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Header FAQ
What headers are available for the Contour/Mystique?
There are 2 kinds of headers, both are equal length shorty headers and they are BOTH the same design. There is MSDS headers which can be found at msdsinc.com, they come uncoated or jet hot coated, you can also buy a MSDS y-pipe from them, along with MIL eliminators and an install package that contains all the necessary bolts and gaskets.
The other choice is Weapon R, recently they have been told to seize the production of their headers do to being a complete copy of the MSDS headers. Weapon R headers come only in Stainless steel, they also come with a Stainless Steel Y-pipe. Overall the Weapon R�s are cheaper than the MSDS if you can still find them, weapon R headers do not come with Mil�s or an install package. Also note that the Weapon R y-pipe uses 3-bolt flange, this requires the use of a flex pipe (to take the stress off the headers and manifold studs) along with the flex pipe you will need one of the following:
a) Buy a 3-bolt flange Hi-flow cat from Trubendz and bolt everything up
b) Buy a 3-bolt flange Test pipe from Trubendz and bolt that up
c) Modify your stock Main cat using a 3-bolt flange(this involves cutting off both stock flanges, cutting down the pipe on the main cat, and welding the stock 2-bolt flange, and the new 3-bolt flange on the main cat)
Where do I buy a new 3-bolt flange?
You can buy a new 3-bolt flange from Trubendz for 20 dollars, it is not on their product site but they can sell you them if you call or leave an e-mail.
Is a Flex pipe necessary?
Yes a Flex pipe is Necessary when doing headers, it takes stress off the manifolds and prevents you from snapping the manifold studs, something you really don�t want to do
Where do I buy a flex pipe?
Flex pipes can be bought from; Bill Jenkins, E-bay, and many exhaust shops.
Do I need MIL�s?
Yes you need MIL eliminators to simulate pre-cats for your O2 sensors, they can be made using a simple circuit, bought through Trubendz, or MSDS along with many other shops.
Can I use my stock Y-pipe with my MSDS or Weapon R headers?
Yes, you can use your stock Y-pipe with the headers, a good way of getting around the money problem is to buy MSDS headers, Optimize your stock Y-pipe and use everything else that is stock with the car.
there has been notices that some people are having troubles putting there stock y-pipe on the Weapon R headers, it seems to change for each person whether they will fit or not
If I Optimize my Y-pipe, why don�t I need a Flex pipe?
You wont need a flex pipe because the stock spring loaded flange setup works like a Flex pipe, hence you do not need a flex pipe.
How long will headers take me?
For your first time, anywhere from 8-17 hours, it took me 17 hours to do alone on jackstands, the process isn�t mechanically hard, its more or less mentally and physically hard. After you do them for the first time you will realize how easy they are, and could probably be done in 5 hours.
Do i need to get my headers Jethot Coated?
If you are buying MSDS headers it is recommended that you get them Jethot coated to avoid the stress that comes with the heat placed on the headers. Also it protects them against road salt/rain etc.
Do I need new Gaskets?
Lets break this down first, there are 3 types of gaskets, a 3-bolt flange gasket, a 2-bolt flange gasket, and a manifold gasket. You do not NEED a manifold gasket but if your doing the headers might as well throw on new gaskets while you are under there, it�s a safety thing.
If your using the stock Y-pipe or an Optimized Y-pipe you wont need any new 3 or 2 bolt flange gaskets. If you are using the Weapon R y-pipe however you will need 2 new 3-bolt flange gaskets
Both gaskets can be found at www.teamfordparts.com e-mail Bill Jenkins for Part numbers.
I've heard that the Weapon R/MSDS y-pipe doesn�t flow as well as an optimized Y-pipe
Any difference in flow between the 3 y-pipes is negligible, they all flow fine for there purpose, no sense in getting all hyped over nothing.
Do I need a main cat?
The car will be VERY raspy and probably drone more without a main cat.
How much louder will my car be with headers/y-pipe?
30-40% louder
What power gains will I notice from the headers?
You will notice MUCH more mid-low range torque and the car will probably pull more up top.
Dyno results very depending on other mods/car/year/ etc.
Part #s[
3-bolt exhaust gasket - F5RZ-5E241-C
Last edited by Pete 6.0; 04/18/06 02:23 AM.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find. 
much like your weiner.
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I really appreciate this faq but i wish it came before i started this commotion ( or i think i did because i got over 60 replies on my post)
thanks
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How many of these MIL's do I need? Here
CSVT
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just to clarify what is the difference between test pipe cat and high flow cat?
