Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting For the love of God.

I've got the same codes. Have you taken a can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner and sprayed around for a vacuum leak? Mine ended up being one of the two vacuum lines that go into the UIM. I broke that tube off before and got a new one, and I believe I broke the little o-ring around it as well. When I hit it with carb cleaner, it stalled out the engine. Thats how you'll find the leak.

I'm betting vacuum leak, which would suck because you've bought all kinds of other stuff trying to fix it.

Good Luck "Zero Hour"
I've had the same problem for months as well. How is your gas mileage? Mine is about 19 mpg.
I haven't tried the DPFE sensor yet myself. I do know my ERG solonoid is stuck open.
I had two different techs check for vacuum leaks-no go.
I've checked for it myself 5 times with no sucess.
My 95 Zetec has a new:
IAC valve
PCV
Plugs
Wires
Coil
The list goes on and on.
I might soon give up and take it to FORD.
OH yes, did I mention no CEL's?
Unreal.

Not everything I bought was on trying to fix it. plugs and wires were due. Not so much wires, but the plugs for one were single plats, and they were shot to [censored]. My original Idle problem was the IAC. It wouldn't work until the motor was warm. I had to stay on the gas until the engine warmed up. When I replace the IAC problem gone.

I just check the PCV and found it to be in need of replacing.

The EGR gasket was like 2 bucks...

The Waterpump belt was crap.

I really haven't spent money where it wasn't due.



I do need to check the vac lines on the top of the manifold. I go back to school tomorrow and I'm only on right now because I'm taking a break from school work.

I'll have to wait until next week.

Yep, same problem for 9+ months. I have done everything suggested on the boards with the exception of UIM rebuild. I'm hoping the gurus see this thread and have some more ideas

Here's my list to add to the others:

New:
IAC valve
PCV
Plugs
Wires
Coil
hoses with clamps on every end
EGR
Spark plugs (last month)
Fuel Filter
New 02 Sensors, all of them
etc, etc, etc

cleaned MAF a billion times, just today I sprayed an entire can of Carb Cleaner around UIM, hoses, looking for leaks. Not even a stutter...

Car runs great, idles low occasionally, but never stalls. All the lights dim frequently (low RPMs or gunning it).

I would like to know if anyone has had this code from a fuel system issue? My car has really low miles, but I've never changed the fuel pump. It's really responsive when revved, but seems to not have the power it did when I had my super chip installed. (took it out 2 mnths back to ensure it wasn't causing the code) So, any fuel problems caused this code? What about dimming lights? TIA

Does the battery charge light come one at all?

For the dimming lights, check battery and alternator.
Battery test. Engine off, lights on for one minute. Then voltage should be 12 to 12.5.

Alternator test. Engine running, voltage across battery terminals should be 14 to 14.5.

In addition check wiring from battery to ground and battery to alternator.

There are also some wires which go under the battery.

Originally posted by SetiRich:

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Ok, it's 2.5 years later, and I had the problem again...bye-the-way, I fixed it the first time...

There is a small black wire that loops up between the battery & the air filter box. This small wire attaches to a connector at one end, and seems to follow the "main" positive wire to where-ever it goes...haven't followed it.

The end that connects to the connector...is in with a group of wires that comes off the "secondary" positive terminal...this is sort of an extension to the main terminal. Both the pos & neg have these "secondary" connection posts...I guess because they needed more places to connect things close to the battery.

Anyway, the small black wire keeps coming out of the connector end. It's a PIA to get at...you have to remove the battery & battery box. Last time it just seemed to stick in there, so I left it. This time, I'm taking the battery stuff out and fixing it "for good".

I figure this must be something going to the solinoid, since there is no clicking or anything when this is out...and all light's, are great. New battery too...whenever it just doesn't start, I push it back into the connector & off I go for another 5-6 months. Guess it's nice weather again so time to fix it right.

Rich

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I've never seen the battery light (except when all the lights come on at start up) I checked the voltage today and think it's ok. I'm gonna check the alternator tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions. Any thoughts on the lean codes?

I'm having very similar issues. I've had a lean code for one of the banks only, and one of the O2 sensors from the same bank. I then cleared the codes, and drove for a full day before getting another one. The code then said I was getting too much air through my intake, which basically means I'm running lean still. I will go through and check my intake for any leaks, and clean the MAF. But I have a feeling it's something else. Come to think of it, this happened after checking my oil...I can only hope that is the problem.

After chasing down vacuum leaks, etc. I finally got rid of the lean codes when I blasted the injectors with tons of cleaner. Injectors that are slightly dirty will not deliver the fuel it needs. This will make the engine knock a bit too because lean mixtures detonate instead of producing a smooth flame travel. My car will once again run on 87 without fussing. I used 2 cans of B-12 at once and one more later when I noticed it was helping.

please give me details on how to clean the injectors. I am desperate and will gladly try it!!!

Thanks

Alright, this is gonna sound funny, but, does it look like your oil pan seal is leaking. I had the exact same codes, replaced the leaking oil pan gasket, and they are history. If the seal is bas enough, it would equate to the "oil dip stick improperly seated."

Hope this helps.