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Was invited to a Dyno day yesterday at Extreme Motorsports http://www.extrememotorsports.com/ so I took both the SVT and the TTA to see how they would do. The SVT was Dynoed once before on a Mustang Dyno back in November '04.

Here was my plot from then...



Since then I have not done a thing performance wise not even a tune up. Now at 52K I'm sure I could use some new plugs and the Manacors I have to install wouldn't hurt either. My mods are the same and ~9K more miles on the car. Here is my new plot on a Dynojet Dyno



Pretty strange the numbers are almost identical...

Mustang:
171.6 hp @ ~6750 (rev limitted)
145.3 lb @ 5500

Dynojet:
171.1 hp @ ~6800 (rev limitted)
148.9 lb @ ~5500

Note the Air Fuel is a little rich...I suppose if I could lean it out some I'd gain a few more HP. Maybe new plugs will

Several guys there seemed to think the numbers were on the low side...like everyone says you can't compare Dyno to Dyno

And I had to Dyno the STOCK '89 TTA for a baseline before I have some fun with it. Now I do know it needs a few things but didn't have time to get them done before this since it was kind of a last minute thing. I need new valve springs and plug wires bad plus the innercooler desperately need a flushing out but since the pulls were real cheap...~$40-$50 per person for at least 3 pulls each w/AFR what the hey.

Here is the TTA plot...



Not too bad concidering...HP is a bit low but the torque is pretty good. The Air Fuel seems to be on the money. I need to post it on the turbo Buick/TA boards and see what the experts say there.



Scott 2000 Contour SVT #1464 Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb 1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car" #1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods 2002 F150 SuperCrew
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As everyone knows here in the CEG, I'm cetainly no expert when it comes to hi-po mods , but let me say something about your TTA. First thing, the boost, its only about 15 psi IIRC, so that needs to go up to between 18-20 psi. To go along with that, your going to need an AFPR to keep the fuel pressure around 45 at idle. Next is your chip, I'm sure theres someone in your neck of the woods or you can go online for that. I had this buy here in Michigan (Bob Baily) do my "dial-a-chip", giving me 5 setttings total, 3 for 93 octane and 2 for 100 racing fuel (unleaded). Next, clean out the intercooler like you said and get the oil bypass so no more oil goes down there. Moving on, lets get ride of that "straw" thats coming out of the turbo and go with an Terry Houston downpipe along with an ATR "pitbull" cat-back. You'll need to turn down the boost a little (assuming you've got the modified wastegate controller) I didn't address your fuel pump because IIRC the TTA already have the good ones, but maybe theres a better one now (its been about 7 years since I've had my 87' GN, so forgive if I'm not up to date on things) What do you think so far

Last edited by ( l l ); 03/28/06 12:38 AM.

"THEE" Roger R USMondeo@aol.com 2005 Crossfire Limited coupe' -FOR SALE @buyout price & I'll... -throw in my 93' Regal as winter car *Dragon Run 06'...Oct 12-15th* Puur-fection Auto Detailing Complete packages from $140.00
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If I were you'd I'd be happy your dyno's look good and are so consistent, unless I misread and you did a bunch of mods or something.
Good job though.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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This guy who used to work at our shop bought an 87' GN that had 52K on the clock, all original and pretty "ratty" under the hood, heres what he did to go 12.6 @106 mph for $1K in mods:

-cleaned out OE intercooler
-adjustable wastegate, set to 22 psi
-adjustable fuel pressure regulator
-"Muscle" fuel pump
-100 unleaded octane chip (locked up the converter too)
-"OE style 3" downpipe
-Dynamax cat-back
-new coil pack/plugs/wires
-160 stat
-recapped "cheater" slicks P255/60/15's

Now I will say this, my buddy did all the work himself as far as installing the parts, minus the cat-back, but he spent no more than $1K. He also installed some gauges too, still, not going over $1K! This car ran the 12.6 @106 mph w/ NO problems at all, including driveability and gas mileage. I had all of his mods, but my car had 120K and I upgraded the turbo (TE60), 42 lb lucus "red stripe" injectors, Eastern Perf front mount, TH downpipe, ATR "pitbul exhaust". My best time was 12.6 @109 w/1.90 60 ft time and mind you the turbo I was runnin' needed a 3000 stall and the motor, although had 120K on it, needed new valve springs as they're pretty much gone by 60K due to the heat from the engine and general wear and tear. My combo was good for high 11's/low 12's but I never quite got there as I sold it before I could reach that level Your car is quite rare as you know and BTW, does it have cloth seats Also, whats the gearing in that car, I forgot


"THEE" Roger R USMondeo@aol.com 2005 Crossfire Limited coupe' -FOR SALE @buyout price & I'll... -throw in my 93' Regal as winter car *Dragon Run 06'...Oct 12-15th* Puur-fection Auto Detailing Complete packages from $140.00
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Originally posted by ( l l ):
As everyone knows here in the CEG, I'm cetainly no expert when it comes to hi-po mods ,




roger.... it's time to let that go.