-a
koni kit - hpp rstb
camber/plates - cf (yikes!)
polyroll resistors - TCA's
WR headers/ypipe -TB hiflow cat
SFC's - XCal2
-dreaming of 3L-
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Originally posted by Bridge:
How many of these MIL's do I need?
Here
You need 2 MILs total. One for the front bottom O2 and one for the rear bottom O2.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
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Originally posted by 111R:
just to clarify what is the difference between test pipe cat and high flow cat?
-a
Test pipe is no cat, just a pipe in its place.
High flow is just that, a high flow cat.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
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Awesome post, this should hopefully cut down on these header threads now. Great Job!!!!
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After all the searching and reading I did, you write this now.   This is going to eliminate alot of the confusion. Nice job!
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Maybe someone could post the link For the MIL's Todras made. I searched for It a couple of days ago but came up empty! I think It was $2 MIL eliminators, but some of us would like to make our own.
I don't "mod" I just fix what breaks!
98 CSVT #2527 T-Red (Limping)
98 CSVT #2228 T-Red (Donor)
98 SE Sport ATX V6 (Running again)
If swimming is good for your figure, explain whales to me!
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Originally posted by Tourige:
Header FAQ
Where do I buy a new 3-bolt flange?
You can buy a new 3-bolt flange from Trubendz for 20 dollars, it is not on their product site but they can sell you them if you call or leave an e-mail.
www.exhaustdirect.com
email them at info@exhaustdirect.com
3-Bolt Flange $3.45
Originally posted by Tourige:
Header FAQ
Where do I buy a flex pipe?
Flex pipes can be bought from; Bill Jenkins, E-bay, and many exhaust shops.
www.exhaustdirect.com
email them at info@exhaustdirect.com
Flex Pipe $37.95
3L process done
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#0009
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This site seems to be the best deal??
98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998
WR Headers GMK CAI
Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods
L.E.D. tail lights in the works
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So just to recap a little...
If you were to buy WR headers w/y-pipe you would need what?
Parts
2 MIL eliminators
1 3 bolt Flex pipe (anyone know the Ford OEM part number?)
1 3 bolt flange (you still need the flange to to bolt the flex pipe up to the existing exhaust correct?)
1 union pipe fitting (for EGR tube modification)
Tools
misc. sockets (if you know which sizes please edit)
1 ratchet
misc. open end wrenches (if you know which ones, please edit)
Is that it? Or am I missing something?
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
1 3 bolt flange (you still need the flange to to bolt the flex pipe up to the existing exhaust correct?)
or you can just get a trubendz cat..one side is 3 bolt so that should hook up to the felx pip..the other side is 2 bolt so that hooks up to the exhaust..
#0009
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You only need the flange parts if your stock Y pipe with 2 bolt flanges all way around.
If your stock Y has a 3 bold flange at the exit side (ATX cars & later '99 & 2000 Contours/SVTs with MTX, then you just hook up the new headers & Y with MIL eliminators.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
misc. open end wrenches (if you know which ones, please edit)
Fugg regular open wrenches, get the flex head gear wrenches. You will be happy to no end if you do.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
You only need the flange parts if your stock Y pipe with 2 bolt flanges all way around.
If your stock Y has a 3 bold flange at the exit side (ATX cars & later '99 & 2000 Contours/SVTs with MTX, then you just hook up the new headers & Y with MIL eliminators.
correction, you only need the 3-bolt flange if your modifying the stock Maincat, not buying a new one.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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When you're buying flexpipe... if you want to do it right get the flexpipe with the braided inner and outer.. better for flow.
In the picture above you can see how the flex is ribbed on the inside.
Note that the braided inner and outer is a good deal more.
04 Subaru WRX "Eurosport bling bling fast and furious tokyo drift"
"They have diarrhea of the mouth, and constipation of thought"
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I think the braided inside and out in this pic was from ford since they were compareing the one off ebay to it.
98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998
WR Headers GMK CAI
Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods
L.E.D. tail lights in the works
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So from what I hear if you have a 98 and older you should just replace your cat with a high flow one that has the 2 bolt on one side and a 3 bolt on the other? Rather then go and buy a flange and a flex pipe?
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
So from what I hear if you have a 98 and older you should just replace your cat with a high flow one that has the 2 bolt on one side and a 3 bolt on the other? Rather then go and buy a flange and a flex pipe?
if you want, and its mid 99-98 cars that need them.
