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My starter. I'm proud to announce that the 96 3L is up and running. I started it up just to verify that it would run then shut it off after about ten seconds. Went to star it again and my starter is grinding. It sounds like the bendix is not strong enough to engage. FWIW I am running ~11.25:1 CR. I mix my own race fuel so the high compression is not a problem as far as fuel goes. My 00 CSVT has 92K on it and as far as I know the starter is original. My question is is this a coincidence or has anyone else had the same problem. If so is there a high torque starter available? Or possiblly the extra compression was just the last straw for the starter.

If there is a better high torque starter please give me a part number. Or if there is a rebuild kit I wouldn't mind rebuilding it with upgraded parts.

I tried a search but I had no luck.

Thanks


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You can take my post at 50%, because I don't know too much about the starters on these cars. But...It could be possible that the starter needs to be shimmed (if we have shimable starters) or...possibly a problem with the flywheel. Again, don't take my post at full weight.

(I'm basing this all on another platform car, don't know if it applies to the duratech or not)

And congrats on getting your 3L going!


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i had a simular problem...it took longer to start...with the hybrid that is..never ceased though


PLEASE HELP ME GET MY CAR TOGETHER! ITS IN DAYTON OHIO! I need the motor together and in the car so i can DRIVE it! Pleeeeeese! diamond pistons for 3.0/forsale #702 of 2150
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The stock starter is enough for the higher compression.
I've never heard of a starting issue from the starter on a high comp. motor.
Also, never heard of anyone needing to shim the starter. Did you grind enough away on the block skirt where the starter tip goes? If everything else including the fit of the starter is good, then I'd suspect a starter going bad. I dissassembled mine, cleaned up all the gears and relubed them with regular grease and was able to make it start like new. The grease gets old and gummed up long before the starter bendix, shaft, or planetary gears go bad. Also, it is an expensive starter so I'd look there first.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by posthuman63t:
You can take my post at 50%, because I don't know too much about the starters on these cars. But...It could be possible that the starter needs to be shimmed (if we have shimable starters) or...possibly a problem with the flywheel. Again, don't take my post at full weight.

(I'm basing this all on another platform car, don't know if it applies to the duratech or not)

And congrats on getting your 3L going!




Thanks for the reply guy. It does sound like you are on the right track. I kinna thought that for a while as well. I did have my flywheel turned but I think he only took .005" outta it. Then I got to thinking "why did it start the first time fine and now it just grinds"? I also crakned it 4-5 times with no ignition to verify that I had oil pressure. Not a single problem cranking it until I started it.


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Originally posted by warmonger:
The stock starter is enough for the higher compression.
I've never heard of a starting issue from the starter on a high comp. motor.
Also, never heard of anyone needing to shim the starter. Did you grind enough away on the block skirt where the starter tip goes? If everything else including the fit of the starter is good, then I'd suspect a starter going bad. I dissassembled mine, cleaned up all the gears and relubed them with regular grease and was able to make it start like new. The grease gets old and gummed up long before the starter bendix, shaft, or planetary gears go bad. Also, it is an expensive starter so I'd look there first.





Yes I took plenty off of the top of the block to allow for the starter. I almost think it'd be impossible not to because it has to sit flush on 2 pegs then the bolts go in. As far as shimming goes I've never heard of a Duratec needing it either. Don't even know if they make them... THe only thing that I know of that is known for needing shims is SBCs. I will disassemble it and lube it up with lubraplate on monday.

Thanks Tom.


Also congrats on makeing the 350hp mark. I'd almost turbo my 3L but even with 4#s and a 3 core intercooler cylinder pressure would be rediculous.


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Originally posted by svtProdigy:
i had a simular problem...it took longer to start...with the hybrid that is..never ceased though




See that's wierd. My car stared up in literally in only 1 second. Then again I might be to used to driving the 72 ltd with that dribble and drip injection crap.


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I'm in favor of taking it apart and seeing how the bendix is sliding on the shaft. It could just be binding on the old grease and not fully engaging and therefore missing the teeth.

Also, your car should be on stock injection system and that will help it start very "Normally". Sometimes when you start using chips or tunes it causes issues with starting quick until everything is dialed in.

Hurry up and fix your starter, I'm really really interested to see how that car of yours runs.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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I know this may seem blatantly obvious but how's your battery voltage.

My starter is very finicky with it. Behaves like it doesn't have enough ooumph to engage properly.

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Originally posted by warmonger:
I'm in favor of taking it apart and seeing how the bendix is sliding on the shaft. It could just be binding on the old grease and not fully engaging and therefore missing the teeth.

Also, your car should be on stock injection system and that will help it start very "Normally". Sometimes when you start using chips or tunes it causes issues with starting quick until everything is dialed in.

Hurry up and fix your starter, I'm really really interested to see how that car of yours runs.





I will take it apart and see what is going on.

No dynos untill summer guy though. Their is a place in Lincoln where I can get 3 pulls for 50 bux. I honstly think that with a different throttle body, exhaust, and proper tuneing, I can reach the 230 mark. The trick is in the tweak.


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