Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance MIL Eliminator Question

My 1996 SE has been setting MIL code P0432 (Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2) for awhile. I found information on the CEG on the MIL Eliminator and it sounds like a slick way to solve my MIL problem.

My question is this: If I install the MIL Eliminators, am I risking failing my next emissions test? I live in King County, WA. I suspect that the test isn't too tough to pass here but if there is a risk of failure I'd rather just fix the root cause now, unless the only way to do that is new cats (105K on the vehicle). My budget can't handle that.

If it matters, the car is not from CA.

Thanks.

How old is your O2 sensor? There is a good chance it simply needs to be replaced.

Welcome bhofman . First post in 3 years.

Anytime you put something which is not original spec., you run the risk of failing inspections. As you probably already know, the mileliminators are installed at the lower O2 sensors. You tape it up after that so that it is not noticeable. If they see it during the inspection, they will fail the vehicle. In addition, if they do a smog test and it fails, the vehicle fails too. If all they do is plug in the OBD II reader and see if there are any codes, then you are probably okay (once again, provided they do not notice the mileliminators). There are other reasons for the P0420 and P0430 codes but it is usually the pre-cats going bad (as your vehicle is more than 10 years and more than 100K miles). As suggested, you may want to try other suggestions first if you are not willing to change the pre-cats yet. The pre-cats will probably end up costing $1500 to $2000 to get them replaced at the dealer.

Read this TSB about the efficiency of the pre-cats.
http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/TSB0197HO2SServiceTips.htm

Edit. If you are thinking of changing O2 sensors, you change the upper ones first and see if that helps the situation.

Also read this thread.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1177534&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

Replacing the O2 sensors would be a waste of perfectly good money.

New federal standards for emissions testing has streamlined the procedure to simply testing the fuel cap and checking the OBD-II system with a scan-type tool for OBD-II based vehicles. States affected are in the process of changing to reflect this updated testing procedure. For example, in Missouri in the enhanced testing area, the only time time the vehicle sees a treadmill or sniffer is when it drives past or over them on the way to hooking up the scan tool computer connector.

I'd suggest the MIL eliminators as the odds of detection are probably NIL.

Steve

Thanks to all for the posts and information. The link to the thread from CEG on how the cats and sensors work was especially helpful.

I bought my car new, but the cats were replaced under warranty a few years ago. I can't recall if the O2 sensors were changed at the same time.

I just called my local dealer and they want $78 for one sensor. I never fail to be shocked at how much they charge for parts. The rep tried to make me feel better and make me feel like $78 is a bargain by saying he expected it to cost much more. Nice try.

Since my car isn't due for an emissions inspection for another 15 months, I'm going to go the MIL Eliminator route to solve my MIL problem.

Thanks for the help.

As you made the decision for mileliminators, this might help you if you haven't already found it.


www.mileliminators.com

My experience with the installation of Mileliminators

1) Drive up Rhino ramps ($40 at Advance).

2) Disconnect negative terminal battery.

3) Went under and unplugged connectors and then unscrewed both BOTTOM O2 sensors (22mm or 7/8 inch crescent wrench $7. You can buy a O2 sensor socket if you want, $12 at Advance).

4) In the comfort of kitchen table, splice (wire splice connectors $3) the mileliminators to the O2 sensor wires (clear and explicit instructions come with the mileliminators). Tape connection well with duct tape (water in connectors will give you P0136 or P0156 CEL codes).

5) Reinstall O2 sensors to vehicle.

6) Reconnect negative terminal battery

Took me about 1 hour 15 minutes. Vehicle might run rough for a day or so until PCM goes through the OBD II drive cycle again.

Thanks for the additional tips. I'm reasonably comfortable splicing wires, so the most difficult part will probably removing and reinstalling the sensors.

I don't have the ramps, so now is as good a time as any to invest in a pair.

im guessing you have plugged pre-cats, does the car run slow?