Like i said in the FAQ, you can do 3 things, modify the stock one, buy a hi-flow cat, or run a test pipe.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Apologies for my confusion....
I have a MSDS Y-pipe ready for installation, using the stock manifolds (for now). Since I'll be using the stock cat, where would a flex pipe go? I thought the MSDS flange was supposed to bolt right up to the cat, so I don't quite see how I can cram a flex pipe in there.......
Also, MSDS doesn't have the install kit listed anymore, unless I missed it.
EDIT: I think I'm an idiot. There's a flex pipe before the cat in the stock system, isn't there?
'98 Contour SVT - Please pardon our dust, under heavy construction.
'96 Escort LX - Pretender to the throne.
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Yes the flex pipe is before the main cat, but if you are only installing headers they should be a direct fit if they are the same flange, so therefore you dont have to install a flex pipe. The reason you have to install a flex pipe is because the WR y pipe does not come with one so you have to make up for that 8 inches lost.
I'm pretty sure of that, I am still yet to install mine, i have them sitting at home.
wish me luck though
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Originally posted by ContourSVT93:
Yes the flex pipe is before the main cat, but if you are only installing headers they should be a direct fit if they are the same flange, so therefore you dont have to install a flex pipe. The reason you have to install a flex pipe is because the WR y pipe does not come with one so you have to make up for that 8 inches lost.
correctomundo!
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Well, the MSDS doesn't have a flex pipe either, but I presume you mean that it has the correct flange for the stock flex, whereas the WR won't. Right? Man, we'd never have these issues if we all had bought Civics.... 
'98 Contour SVT - Please pardon our dust, under heavy construction.
'96 Escort LX - Pretender to the throne.
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MSDS uses the stock 2 bolt donut flange (if you have it). That provides the give needed. The 3 bolt doesnt have that, thats why it needs a flex pipe.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
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The flange that mounts up to the flex/cat? My MSDS has a three bolt, triangular jobby.
'98 Contour SVT - Please pardon our dust, under heavy construction.
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Originally posted by Matty K:
The flange that mounts up to the flex/cat? My MSDS has a three bolt, triangular jobby.
My guess is it's for a later year Contour or for a Cougar...
And I looked underneath my car since I forgot what I will be working with when it's install time... Hmmm... maybe I should snap a pic, but I changed my plans!
For one, my mufflers are rusted from the inside out and leaking, the muffler in the resonator spot may/may not be ok (has a few dents), and the flex pipes (yes, I mean PIPES) have some of the metal fabric jobby ripped up.
So since it has custom manifold pipes (set up for true duals) and the y-pipe is about where the main cat used to sit... I may just have all that 3" dealy taken off and do a true dual setup. 
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Well with the MSDS you could specifiy 2 or 3 bolt flange. If you got the 3 bolt, you have to get a flex pipe.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
Well with the MSDS you could specifiy 2 or 3 bolt flange. If you got the 3 bolt, you have to get a flex pipe.
WHY GOD, WHY?!
LOL, ok... Well, I know why, I bought it used off another member. I'll prolly just save the headache/heartache and just get one of the 3-bolt cats from Trubendz... we'll see. The weird thing is, it doesn't look short. Like, it looks like it would mount RIGHT where my stocker does, but I just checked, and the flange is wrong. Ye-argh.
'98 Contour SVT - Please pardon our dust, under heavy construction.
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This post has cleared up most of the confusion i had about parts needed for installing my weapon-r headers. So let me get this straight i will need the following parts for the install on my 2000 svt.
2 mil�s
1 flex pipe
1 test pipe from trubendz. Will the test pipe go where my CAT currently is?
1 3-bolt flange
What other odds and ends would you suggest?
Blk 2000 CSVT
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you need MIL's.... you also need the flex pipe. You dont need a new test pipe. What you can do is remove the 2 bolt flange on your existing cat and weld on the new 3 bolt so that will connect to the flex pipe and so on...
DO you have the WR headers, becasue I have everything needed and I am sellign them
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Originally posted by ContourSVT93:
you need MIL's.... you also need the flex pipe. You dont need a new test pipe. What you can do is remove the 2 bolt flange on your existing cat and weld on the new 3 bolt so that will connect to the flex pipe and so on...
DO you have the WR headers, becasue I have everything needed and I am sellign them
I know i said that modifying the stock main cat is a good idea, but im starting to have my doubts as its kinda a PITA and your probably better off buying a hi-flow cat or a test pipe from trubendz.
Just my .02
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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A PINA enough to shell out the money?
