Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications 3.0L Duratec I'm probably going to be lynched for asking this..

So I've decided to just stick with the 3.0L swap and work from there. I've read, and I've read, and I've read some more. It will never end... But to the point, I have a 99 SE and I am curious of how much will it cost to do the 3.0L swap, who could/would do it and how much $ total, and would it be best to just buy a 3.0L transmission as well. I would much like to put a manual transmission just to have fun while driving, but I could cope with an automatic no problem if I need to do such. I read about 2.5 trannys being used, but I don't know. I want to have a set-up that I can rely on so I don't have to worry about transmission faults or anything of that sort. I still feel stupid for asking this, but I couldn't handle much more reading and nothing I read was answering my question. So I guess, in essence, the price of a 3.0L swap with an auto to manual conversion and all the other stuff that has to be done when doing the swap. Like I said, I can handle not having a manual tranny if the cost is much higher than keeping it auto and doing the neccessary tranny mods. I looked at all those neat places to get engines and things and I found some cheap engines and manual transmissions for my swap. I just need the cost of labor and stuff like that. This is semi-short term goal for my Contour. It seems to be rather cheap and worth the price of it all. I'd do it myself, but I've never done it before and I simply don't trust myself with a hammer let alone doing this to my car. Thoughts, suggestions, advice, and all that jazz would be great. Thanks.

you see that edit button...you still have time,push it!!!!

There's not room for a 3 liter transmission. The 2.5 liter one is big enough already. Where ya gonna fit the extra half-liter?

For the engine swap itself, expect to pay between $500-$1200 depending on the shops in your area. Rebuild the engine yourself and you can have it done for under a grand if you're good at finding deals.

As for the manual conversion, unless you find a manual car in the wrecking yard to pull ALL of the parts from and do all of the work yourself it's not going to be cost effective at all. You need everything from the car, including the trans, subframe, cables, shift tower, etc... You could easily buy another Manual Contour SE for the same price as the used parts plus labor would cost you...

The Taurus trans is completely different. It probably won't fit in a Copntour. It isn't a great trans either, but it is stronger, as it is also used with the SHO and the V8 Continental.

The Escape uses the same trans as the Contour. It isn't really that much different than the Contour trans. Our resident Contour auto trans expert (unisis12) hasn't posted for a while, but he could probably help you learn how to get the most out of it. Just don't expect too much, especially if you are likely to abuse it.

Here's what I remember overall from my ATX days.

1. Fluid quality & longevity is the most important thing. CD4Es *cook* their fluid in average use. Replace it on time, every time. This is what I think bites most of us in the butt...I, for example, bought my '95 ATX from a second owner who didn't have records (I know, I took a chance), so I never knew if/when the fluid was changed. I was on borrowed time when my transmission was replaced (miraculously, it was the garage's fault so they paid for it).

2. The single most valuable thing you can do for your transmission next to rigidly following the service schedule is install an auxiliary transmission cooler. It's easy and cheap...mine cost $100 to have the shop do while they replaced the tranny.

3. You can help keep overheating and unusual wear down/out by not treating your ATX like an MTX. No burnouts, neutral drops, gear holding, or Reverse/Drive changes while rolling.

4. I believe that the CD4E *can* handle a 3L conversion if it's in good shape and these three steps are followed. Obviously, it's working in lots and lots and lots of Escapes with 200hp/200tq engines.

Slushbox+3L=dead car

i dont think its all about how long it'll last,obv it can handle the power..its about how much power it robs...sure it'll still be quicker than a 2.5 tour,but not worth the effort/money