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#1527505 05/28/06 05:56 AM
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Originally posted by BrApple:
WR y-pipe you need to change your cat to a 3-bolt one and add a flex pipe to make it all work.




So does the trubendz cat allow for the install of the flex-pipe. I guess the real question is, is it shorter then the current 2 bolt cat I have now, so I will have space for a flex pipe to fit in?

Also are there documented cases of peoples ehxaust cracking because of using a three bolt without a flex pipe?

Also I wonder if someone were to use a donut between the two 3 bolt flanges if it would limit the stress on the exhaust. I suppose one would have to use a dremel to allow proper sitting of the donut, but it could be done.




Yes, the Trubendz cats are the right length for use with the Flex pipe.

Just FYI if you want to use your stock cat your going to have to cut down some of the pipe to make sure it fits, its all about measurments.


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


#1527506 05/28/06 12:20 PM
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Also are there documented cases of peoples ehxaust cracking because of using a three bolt without a flex pipe?



I don't know, but if you go that route, perhaps you can start the damage database.

Long moment arm rigidly pivoting on studs screwed into aluminum. Hmmm....


99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock). 99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress) 96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
#1527507 05/29/06 05:17 PM
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Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Long moment arm rigidly pivoting on studs screwed into aluminum. Hmmm....




Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Also I wonder if someone were to use a donut between the two 3 bolt flanges if it would limit the stress on the exhaust. I suppose one would have to use a dremel to allow proper sitting of the donut, but it could be done.



Hmmm....
If done properly to mimic the existing setup of the two bolt flange you wouldn't have that problem. Just my .02


Anyhow it sounds like the best way to go about doing it is to shell out the $165 for the Trubendz cat , and the additional $48.95 for the flex pipe. all plus shipping of course.

Looks like I'll just bolt the headers up to the existing SVT y-pipe and save up for the extra components.


-Mike 98 Contour SVT Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97 WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower 85 Camaro 1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
#1527508 05/29/06 05:44 PM
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Long moment arm rigidly pivoting on studs screwed into aluminum. Hmmm....




Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Also I wonder if someone were to use a donut between the two 3 bolt flanges if it would limit the stress on the exhaust. I suppose one would have to use a dremel to allow proper sitting of the donut, but it could be done.



Hmmm....
If done properly to mimic the existing setup of the two bolt flange you wouldn't have that problem. Just my .02


Anyhow it sounds like the best way to go about doing it is to shell out the $165 for the Trubendz cat , and the additional $48.95 for the flex pipe. all plus shipping of course.

Looks like I'll just bolt the headers up to the existing SVT y-pipe and save up for the extra components.





just a warning, some people have had problems with teh fitment of the stock Y-pipe with the Weapon R headers.


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


#1527509 05/30/06 11:31 AM
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you can make your cat work with some modification.
Here is a pic of how mine turned out.
i am at work i will get the pics up tonight
took some work but better then the $165 for a high flow

Last edited by BlackE1; 05/30/06 11:32 AM.

98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998 WR Headers GMK CAI Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods L.E.D. tail lights in the works
#1527510 05/30/06 04:39 PM
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Got my headers in and I still got the CEL (even with the MILs)

Should I pull the code first then check the wiring? What code will I get if the MILs aren't working right? What code for a dead O2 sensor?


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#1527511 05/30/06 05:17 PM
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Originally posted by Bridge:
Got my headers in and I still got the CEL (even with the MILs)

Should I pull the code first then check the wiring? What code will I get if the MILs aren't working right? What code for a dead O2 sensor?




itll be a lower bank 02 Sensor fault

Check to make sure you reattached the multiplugs for the upstream 02 sensors, i know i almost fogot to do that when i did my headers


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


#1527512 05/30/06 05:28 PM
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"Should I pull the code first then check the wiring?"
Yes.

"What code will I get if the MILs aren't working right? What code for a dead O2 sensor?"

Originally posted by Tony2005:
As you made the decision for mileliminators, this might help you if you haven't already found it.


www.mileliminators.com

My experience with the installation of Mileliminators

1) Drive up Rhino ramps ($40 at Advance).

2) Disconnect negative terminal battery.

3) Went under and unplugged connectors and then unscrewed both BOTTOM O2 sensors (22mm or 7/8 inch crescent wrench $7. You can buy a O2 sensor socket if you want, $12 at Advance).

4) In the comfort of kitchen table, splice (wire splice connectors $3) the mileliminators to the O2 sensor wires (clear and explicit instructions come with the mileliminators). Tape connection well with duct tape (water in connectors will give you P0136 or P0156 CEL codes).

5) Reinstall O2 sensors to vehicle.

6) Reconnect negative terminal battery

Took me about 1 hour 15 minutes. Vehicle might run rough for a day or so until PCM goes through the OBD II drive cycle again.





"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1527513 06/01/06 12:33 PM
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Originally posted by BlackE1:
you can make your cat work with some modification.
Here is a pic of how mine turned out.
i am at work i will get the pics up tonight
took some work but better then the $165 for a high flow






98.5 Black SVT with 34k miles Build #5683 Born on 4\15\1998 WR Headers GMK CAI Blaupunkt system fiberglass tweeter pods L.E.D. tail lights in the works
#1527514 06/01/06 12:42 PM
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My first experience with MILs, I installed them incorrectly - swapped the black & gray wires. Double check your install vs the instructions.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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