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I have the wr headers and y-pipe. I am going to pay the $165 dollars and get this from trubendz. This is what your talking about when you said get the high flow cat...right?
Blk 2000 CSVT
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I beleive so. It has the 2 bolt for your existing side and then the 3 bolt for your new y pipe. You have a flex pipe right?
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Originally posted by ContourSVT93:
A PINA enough to shell out the money?
granted you have someone who can weld for free and has access to a welder, it is cheaper, if your paying a shop to do it however, its probably cheaper and easier to just buy from trubendz.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Originally posted by NorthPole SVT:
I have the wr headers and y-pipe. I am going to pay the $165 dollars and get this from trubendz. This is what your talking about when you said get the high flow cat...right?
Thats the correct hi flow cat.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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That's the test pipe w/high flow cat that I got. The only issue I had with Trubendz, besides it took them forever to send it, was that they put an O2 bung on the test pipe. I told them TWICE that I did not need one but they put one in anyway.  Right now I have an oil drain plug in that hole.
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I don't think I have seen it covered in any of the threads that I have read but is any of the hardware used to secure the header to the head one time use only or can the hardware be reused?
I plan to check the studs/nuts out before taking it apart so that I have enough new parts on hand to replace as needed
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I reused the all the hardware.
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NorthPole SVT... I strongly suggest you look under your car to see if you have the two bolt or three bolt flange. If you have the 3 bolt, you won't need the adapter parts except the fitting for the EGR. You can run the stock cat and get MIL eliminators & live happily ever after.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by BrApple:
I don't think I have seen it covered in any of the threads that I have read but is any of the hardware used to secure the header to the head one time use only or can the hardware be reused?
I plan to check the studs/nuts out before taking it apart so that I have enough new parts on hand to replace as needed
You can reuse everything, i even reused the gaskets and i dont have any exhaust leaks. You can reuse the studs and nuts easily, but if your scared just buy new gaskets, its not a necessity tho.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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geez, had i known trubendz sold 3 bolt flanges i could have save myself $130! then again, its illegal in CA for a shop to tamper with a stock cat, at all......but i do know backyard welders..
Matt, i still have my stock 2 bolt flange cat if youre interested. all youll need then is the donut gaskets for your msds. do you have the msds Y pipe? or just going to optimize your stocker?
Originally posted by Tourgasm:
Sometimes you can mess up a word so bad that spell check doens't know what the hell you're talking about.
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Originally posted by BrApple:
I don't think I have seen it covered in any of the threads that I have read but is any of the hardware used to secure the header to the head one time use only or can the hardware be reused?
I plan to check the studs/nuts out before taking it apart so that I have enough new parts on hand to replace as needed
I bought new studs and nuts because I knew living in New England, the sand/salt from the winters had mine all corroded and having my car almost 10 years old and as a daily driver, it was the best thing to do just to be safe..now I have heard many didnt need it, but imo its not a bad investment to have 
#0009
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tour de force i checked i have the 3 bolt setup. So i need to get the flex pipe but i dont need the test pipe right? What is the EGR? thanks for the help
Blk 2000 CSVT
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Youll need the flex pipe. You wont need a test pipe unless your changing your cat.. if thats the pipe your talking about.
If your cat is 3 bolt the flex pipe and WR headers will bolt right to it....
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Originally posted by ContourSVT93:
Youll need the flex pipe. You wont need a test pipe unless your changing your cat.. if thats the pipe your talking about.
wrong, if you have a 3 bolt flange then you have a stock flex pipe, the headers and y pipe are a direct swap.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
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237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Originally posted by NorthPole SVT:
... What is the EGR? thanks for the help
He means the EGR tube (exhaust gas recirculation tube) which goes from the stock exhaust manifold (near the Bank 1 Upper O2 sensor) back to the EGR.
In this picture, it is on the right and it is covered by a "cloth" (?) heat shield.
Originally posted by chongo:
Did someone call me out.......LOL
here you go.
Autozone has a good schematic and they call it Orifice Tube Assemby in Fig. 1.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/ca/1e/0900823d801bca1e.jsp
Last edited by Tony2005; 05/26/06 02:27 AM.
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Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by ContourSVT93:
Youll need the flex pipe. You wont need a test pipe unless your changing your cat.. if thats the pipe your talking about.
wrong, if you have a 3 bolt flange then you have a stock flex pipe, the headers and y pipe are a direct swap.
OH i did not know that.. thanks for the info ...
