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#1537419 03/29/06 10:54 PM
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100-140 for steeda. 130-170 for B&M (B&M usually includes a new knob, for the steeda its like 30 more i believe) all depends on where ya go and who has deals, if you can find it on ebay...etc.

The throws are about the same. So you can actualy base it on, if you want your new shifters height 1" below stock or 3" below stock. (1" steeda; 3" B&M)


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#1537420 03/29/06 11:24 PM
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what does n e one knwo about cosmo short shifters? there are 2 on ebay for the tour like 65 bucks.... n e thoughts..


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#1537421 03/29/06 11:35 PM
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by Tourige:
how is that possible? the Steeda moves the fulcrum point..




The fulcrum point is the ball. All shifters move at the fulcrum point.

Mark




Thanks thats what i said, you just didnt understand it

The steeda moves the fulcrum point up the shaft more, hence the shorter throws.


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Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


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#1537422 03/30/06 12:11 AM
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Originally posted by pimpdcontour:
what does n e one knwo about cosmo short shifters? there are 2 on ebay for the tour like 65 bucks.... n e thoughts..




...you get what you pay for.


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#1537423 03/30/06 12:35 AM
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The main difference between a cut stocker and the B&M is the overall feel of the shifter. The cut stock shifter still has that soft, spongy feel, where the B&M has very solid, firm shifts. Cutting the stock shifter is a waste of the 10 minutes it takes to do it IMO.


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#1537424 03/30/06 04:49 AM
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Originally posted by pimpdcontour:
what does n e one knwo about cosmo short shifters? there are 2 on ebay for the tour like 65 bucks.... n e thoughts..





the cosmo is not bad, I would weld the bottom ball joint on better though, it seems to be a pretty weak weld.


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#1537425 03/30/06 01:43 PM
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Originally posted by Moose:
Originally posted by pimpdcontour:
what does n e one knwo about cosmo short shifters? there are 2 on ebay for the tour like 65 bucks.... n e thoughts..





the cosmo is not bad, I would weld the bottom ball joint on better though, it seems to be a pretty weak weld.




Its probably the same B&M rip-off as the OBX shifter. You'd definately want to weld the lower linkage. I know first hand how bad it sucks to be stuck in traffic with a broken shifter.


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#1537426 03/30/06 01:49 PM
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I have taken pics of the stock shifter and the Steeda I bought prior to instaling. There is a noticable difference in the shaft length BELOW the pivit point (the ball). This is what creates the shorter throw. It's simple physics.

Now the B&M we all know is shorter then stock and the Steeda however the part that matters most when it comes to throw length is the shaft length below the ball and the B&M is the same as stock. So again it's rules of physics.

As far as the B&M, the more solid shifts (over the spongey stock shifts) may create the illusion of shorter/quicker shifts. All I know is I contemplated both and went WITH physics.

Now I got the Steeda w/ shift nob for $175 which is about the same as the B&M. It's your $.

Personally, as stated, I would get the Steeda and cut the length of the shaft for the overall best shifter.


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#1537427 03/30/06 02:40 PM
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teamSVTour, do you have any pics of the Steeda knob? I don't believe I've ever seen it. Bought mine without the knob obviously.

Mark


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#1537428 03/30/06 02:54 PM
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the one I got is just a plain nob. There is no "Steeda" engraving or anything. If you go to Steeda.com and click on "drivetrain" you can see the knobs. I got the polished.

The shifter is 149 w/out knob, 169 w/. The knob by itself is 25


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