 2+ years on them no problem vs 1.5yrs max on the stock mounts.





I never had the camber kit.....

Thanks anyway tony....

anyone else with suggestions? - JOE


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Mine became like that after a shop had my car for almost 3 months. I was afraid they dropped the car and it bent the strut towers. Or the strut mounts warped after being racked for so long.


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Joe, The stock plates are NOT supposed to touch the towers. This is normal.


2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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I just had the same problem over the weekend. Turned out that the nut that goes on top of the plate is taller than the nut that goes underneath the top plate. With the taller nut underneath the top plate, the top plate rests on the nut instead of seating down in the tower......swapped that around and problem solved


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blu_fuz Offline OP
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Joe, The stock plates are NOT supposed to touch the towers. This is normal.




huh? yes they are - they were touching before i put the new suspension in.....! come on stazi - p.s. knuckle works great, bearings are still good and have about 500 miles on them. thank you

About the nuts... I used the original nut to hold the suspension together and a new nut for the top plates under the hood.... soooo there really is no way that the way i have it now is wrong...

I need a picture of someones cone hat for the front suspension to compare to mine with the depth measurements or something.....


I also noticed that when the suspension was together b4 i put it in, the cone hat would sway like a bent rim when i spun it on the shock... the only logical thing is the cone hat is bent or the rubber is worn.

I wanted to see if anyone else had or has this problem and has found a way to fix it....


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same with mine to..mine dont touch..its been a year


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They are NOT supposed to touch. What people do not understand with our suspensions is that the strut rod at the top will move as you turn the steering wheel due to the inherent camber and caster - hence if you try to clamp it hard to the strut towers, you'll eventually fatigue the rod and break it.

Trust me I know what I'm tlaking about.

Joe - it helps to have someone who KNOWS how to install wheel bearings (me), install your bearings for you.

Last edited by Stazi; 04/04/06 02:30 PM.

2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi #1 for Bendix Brakes Kits! Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55 AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70 Gutted pre-cats $80/set A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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