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I got all set to gut my precats this weekend, but found that the spring-loaded studs holding the Y-pipe to the main cat were rusted to hell...the nuts are half gone. They're not going to let the system come apart, but I'm not getting them off without cutting them either.

I went to the dealership to order new studs/nuts today...$120!!! No way. Is there:
A) A cheaper place to order them,
B) An alternative, like using regular bolts (though eliminating the springy thing concerns me about this alternative), or
C) Is it easier to remove the y-pipe/main cat as one?

I'm leaning toward trying C, but I didn't think to look at whether the bolts behind the main car are any easier. Are they? What would I need to replace them with if they must be torched off too?

THANKS....

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Isn't there another flange with regular bolts & studs a little farther back? Right after the main cat IIRC. You might consider unbolting that flange to take the Y assembly down.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
Isn't there another flange with regular bolts & studs a little farther back? Right after the main cat IIRC. You might consider unbolting that flange to take the Y assembly down.




If you have an auto.. yes..


What you need to do is cut off the stock springy bolts, try shooting some liquid wrench or PB plaster on it, then after a day just wrench on them with a socket set and they should start to come loose, if not cut the stock bolts off and use normal ones, they will work fine.


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


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B) Just grab a new new and bolt. Still use the spring though. I'm in the process of doing this right now. I havent decided whether to use M10 x 1.5 x 80 or M12 x 1.75 x 80, mainly because I havent had time for a test fit yet.

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Originally posted by RawBurt:
B) Just grab a new new and bolt. Still use the spring though. I'm in the process of doing this right now. I havent decided whether to use M10 x 1.5 x 80 or M12 x 1.75 x 80, mainly because I havent had time for a test fit yet.




you dont need to use the spring..


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


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I am pretty sure that I used a spring kit from a neon. Not 100% sure thou as it was just in an un-labled bag in my tool box, works perfect thou. I would just go to an auto parts store and look at there spring kits after taking a good look or better yet measurements from yours and go from there, I didn't have to pay for mine but I think it is like $15 for everything.


98 Contour SE 3.0L 5-speed SCT PRP, Gutted IMRC's, Fidanza Flywheel, Race Ported 2004 3.0L Oval Port, Zex 125hp shot, 70mm Mustang TB, 42Lb injectors,Walbro 255 pump, Traction Bars, Zeitronix wideband o2, lots of little things, 10,000K HID's!!
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Originally posted by zrated:
I am pretty sure that I used a spring kit from a neon. Not 100% sure thou as it was just in an un-labled bag in my tool box, works perfect thou. I would just go to an auto parts store and look at there spring kits after taking a good look or better yet measurements from yours and go from there, I didn't have to pay for mine but I think it is like $15 for everything.




You dont need to use a spring..


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


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Please explain why the spring(s) are not necassary?

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If you don't have a flex pipe the Spring bolt setup is what absorbs the Engine movement and such. if you don't use that or a flex pipe there is a chance that over time the weakest part of the exhuast will crack and leak


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