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Originally posted by NorthPole SVT:
tour de force i checked i have the 3 bolt setup. So i need to get the flex pipe but i dont need the test pipe right? What is the EGR? thanks for the help
How's it feel to save lots of time & money. The headers will be a direct swap. No flex or other mods needed for the exhaust.
You will only need the fitting for the EGR pipe adaptation - cheap & kinda easy. Of course the MIL eliminators too, but you'll be up & running lots quicker & cheaper.
ENJOY! 
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Originally posted by NorthPole SVT:
tour de force i checked i have the 3 bolt setup. So i need to get the flex pipe but i dont need the test pipe right? What is the EGR? thanks for the help
How's it feel to save lots of time & money. The headers will be a direct swap. No flex or other mods needed for the exhaust.
You will only need the fitting for the EGR pipe adaptation - cheap & kinda easy. Of course the MIL eliminators too, but you'll be up & running lots quicker & cheaper.
ENJOY!
yep, 5/8" compression fitting will do the trick.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Ok I guess I understand the whole y-pipe flex pipe deal...
Since I have a early 98 I have the 2 bolt cat.
The W/R y-pipe is shorter then my factory y-pipe. So because of this if I just bought the Trubendz high flow cat testpipe w/3 bolt flange I would have roughly 8" of gap. So to properly correct this I need to get the flex pipe that everyone is talking about.
Is this correct?
Or could I just by the Trubendz cat and be done with it after I build the MIL's and use the 5/8" union fitting?
Or even better could I just buy a 3 bolt flange, weld it to my existing cat and call it good and just use the MIL's and 5/8" union fitting?
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Ok I guess I understand the whole y-pipe flex pipe deal...
Since I have a early 98 I have the 2 bolt cat.
The W/R y-pipe is shorter then my factory y-pipe. So because of this if I just bought the Trubendz high flow cat testpipe w/3 bolt flange I would have roughly 8" of gap. So to properly correct this I need to get the flex pipe that everyone is talking about.
Is this correct?
Or could I just by the Trubendz cat and be done with it after I build the MIL's and use the 5/8" union fitting?
Or even better could I just buy a 3 bolt flange, weld it to my existing cat and call it good and just use the MIL's and 5/8" union fitting?
Yes, you need a flex pipe.
Just stick with the hi-flow trubendz cat.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Originally posted by Tourige:
Yes, you need a flex pipe.
Well I'm not quite sure. What's the reason for needing a flex pipe. I just got back under my car to put my new clutch in and I placed the W/R y-pipe in there underneath my existing 2 bolt one and it matched up perfectly. I'm assuming if I buy the new Trubendz cat with the 3 bolt flange it should match up with my existing cat pipe, which would put it right at the W/R y-pipe flange.
So what am I missing here if I need that flex pipe? Will the Trubendz cat be shorter then my existing one? If thats the case wouldn't be easier and cheaper to just weld on a 3 bolt flange to my exisiting cat pipe?(my neighbor is a welder and has a nice setup, plus he owes me a favor.)
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Originally posted by Tourige:
Yes, you need a flex pipe.
Well I'm not quite sure. What's the reason for needing a flex pipe. I just got back under my car to put my new clutch in and I placed the W/R y-pipe in there underneath my existing 2 bolt one and it matched up perfectly. I'm assuming if I buy the new Trubendz cat with the 3 bolt flange it should match up with my existing cat pipe, which would put it right at the W/R y-pipe flange.
So what am I missing here if I need that flex pipe? Will the Trubendz cat be shorter then my existing one? If thats the case wouldn't be easier and cheaper to just weld on a 3 bolt flange to my exisiting cat pipe?(my neighbor is a welder and has a nice setup, plus he owes me a favor.)
Welding a flange right up to the stock cat. Is another solution.
People would rather do all the work themselves. Instead of leaving there exhasut loose. Then driving a leaking car up to the shop to get it welded.
I reject your reality and substitute my own.
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Originally posted by Tourige:
Yes, you need a flex pipe.
Well I'm not quite sure. What's the reason for needing a flex pipe. I just got back under my car to put my new clutch in and I placed the W/R y-pipe in there underneath my existing 2 bolt one and it matched up perfectly. I'm assuming if I buy the new Trubendz cat with the 3 bolt flange it should match up with my existing cat pipe, which would put it right at the W/R y-pipe flange.
