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#1525189 03/13/06 03:30 AM
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Need some feedback, whats the best clutch for the csvt? thanks.


Black '00 CSVT #4 of 2150 K&N ru-3530, BAT MTF, Magnaflow exhaust, MSDS headers, and optimized y-pipe.
#1525190 03/13/06 04:10 AM
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The stock SVT clutch is an excellent clutch. You really don't need to look further even for the added power of all but the most radical 3 liter conversion.

As you move into the racing clutch realm, the more hard core of a racing clutch it is, the harder it is to live with it on the street.

Generally the most recommended clutch that is stronger than the SVT clutch is Spec. Spec 1 is generally considered very livable for street use. Spec 2 is harder to live with due to the Kevlar disc that also tends to wear faster. Spec 3 is easier to live sith than the Spec 2 as it doesn't have a Kevlar disc, but it has harder to live with than a Spec 1. Don't even think about a Spec 4 for street use.

Other comments are welcome.


Jim Johnson 98 SVT 03 Escape Limited
#1525191 03/13/06 04:15 AM
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how can you really tell if you have a bad clutch, the csvt is the my first manual transmission car.


Black '00 CSVT #4 of 2150 K&N ru-3530, BAT MTF, Magnaflow exhaust, MSDS headers, and optimized y-pipe.
#1525192 03/13/06 04:18 AM
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I personally never liked the SVT clutch. Slipped too easy on me. As soon as the disc would get hot from traffic or something, then try to shift fast after, it would not bite hard at all.

This is not just my car either, before someone jumps down my throat. I drove my friends SVT with much lower mileage and it felt the same as mine.

I have a SPEC Stage I, and I would never go back to the SVT clutch now. Bites hard as hell in any conditions and almost the same feeling in the pedal as the SVT clutch. Not hard to deal with at all.


Tony 1998 SVT Contour (B/MB) #542 3L 1998 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1266 parts car 2000 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1533 3L swap to begin!
#1525193 03/13/06 04:51 AM
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are trans rebuilds really expensive also, should i worry really about the trans holding up?


Black '00 CSVT #4 of 2150 K&N ru-3530, BAT MTF, Magnaflow exhaust, MSDS headers, and optimized y-pipe.
#1525194 03/13/06 11:58 AM
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Originally posted by CSVT1214:
I personally never liked the SVT clutch. Slipped too easy on me. As soon as the disc would get hot from traffic or something, then try to shift fast after, it would not bite hard at all.

This is not just my car either, before someone jumps down my throat. I drove my friends SVT with much lower mileage and it felt the same as mine.

I have a SPEC Stage I, and I would never go back to the SVT clutch now. Bites hard as hell in any conditions and almost the same feeling in the pedal as the SVT clutch. Not hard to deal with at all.




Yeah, but did you buy the car new? I guess I'm asking if you were driving the car with a new clutch at any time. What you are describing is not a normal SVT clutch.
THe SVT clutch grips very well and is still smooth. Mine never slipped until I was using nitrous and got it hot. Then when it cooled down it was fine. Sounds like your clutch is going to me.
It will hold the power of a 3L easily enough but it will probably break down faster on a 3L than an aftermarket.
For a standard run of the mill 3L hybrid I'd say the SVT clutch is perfect.
For the drag racer in you, it won't be even on a 2.5L! THe hard launches take their toll on the springs in the hub of the CSVT clutch. So it depends on your power level and on your driving/racing style.
If you are a regular at the drag strip then I'd put in a heavier duty aftermarket clutch, of which the spec stage 1 seems to be the most popular.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
#1525195 03/13/06 02:28 PM
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
I personally never liked the SVT clutch. Slipped too easy on me. As soon as the disc would get hot from traffic or something, then try to shift fast after, it would not bite hard at all.

This is not just my car either, before someone jumps down my throat. I drove my friends SVT with much lower mileage and it felt the same as mine.

I have a SPEC Stage I, and I would never go back to the SVT clutch now. Bites hard as hell in any conditions and almost the same feeling in the pedal as the SVT clutch. Not hard to deal with at all.




Yeah, but did you buy the car new? I guess I'm asking if you were driving the car with a new clutch at any time. What you are describing is not a normal SVT clutch.
THe SVT clutch grips very well and is still smooth. Mine never slipped until I was using nitrous and got it hot. Then when it cooled down it was fine. Sounds like your clutch is going to me.
It will hold the power of a 3L easily enough but it will probably break down faster on a 3L than an aftermarket.
For a standard run of the mill 3L hybrid I'd say the SVT clutch is perfect.
For the drag racer in you, it won't be even on a 2.5L! THe hard launches take their toll on the springs in the hub of the CSVT clutch. So it depends on your power level and on your driving/racing style.
If you are a regular at the drag strip then I'd put in a heavier duty aftermarket clutch, of which the spec stage 1 seems to be the most popular.





Cooled down, yes it was fine for the most part. Just got really annoying in the summer when I wanted to really get on the car and it would slip on me. I do drive hard so maybe it's just me.

No, I never drove the car new. Mine had 71k when I bought it, and my friends had 53k. Oh well.


Tony 1998 SVT Contour (B/MB) #542 3L 1998 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1266 parts car 2000 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1533 3L swap to begin!
#1525196 03/13/06 02:33 PM
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Originally posted by Big Jim:
Spec 1




Originally posted by CSVT1214:
SPEC Stage I




x3

#1525197 03/13/06 04:18 PM
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Originally posted by Chrisf695:
are trans rebuilds really expensive also, should i worry really about the trans holding up?




In total, I put down about $1800 to get my tranny rebuilt.

Like $400 labor, $200 shipping, and $1200 or so for TH to rebuild and put a Focus tower, "slick shift" forks, and a new slave cylinder.

Add about $600-$800 for an aftermarket diff (which you will need if you have increased power).


Goin' Round Traffic Circles @ 50Km/h!!! \m/ -- 1998 E0 SVT #2119 of 6535 \m/ -- 2003 Sentra SE-R Spec V
#1525198 03/13/06 06:47 PM
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Originally posted by Big Jim:
Spec 2 is harder to live with due to the Kevlar disc that also tends to wear faster.




Have you driven a spec 2? I learned to drive stick on this clutch. Still have it in the car. I'm not sure where you're getting the idea that it is "hard to live with."
It is excellent and very easy to use once you get the hang of it.

Everyone says that the kevlar causes it to slip easier as well, but I don't see this happening on my car yet. Curious as to why some have had good luck with this clutch and some haven't. In fact I think there is only one negative post about this clutch that comes from real world experience.

The rest of the posts on this clutch seem to just be people reiterating that the clutch sucks because it has kevlar, and then they don't back up what they're saying with any real experience or facts...

Last edited by Nate S; 03/13/06 07:09 PM.

1998 T-Red CSVT 3.0L
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