02 Mustang GT... Tuned by Nelsons. Low 12's, anyone? .....______ ___|______\_____ |/-\_________/-\_| .\_/...............\_/
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Hmmm...those dyno numbers are pretty strange. What were the weather conditions on both days? My car put down 170/153 with just an intake and exhaust with 93K on it. That was in 56 degree weather however. That dyno needs to have a sign on the front that says "The Heartbreaker".

The TA looks pretty cool. Only few mods and you've got yourself a real beast.


Justin 1999 Ford SVT Contour (T-Red) Cardomain site
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The TTA is stock with the exception of a 9" K&N conical filter to replace the factory air box. It made a noticable difference but made my boost go from the factory 16.5 psi to over 20 psi thus creating lots of knock (19-22 deg.). I had to install a adjustable wastegate acctuator to turn it back down, currently its ~16.5-17 psi. The car has 45K on it and the stock valve springs have been found to be pretty much crap from the start. They are supposed to be 90# but prove to be more like 70#. This appears to be evident in the plot as my HP falls off way short of the red line. It should be making max power at ~5500-5600 rpm but maxes out at ~3600-3800 rpm and just goes flat at that point. Also at least one of my plug wires was arcing when you put anything metal near it so I know they are shot (I have a new set of MSD wires to install now). But according to a bunch of the TTA guys the valve springs are a must...1 set of new 100# springs are on order.

As for mods to the TTA there are a few guys still around that have had them from the start and also had a few GN's in there mix as well.

John Pearcy http://www.johnsperformance.com/ and http://www.89tta.com/
Julio Don (aka Razzor) http://www.alkycontrol.com/
Dan McDonald (aka Grumpy)

These three guys are the experts on the TTA and GN/GNX's. I have spent many hours tlaking with them all about my car. They all will give you the same line "keep it simple, avoid the gimicks and the car will fly". The details have long been figured out for these cars so all you need to do is follow their list and you will be in the low 11's at ~124 mph.

By the way ATR is no longer in buisness.

Julio Don's 89 stock appearing TTA ran 10.550 at 132.22, 1.539 60ft 3850 race weight w/driver
Now his car has a few more mods but this is what he told me to do.

Scott,
Keep it simple...
These are must do items.
Engine & Drivetrain
1. Adj. Fuel pressure regulator..get the billet one from Johns.
2. RJC Power Plate
3. Injectors... MSD 50's
4. Chip.. Eric Marshall.. www.turbotweak.com
5. 160 thermostat
6. 100# valve springs
7. You will need a heavy duty WG actuator to go past 21 PSI.
8. 3"MAF pipe w/K&N 8" or 9"
9. Fuel pump.. walbro 340 or equivalnet and hot wire kit.
10. Shift kit. "The Real Art Carr" in California not Texas
11. Tranny cooler.. the bigger the better.
12. 3" Downpipe with cat delete/test pipe w/dump
13. Progressive alcohol injection
14. Good tires...drag radials

Stock MAF is ok
stock boost control is ok
No trans brake
Leave the stock turbo and converter on the car..until
its time to build the tranny..then do converter and
upgrade turbo to match.
Filter for drivers VC is good thing to do. Locate a VC
in the junkyard from a 3.0 FWD motor.. and some use
the identical covers that are on the TTA.. then put a
filter on the Pass side as well. If you want a
recovery for the PCV.. the AHW machine PCV deal is the
best.

Inside the car..
1. Scanmaster
2. boost guage Autometer 30/30 boost/vac.
3. If you like guages, get an electric fuel pressure guage from autometer.
4. One more item to note, audible knock detector from
Caspers electronics.. for when your eyes are not on the scanmaster.

The above with an engine in proper tune will make the
car fly. Get away from gadjets, big turbo's,
intercoolers, etc... until there is absolutely no
other way around it. The car will go 11.50 or quicker garunteed

HTH
Julio



I currently have a bunch of this stuff ready to go so maybe by the end of the Summer I'll get to dyno it again and see what it does then.

Scott



Scott 2000 Contour SVT #1464 Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb 1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car" #1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods 2002 F150 SuperCrew

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