So what am I missing here if I need that flex pipe? Will the Trubendz cat be shorter then my existing one? If thats the case wouldn't be easier and cheaper to just weld on a 3 bolt flange to my exisiting cat pipe?(my neighbor is a welder and has a nice setup, plus he owes me a favor.)
the 2 bolt y-pipe allows the engine to move and have it not pull on the exhaust and crack it if it was a solid connection. The 3-bolt cat makes a solid connection so the exhaust needs a way to flex, the "flex" pipe allows the engine to move and not the exhaust like the 2-bolt setup does
so if you have a car with a 2-bolt cat and you want to run the WR y-pipe you need to change your cat to a 3-bolt one and add a flex pipe to make it all work.
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
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Originally posted by BrApple:
WR y-pipe you need to change your cat to a 3-bolt one and add a flex pipe to make it all work.
So does the trubendz cat allow for the install of the flex-pipe. I guess the real question is, is it shorter then the current 2 bolt cat I have now, so I will have space for a flex pipe to fit in?
Also are there documented cases of peoples ehxaust cracking because of using a three bolt without a flex pipe?
Also I wonder if someone were to use a donut between the two 3 bolt flanges if it would limit the stress on the exhaust. I suppose one would have to use a dremel to allow proper sitting of the donut, but it could be done.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Originally posted by BrApple:
WR y-pipe you need to change your cat to a 3-bolt one and add a flex pipe to make it all work.
So does the trubendz cat allow for the install of the flex-pipe. I guess the real question is, is it shorter then the current 2 bolt cat I have now, so I will have space for a flex pipe to fit in?
Also are there documented cases of peoples ehxaust cracking because of using a three bolt without a flex pipe?
Also I wonder if someone were to use a donut between the two 3 bolt flanges if it would limit the stress on the exhaust. I suppose one would have to use a dremel to allow proper sitting of the donut, but it could be done.
i don't knwo but I would think if you ordered the 3 bolt cat that it would be the correct size to bolt into the stock exhaust, and that would include the flex pipe
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Originally posted by BrApple:
WR y-pipe you need to change your cat to a 3-bolt one and add a flex pipe to make it all work.
So does the trubendz cat allow for the install of the flex-pipe. I guess the real question is, is it shorter then the current 2 bolt cat I have now, so I will have space for a flex pipe to fit in?
Also are there documented cases of peoples ehxaust cracking because of using a three bolt without a flex pipe?
Also I wonder if someone were to use a donut between the two 3 bolt flanges if it would limit the stress on the exhaust. I suppose one would have to use a dremel to allow proper sitting of the donut, but it could be done.
Yes, the Trubendz cats are the right length for use with the Flex pipe.
Just FYI if you want to use your stock cat your going to have to cut down some of the pipe to make sure it fits, its all about measurments.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Also are there documented cases of peoples ehxaust cracking because of using a three bolt without a flex pipe?
I don't know, but if you go that route, perhaps you can start the damage database.
Long moment arm rigidly pivoting on studs screwed into aluminum. Hmmm....
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
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Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Long moment arm rigidly pivoting on studs screwed into aluminum. Hmmm....
Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Also I wonder if someone were to use a donut between the two 3 bolt flanges if it would limit the stress on the exhaust. I suppose one would have to use a dremel to allow proper sitting of the donut, but it could be done.
Hmmm....
If done properly to mimic the existing setup of the two bolt flange you wouldn't have that problem. Just my .02
Anyhow it sounds like the best way to go about doing it is to shell out the $165 for the Trubendz cat , and the additional $48.95 for the flex pipe. all plus shipping of course.
Looks like I'll just bolt the headers up to the existing SVT y-pipe and save up for the extra components.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Long moment arm rigidly pivoting on studs screwed into aluminum. Hmmm....
Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Also I wonder if someone were to use a donut between the two 3 bolt flanges if it would limit the stress on the exhaust. I suppose one would have to use a dremel to allow proper sitting of the donut, but it could be done.
Hmmm....
If done properly to mimic the existing setup of the two bolt flange you wouldn't have that problem. Just my .02
Anyhow it sounds like the best way to go about doing it is to shell out the $165 for the Trubendz cat , and the additional $48.95 for the flex pipe. all plus shipping of course.
Looks like I'll just bolt the headers up to the existing SVT y-pipe and save up for the extra components.
just a warning, some people have had problems with teh fitment of the stock Y-pipe with the Weapon R headers.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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you can make your cat work with some modification.
Here is a pic of how mine turned out.
i am at work i will get the pics up tonight
took some work but better then the $165 for a high flow
Last edited by BlackE1; 05/30/06 11:32 AM.
