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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 893
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 893 |
Originally posted by bensenvill:
Originally posted by Tourgasm:
That's pretty interesting. How fast do those boats move?
but that boat had a 32hp configuration [and was pushing 2000amps at 36volts], so I imagine it was pretty damn quick.
Is that on solar power? damn. How much room does all that gear take up? Could you power anything else with it? say a moped or gokart? Sorry for all the questions, I'm sure I sound like the annoying neighbor on "Home Alone"
98.5 SVT FOR SALE
$5000
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 359
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 359 |
Originally posted by Tourgasm:
Is that on solar power? damn. How much room does all that gear take up? Could you power anything else with it? say a moped or gokart? Sorry for all the questions, I'm sure I sound like the annoying neighbor on "Home Alone"
yes that is solar powered [hence why its a solar boat]. The panels arent on the boat on that photo. Our competitions limit us to a max of 480watts for the panels. So depending on how much you want to drop on solar cells [we hand make our own panels because commercial ones are way too heavy and dont put out enough power] can range from about 50 cells to 400 cells.
and yes, you can use them to power gokarts or whatever.
about how much room the equipment takes up... all of it. The older boat is 15' long and 2.5' at its widest. The newer boat is 17' long and ~3.5' at its widest. The boat was made just big enough to house one person [uncompfortably], upwards of 86 pounds of batteries [or as little as 36], 2 motors, 2 motor controllers, 7 data logging and control micro computers, one touchscreen dash, and a fish finder. Remember the only reason this boat works/flys [it has ranked as high as 2nd in the world], is because of its obnoxious low weight. The most common configuration totals 300 pounds for everything [including myself]. Fully loaded sitting in the water, the top of the hull is only about an inch and a half above the waterline... needless to say, that doesnt make a difference once you start moving [the hull is literally only used as landing gear].
yes... I am a cougar owner trolling on your board.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,150
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,150 |
The carbon fiber was really freaking out that day! It loves direct sunlight! - It almost looks like the hood is photoshopped on! - JOE
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,292
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,292 |
Originally posted by blu_fuz:
The carbon fiber was really freaking out that day! It loves direct sunlight! - It almost looks like the hood is photoshopped on! - JOE
..the whole thing just looks out of place..i think cause of the mirrors and the shadow and bright spots they create,kinda "against" what you expect to see outside... 
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 492
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 492 |
Originally posted by bensenvill:
Originally posted by skifast87:
if it were me and i was going to buy a hood. i would buy a carbon fiber one. only because they seem to have less of a cracking issue. dont get me wrong they BOTH CRACK just CF seems to hold up better. if its color your worried about i know they do make it in different shades. however it is not all one color.
carbon fiber is in such short supply now that your paying enough of a price premium just for the regular stuff, once you start getting into the color weaves or metalics the price absolutely skyrockets.
about cracking. I dont know alot about how carbon fiber car parts are fabricated but I have made 2 carbon fiber boat hulls. That 4x4 weave carbon fiber you are use to seeing used for hoods is probably part of the reason for cracking... it is purely used for astetics [as opposed to other varieties. although I am unsure if they just use it for the top layer or if all ply's are weaves]. The plain-jane twill is the material that should be used for hoods. it is noticibly lighter and stronger [but very ugly]. the weave stuff is what you would typically use for highly contoured shapes [not generally flat areas].
also for our hulls we would include one or 2 layers of kevlar, which was primarily used to help prevent hull punctures. which in our unscientific testing, held up much better to damage. if you are really worried about cracking, you should be able to ask for a layer of kevlar to be added because it doesnt change the fabrication process.
[I also want to add that I think the CF hoods availible are BS, 12 pounds for a hood is way too much for the square footage. my last hull weighed in at 20 pounds for a 17' long enclosed hull, which included the cockpit and my seat]
Lest we forget all the layers of carbon and kevlar will not stop cracking. I believe that is a function of the resin used. Kevlar is not stiff at all, but it provides good abrasion and puncture resistance. Carbon is very stiff if you use the right weave. You can use a stronger weave on the inned layers and put a layer or two of bi-directional cloth on top for asthetic purposes. Kevlar does nothing for a hood except give it a different color. I'll have to double check this, but I think if it's any color but black it is not carbon but a dyed fiberglass or kevlar. I'll look now.
Jim T
"Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats".--H.L. Mencken
Bumper sticker,
OXYMORON #65 - Liberal Thinker
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 150
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 150 |
For some, the bare CF on the exterior of the car is probably a similar taste to black wheels. Personally I think the patchwork look it gives the car isn't an improvement at all and is likely a rationalization for not wanting to spend any more money on paint. Let's face it the weight of the paint isn't really worth considering on one panel but the cost could be. However, in it's defense, the CF is an option when you need to shave some weight, or have a damaged panel to replace, so why not use CF. I have a painted to match CF hood (and yes the good stuff costs) it's just for shows and events. The steel one is dented and beat up from the 100 mi a day daily driving (not to mention NFS runs) so I'll continue to let it get a beating. I would not expect a CF hood to stand up to that, so I don't use it that way.
For those that have to debate it and compare it to the equivelant in gained HP, that's a way to find the best way to put it in a negative light. The major body panels like the boot and hood/bonett are the quickest, easiest things to replace in order to reduce weight. And, it leaves the car a more complete, functional package that way, rather than gutting the interior or something......what's the combined weight saving in the hood/trunk? I'm guessing Probably 35-50 lbs. You can take that and equate it to horsepower if you like but I'm good with the simple FACT that THOSE pounds are gone. No calculations necessary, you just shaved 35-50 lbs and it isn't a mod that requires tuning, dyno, or challenges your ability to pass emissions, or reduces your seating capacity because you gutted your interior etc, etc. I say using CF is smart.
Dezert Focus Member and Fan of all Euro-Fords.
Once driven to the Darkside, there's no turning back.
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