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Yesterday and the day before I was able to operate my car with no problems, but now I can't get my lights to work. I drove off today, tried to turn on my radio, but nothing. Hmm, tried to turn on my dome light, nothing, dammit I blew a fuse. I turned around and when I put on my turn signal, it made a buzzing sound and didn't light, then I pushed the brake, heard a pop, and then had no turn signals either. Hmm, blew another fuse. Got home, checked the two, both were blown, put one in the brake lights, pushed the pedal, it popped. Put a 10A in replacement of the 7.5A for the domelights and it popped right away (I had my door open). What should I check next? I have to go to work now so help me out please. Could it be a relay? I just got done installing underbody neons but the only thing I tapped into was a constant 12V and they still work with both fuses out. Ideas?
BTW: I was driving my car this morning with no problems at all. The only thing I did between was reroute some neon wires to better hide them, all 4 still work though.
Last edited by 00_HO_Contour; 03/08/06 07:37 PM.
Alex
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Originally posted by 00_HO_Contour:
... I just got done installing underbody neons but the only thing I tapped into was a constant 12V and they still work with both fuses out. Ideas?
BTW: I was driving my car this morning with no problems at all. The only thing I did between was reroute some neon wires to better hide them, all 4 still work though.
Remove these and if it doesn't pop any more fuses, you've found the problem.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by 00_HO_Contour:
... I just got done installing underbody neons but the only thing I tapped into was a constant 12V and they still work with both fuses out. Ideas?
BTW: I was driving my car this morning with no problems at all. The only thing I did between was reroute some neon wires to better hide them, all 4 still work though.
Remove these and if it doesn't pop any more fuses, you've found the problem.
Thats kinda what a coworker of mine just said. He told me to remove the brake lights and dome lights and try to trace it that way.
Alex
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Alex
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153 TQ @3000
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149 HP @5900
148 LB FT @4300
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So a quick update before I run into town and buy more fuses. Everything in the interior fuse compartment works except for:
Interior Lights and Power Mirrors
Brake Lamps
Reverse Lights
And in the under hood fuse compartment:
Turn Signal/Hazard
I'm going to go into town and buy a new flasher and some fuses for underhood. The reverse light fuse only blows when I push on the brake pedal which leads me to think one of the screws that I used to hold up the wiring on the bottom of the car cut into the wiring underneith. Well if any of you have any ideas on what I can try please tell me, I'm going into town now and see what I can come up with.
Alex
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Don't buy the flasher yet. You might not be able to return it if it is not the problem.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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I pulled the flasher, put in a few flasher fuse, then the second the flasher comes into contact with its socket, its starts buzzing, and if I leave it in long enough (2 seconds) the fuse pops. I also don't have brake lights when the flasher is out so either the flasher is really f***ed up, or some line is crossed over somewhere that I have no idea where to start looking which still leaves the slight possibility that one of my mounting screws pierced a couple wires.
BTW tony, I disconnected the neons and nothing changed.
Alex
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Originally posted by 00_HO_Contour:
...which still leaves the slight possibility that one of my mounting screws pierced a couple wires.
BTW tony, I disconnected the neons and nothing changed.
Did you disconnect it at the constant 12 volt "tap"?
In addition, as you suspected, check where the screws were mounted to remove the possibility of the wires being pierced.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by 00_HO_Contour:
...which still leaves the slight possibility that one of my mounting screws pierced a couple wires.
BTW tony, I disconnected the neons and nothing changed.
Did you disconnect it at the constant 12 volt "tap"?
In addition, as you suspected, check where the screws were mounted to remove the possibility of the wires being pierced.
Yep, right at the fuse. That was my next step, take my lead tester and try to fish around for anything I can find in those 1/8" screw holes
Alex
00 T-Red/Tan SVTC
#1964/2150
167 HP @6800
153 TQ @3000
Sold-
98 'Tour SE 24V 5-spd
149 HP @5900
148 LB FT @4300
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if your blowing a fuse that means you have a short somewhere.
you have to check for continuity to ground at various points in the circuit isololating that part of the circuit first. put the negative lead on a known good ground. if your ohm meter reads like the segment is open then thats not where the problem is. if you get a resistance reading then its in that section.
since its blowing a fuse its obviosly on the power side of the load between the fuse and the load but remember to isolate it. you will need a wiring diagram probably.
if you need any help just let mne know and ill try to help you best i can online
97 contour gl mtx
front & rear upper strut tower braces
19mm bat sway bar
Koni struts w/GC knockoffs
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