98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998
WR Headers GMK CAI
Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods
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Got my headers in and I still got the CEL (even with the MILs)
Should I pull the code first then check the wiring? What code will I get if the MILs aren't working right? What code for a dead O2 sensor?
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Originally posted by Bridge:
Got my headers in and I still got the CEL (even with the MILs)
Should I pull the code first then check the wiring? What code will I get if the MILs aren't working right? What code for a dead O2 sensor?
itll be a lower bank 02 Sensor fault
Check to make sure you reattached the multiplugs for the upstream 02 sensors, i know i almost fogot to do that when i did my headers
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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"Should I pull the code first then check the wiring?" Yes. "What code will I get if the MILs aren't working right? What code for a dead O2 sensor?" Originally posted by Tony2005:
As you made the decision for mileliminators, this might help you if you haven't already found it.
www.mileliminators.com
My experience with the installation of Mileliminators
1) Drive up Rhino ramps ($40 at Advance).
2) Disconnect negative terminal battery.
3) Went under and unplugged connectors and then unscrewed both BOTTOM O2 sensors (22mm or 7/8 inch crescent wrench $7. You can buy a O2 sensor socket if you want, $12 at Advance).
4) In the comfort of kitchen table, splice (wire splice connectors $3) the mileliminators to the O2 sensor wires (clear and explicit instructions come with the mileliminators). Tape connection well with duct tape (water in connectors will give you P0136 or P0156 CEL codes).
5) Reinstall O2 sensors to vehicle.
6) Reconnect negative terminal battery
Took me about 1 hour 15 minutes. Vehicle might run rough for a day or so until PCM goes through the OBD II drive cycle again.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by BlackE1:
you can make your cat work with some modification.
Here is a pic of how mine turned out.
i am at work i will get the pics up tonight
took some work but better then the $165 for a high flow
98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998
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My first experience with MILs, I installed them incorrectly - swapped the black & gray wires. Double check your install vs the instructions.
Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by BlackE1:
Originally posted by BlackE1:
you can make your cat work with some modification.
Here is a pic of how mine turned out.
i am at work i will get the pics up tonight
took some work but better then the $165 for a high flow
Looks good, prettu much the same as mine, but my pipe isnt bent, its just straight out the cat.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Well I bought a code reader and the codes are from the upper O2's
P1035 - Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit fault - Bank No. 1.
P1131 - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
Mils were taken apart and done correctly for sure!
HELP!!
EDIT: I found one problem! The shop did not plug the rear bank O2 back into the harness!! Should I simply clear the codes or reset the PCM?
Last edited by Bridge; 06/16/06 04:56 PM.
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Originally posted by Bridge:
Well I bought a code reader and the codes are from the upper O2's
P1035 - Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit fault - Bank No. 1.
P1131 - Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
Mils were taken apart and done correctly for sure!
HELP!!
mils go on the cat monitoring sensor, the down stream sensor, not the O2 sensors
you need a new O2 sensor
and fyi you need working cat monitoring sensors also since the mil eliminators just block the computer from setting the two pre-cat codes P0420 and P0430
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
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No the Mils were installed on the lowers as per my post above
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Originally posted by Bridge:
No the Mils were installed on the lowers as per my post above
I got it now
but you still need a new O2 sensor
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Originally posted by BrApple:
Originally posted by Bridge:
No the Mils were installed on the lowers as per my post above
I got it now
but you still need a new O2 sensor
Even after this?
Originally posted by Bridge:
EDIT: I found one problem! The shop did not plug the rear bank O2 back into the harness!! Should I simply clear the codes or reset the PCM?
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I would say theres not need for a new one now that the problem was fix by pluging in the o2 sensor.
98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998
WR Headers GMK CAI
Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods
L.E.D. tail lights in the works
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Originally posted by Bridge:
Originally posted by BrApple:
Originally posted by Bridge:
No the Mils were installed on the lowers as per my post above
I got it now
but you still need a new O2 sensor
Even after this?
Originally posted by Bridge:
EDIT: I found one problem! The shop did not plug the rear bank O2 back into the harness!! Should I simply clear the codes or reset the PCM?
ah you edited the post after I read it, if the harness was unplugged, plug it in and clear the codes and you should be all set
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
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Yeah sorry about the late edit
Thanks guys
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Beating a dead horse:
To be totally, 1000% clear: I'm doing full headers. It's a MSDS set, with a two bolt flange. My car also has a two bolt flange. So, I should be good to go, right? The nature of the two-bolt flange allows give, so there's no worry about cracking or need for a flex?
