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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 35
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New CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Jay Starling: Alright, this is gonna sound funny, but, does it look like your oil pan seal is leaking. I had the exact same codes, replaced the leaking oil pan gasket, and they are history. If the seal is bas enough, it would equate to the "oil dip stick improperly seated."
Hope this helps.
That's actually one thing that I haven't checked! I'll take a good look in the daylight tomorrow and reply back with the results. Thanks for the idea!
-glenn
"Always workin to pay for the maintenance of my 'tour."
99 CSVT - Superchip, K&N Short Ram Intake, Pro Street 52" Blue Neons, Highs in Lows, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Vortech SC is on the way...
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 35
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2005
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Well, it doesn't appear that the oil pan is leaking. I did the B12 in the intake idea, and while it significantly increased power/responsiveness, the CELs are still there. Going to do the UIM rebuild pretty soon. If that fails, does anyone have any other ideas?
-glenn
"Always workin to pay for the maintenance of my 'tour."
99 CSVT - Superchip, K&N Short Ram Intake, Pro Street 52" Blue Neons, Highs in Lows, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Vortech SC is on the way...
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 35
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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well, i did a tune up and was looking more closely under the car for leaks. Turns out the oil pan gasket is definitely blown. (couldn't see it from the front of the car, but on the side it's leaking below the timing belts.) so how hard is it to change? I know the y pipe will have to come off, but do i need to buy anything else besidesthe oil pan gasket? tia
-glenn
"Always workin to pay for the maintenance of my 'tour."
99 CSVT - Superchip, K&N Short Ram Intake, Pro Street 52" Blue Neons, Highs in Lows, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Vortech SC is on the way...
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,119
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OP
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lol Nice hi-jacking of my post.
Anyway. If that solves your problem let me know. I haven't gotten any time to work on my tour. I've just been driving it the way it is. I just really haven't had any spare time. College = Death to sanity.
1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX
Ebay intake with K&N Filter
Trubendz Exhaust
Custom Hood
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 10
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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You'll need a 13 MM wrench, deep well sockets, LOTS of PB Blaster (or equivalent) for the Y pipe bolts. You'll need the 13 MM wrench for the bolt between the engine and the subfame by the dampener. I actually didn't pull the Y pipe, I unbolted the Y from the precats and supported it at about a 15 to 20 degree angle. You can't just let it hang or you will risk breaking the flex tube (if you have one). Whole process took me a day, but I took my good sweet time and cleaned the pan, and really enjoyed working on the car. I'm one of those sicko's that does car repair as a hobby anyway. If I would have been trying just to get it done, it probably would have taken me about 2 ~ 3 hours. I can not stress enough that you HAVE to get the old gasket material off of the pan and the engine block. I have seen lots of folks not do that and then the new seal leaks right away.... Carb cleaner and a rag works wonders on old gaskets.
BTW, it looks like the oil was getting up on the O2 sensors. Once I cleaned the O2 sensors by wiping them down with simple green and fixed the leak, walla, no more codes.
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 35
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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awsome post, thanks for the info! I plan on completing it next weekend, and will post the results. thanks again
-glenn
"Always workin to pay for the maintenance of my 'tour."
99 CSVT - Superchip, K&N Short Ram Intake, Pro Street 52" Blue Neons, Highs in Lows, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Vortech SC is on the way...
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