Also, does anyone have a pic of headers installed, looking down from the top of the engine? I just want to see how visible they are.
'98 Contour SVT - Please pardon our dust, under heavy construction.
'96 Escort LX - Pretender to the throne.
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Originally posted by Matty K:
Beating a dead horse:
To be totally, 1000% clear: I'm doing full headers. It's a MSDS set, with a two bolt flange. My car also has a two bolt flange. So, I should be good to go, right? The nature of the two-bolt flange allows give, so there's no worry about cracking or need for a flex?
Also, does anyone have a pic of headers installed, looking down from the top of the engine? I just want to see how visible they are.
Correct.
The headers are barley visible.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Originally posted by Matty K:
Beating a dead horse:
To be totally, 1000% clear: I'm doing full headers. It's a MSDS set, with a two bolt flange. My car also has a two bolt flange. So, I should be good to go, right? The nature of the two-bolt flange allows give, so there's no worry about cracking or need for a flex?
Also, does anyone have a pic of headers installed, looking down from the top of the engine? I just want to see how visible they are.
you will need a new gasket for the y-pipe to cat flange otherwise two bolt y-pipe to 2 bolt cat is good to go
you can't see the front header unless you are looking for it ...
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
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Originally posted by BrApple:
Originally posted by Matty K:
Beating a dead horse:
To be totally, 1000% clear: I'm doing full headers. It's a MSDS set, with a two bolt flange. My car also has a two bolt flange. So, I should be good to go, right? The nature of the two-bolt flange allows give, so there's no worry about cracking or need for a flex?
Also, does anyone have a pic of headers installed, looking down from the top of the engine? I just want to see how visible they are.
you will need a new gasket for the y-pipe to cat flange otherwise two bolt y-pipe to 2 bolt cat is good to go
you can't see the front header unless you are looking for it ...
What?
When i did my headers there wasent a gasket bewteen the cat and the Y-pipe. IIRC the Donut flange acts as a gaskets, much in the way the y-pipe connects to the manifolds.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Originally posted by Tourige:
Originally posted by BrApple:
Originally posted by Matty K:
Beating a dead horse:
To be totally, 1000% clear: I'm doing full headers. It's a MSDS set, with a two bolt flange. My car also has a two bolt flange. So, I should be good to go, right? The nature of the two-bolt flange allows give, so there's no worry about cracking or need for a flex?
Also, does anyone have a pic of headers installed, looking down from the top of the engine? I just want to see how visible they are.
you will need a new gasket for the y-pipe to cat flange otherwise two bolt y-pipe to 2 bolt cat is good to go
you can't see the front header unless you are looking for it ...
What?
When i did my headers there wasent a gasket bewteen the cat and the Y-pipe. IIRC the Donut flange acts as a gaskets, much in the way the y-pipe connects to the manifolds.
there is on the stock 2-bolt y-pipe, maybe the headers don't have one but that doesn't make much sense to me ... 
- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd
- 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd
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Mine did not have a gasket on it..
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Originally posted by Tourige:
Mine did not have a gasket on it..
Another vote for the donut. I put the MSDS Y on my car and required exactly 0 gaskets.
However, the Y to Cat connection with the donut has some special bolts/pins--crazy expensive and I couldn't get the pins out, and I ended up breaking one of the bolts because I didn't know what I was doing. I still need to go back under there one of these days and fix the redneck engineering I did to get it all running.
Function before fashion.
'96 Contour SE
"Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Originally posted by RogerB:
Originally posted by Tourige:
Mine did not have a gasket on it..
Another vote for the donut. I put the MSDS Y on my car and required exactly 0 gaskets.
However, the Y to Cat connection with the donut has some special bolts/pins--crazy expensive and I couldn't get the pins out, and I ended up breaking one of the bolts because I didn't know what I was doing. I still need to go back under there one of these days and fix the redneck engineering I did to get it all running.
yea, mine came out easy enough, they just needed some tugging, Definatly a weird setup.
I hate the person who designed our cars.
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Yeah, I broke one of those bolts too. I just went to the local hardware store and bought some 2 1/2 inch bolts, nuts, and washers. Put a washer on the bolt, put it on, put on the spring, another washer, then the nut, and good as new! I works just like the stock set up, and cost all of $2.00. I bought 7/16 bolts, so they are nice and thick to deal with the stress put on them by the flexing exhaust.
1999 Mercury Cougar V6 MTX
Injen SRI with GMK CAI Extension
MSDS Y-Pipe
Trubendz Dual-Outlet Borla
B&M Shifter
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